Introducing: The Archi Works × AVW The Diplomat 1.87
Even if you’re only mildly interested in vintage watches, you’ve probably heard of Amsterdam Vintage Watches and its fearless owner, Jasper “King of Vintage” Lijfering. As the second-generation owner of the family business, he has taken it to the next level with extensive social media and YouTube content — and, above all, by establishing himself as an authority on vintage (Rolex) watches. His videos and campaigns are often witty, but the watches he sells are dead serious. I’ve known Jasper for many years and think highly of his expertise and achievements.
A collab by vintage watch experts
Today, Paris-based microbrand Archi Works, founded by Richard D. Ménasé, and Amsterdam Vintage Watches introduce two versions of The Diplomat ref. 1.87, each limited to 100 pieces. AVW and Archi Works bring years of experience in the (vintage) watch world, and it shows in the watch’s specifications. They seem to have made all the right choices regarding the case size, shape, finish, dial details, and even the Saffiano leather straps.
The necessary stuff
But first, the essentials. We’re looking at a 35mm watch with a 10.05mm profile (including the 1.4mm crystal) and a 19mm lug spacing. Inside is a hand-wound La Joux Perret D100 movement based on the famous Peseux 7001. This 18-jewel caliber offers a 50-hour power reserve and ticks at 21,600 vph. Archi Works and AVW opted for the Soigné-grade D100, with Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges, sunburst-finished bevels, polished wheels, and blue screws.
You can admire the movement through the transparent case back. The beveled back lists the names of those involved (including “King of Vintage”), gives the watch’s name and reference, and notes its 50m water resistance.
Sleek design
I particularly enjoy this watch’s sleek, elongated lugs, the mid-case’s subtle brushed finish, and the thin, sloping, polished bezel. The slender, pointed lugs curve elegantly downward, giving the watch a refined profile. I also love the drilled lug holes, a distinctly vintage-inspired touch. They weren’t necessary with the Molequin straps’ quick-release bars, but they look just right.
The Diplomat Aurora and Azure
I saved what I think is the best for last. The two available dials are truly special. First is the Aurora version, featuring a cream-colored base with eight lab-grown brilliant-cut diamonds and three lab-grown emerald baguettes as hour markers. Starting at the dial’s outer edge and moving toward the center, you’ll see a light yellow minute track and a separate railway-style chapter ring.
Aurora edition
The diamond hour markers sit on a silver chapter ring. At 6 o’clock, slightly overlapping that ring, is a sub-seconds register. Its center matches the minute track and railway-style minute track. Just above it, “Amsterdam Vintage Watches” follows the sub-dial’s curve. Between the 12 o’clock marker and the center pinion, two lines read “Archi Works” and “Fab. Suisse.”
Azure edition
Then, there’s the Azure model, also limited to 100 pieces. Instead of emerald baguettes, it features faceted sapphire ones. And while the Aurora has warm, yellowish tones on its rings and sub-dial, the Azure uses gray, matching the silver chapter ring but in a slightly darker shade. Both the Azure and Aurora feature beautiful leaf hands that perfectly suit the mid-century aesthetic of The Diplomat ref. 1.87. If you’re wondering where the reference number comes from, it’s a nod to Amsterdam Vintage Watches’ founding year — 1987.
Initial impressions of The Diplomat
When Jasper sent me the press images, my first reaction was simply, “Wow.” After examining every detail of The Diplomat, I concluded that Archi Works and AVW have gotten it right. The devil is in the details, and these guys clearly understood that.
Each Archi Works × AVW The Diplomat 1.87 retails for €2,250 (excluding VAT) and is available to order now, exclusively through the Archiwatch website. This isn’t a pre-order; the watches will ship next week.
