With the new Serpenti and Octo Finissimo models stealing much of the limelight this week in Dubai, the Bvlgari Diva’s Dream collection has floated under the radar. But no longer. Here we give this concise range of jewelry watches their due.

Although I don’t wear much jewelry above the wrist, I never tire of seeing such time-honored techniques applied to watches. For many years now, I’ve been critical of brands covering men’s models in diamonds and passing them off as women’s watches. I find it lazy, at best, insulting at worst. We’re seeing more and more brands acknowledge misguided pasts (albeit quietly) by creating genuinely exciting watches for women. The Bvlgari Diva’s Dream collection appears simple on the surface, but all is not as it seems. One of the three novelties — the Diva’s Dream Finissima Minute Repeater Malachite — is powered by caliber BVL362 — the world’s thinnest minute repeater.

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The best of both worlds

Installing such a movement is pretty significant for a collection one would not expect to move mechanical mountains. But here we are. While the other two references — the Peacock (103263) and the Lapis Lazuli (103261) — are simple time-only watches (one automatic and one quartz), both bring Bvlgari’s mastery of stonework, unusual materials, and gem-setting to the fore. The Finissima Minute Repeater Malachite combines the best of both worlds and must surely be a frontrunner for one of the women’s watches of the year (and I’m saying that in January, full of confidence it will bear out).

Is there a downside? Well, maybe, but that depends on the combination of your bank balance and 100 meter PB. The Bvlgari Finissima Minute Repeater Malachite (reference 103282) will be limited to just ten pieces available worldwide.

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Rare beasts in the wild

It does seem a shame that spotting one of these in the wild will be almost impossible as a result. What might help propel the field of women’s watches to the next level is a few more real-world ambassadors to spread the word. With so few exemplary examples of Haute Horlogerie explicitly designed for women floating around the globe, it is tough for female fans to get a hands-on experience of the best pieces made with them in mind.

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At 37mm wide and 9.2mm thick, the self-winding Peacock model offers a 42-hour power reserve with an operating frequency of 28,800vph. The 18-karat white gold case is set with diamonds (1.62 carats) on the bezel and lugs. A pink tourmaline cabochon topping the crown. The dial is made from a genuine Peacock feather (which I assume was willingly donated to the cause).

The 30mm wide Lapis Lazuli model is a very slender 6.85mm tall. It is so slim thanks to the high-precision quartz module keeping track of the time. The rose gold case is adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds (0.94 carats), and water-resistant to 30m.

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336 diamonds

Remarkably, the Bvlgari Diva’s Dream Finissima Minute Repeater is 9.4mm when cased up. That’s thanks to the 3.12mm movement beating away inside the 37mm, 18-karat white gold case. That case is set with brilliant-cut diamonds. In total, 336 diamonds, amounting to 4 carats, are used in the decoration of the case. With such a sparkling showing, Bvlgari once again underpins its status as one of the leading horological jewelers. Learn more about the craftsmanship behind these pieces here.