Roaring Through The Space Age With The Direnzo DRZ 08 Cosmonaire GMT
Direnzo introduces the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire as its first GMT watch. Conceived for travel, it pairs a second time zone with a distinctive case. The design, which includes an elliptical bezel and a layered dial, draws from the height of the Space Age and makes this watch feel equally ready for intercontinental travel and daily wear.
Though Direnzo is a new name here on Fratello, the Geneva-based brand, will celebrate its 10th anniversary next year. Founded in 2017 by architect Sergio Godoy Di Renzo, the marque focuses on watches inspired by classic cars and planes. It’s no surprise, then, that the new Cosmonaire takes its cues from the optimistic, futuristic Space Age. In fact, the name “Cosmonaire” joins the cosmos and the traveler. While we enjoy the name, the design lends these watches a unique, elegant character that’s classy enough to wear daily and suitable for travel.
The Direnzo DRZ 08 Cosmonaire
Today’s release encompasses a lineup of six watches. Five employ a 39 × 46mm polished 316L stainless steel case with an 800HV scratch-resistant coating. A PVD-coated gold-tone model is also available. We’ll come to the variants shortly, but let’s work through the common specifications. All versions feature a domed sapphire crystal with an antireflective coating. Even with this, the 10mm total thickness is reasonable. The watches also have a useful 100m water resistance rating. A five-row bracelet with a blend of polished and brushed links is standard, while leather straps with butterfly clasps are available as options.
Far from a typical dress watch, the Cosmonaire has a rounded case with an aerodynamic silhouette. From the side, the lugs show barreled ends, a design I wish more brands would use instead of the typical cropped look. Overall, the theme recalls industrial designs of the 1960s and 1970s. With its elliptical bezel, the watch’s appearance changes with the viewing angle, and the flowing profile gives the case a sculptural quality. Despite all the flourishes, the result is a wearable piece that doesn’t feel anonymous.
A multilayered dial
Beneath the sapphire crystal and just above the dial, an underlying subtly bowl-shaped surface draws the eye to the center. Four long, triangular applied hour markers add depth. Cooler still, an engraved ring filled with blue-emitting Super-LumiNova sits below the domed crystal’s edge, creating a luminous frame in low light. All versions have dagger-shaped 12-hour, minute, and 24-hour hands. The former two have a Super-LumiNova filling. A sweeping second hand has a ’60s design with a luminous circular counterweight.
In the center of most of the dials, we find a laser-engraved, lacquer-coated panier pattern, which reflects light as the wrist turns. Six variants offer different colors and treatments. Direnzo pairs blue, brown, and green dials with the regular stainless steel case and a brown dial with a gold-PVD-coated case and bracelet. There’s also a 60-piece limited edition available a heat-treated Muonionalusta meteorite dial.
A collaboration with Isotope in the collection
One visit to a watch show reveals that this is a rather close-knit industry. It turns out that Sergio Di Renzo is a good friend of José Miranda, the founder of the well-known brand Isotope. This spawned a desire to come together and create a collaborative piece as part of the Cosmonaire introduction. The result is the Isotope × Direnzo limited edition, which uses a gray dial, white Super-LumiNova, and heat-blued steel hands. This piece, with its vertically brushed dial, is limited to 40 pieces.
The Sellita SW330-2 inside
An automatic Elaboré-grade Sellita SW330-2 powers the Cosmonaire. This movement has a 28,800vph frequency and a 56-hour power reserve. Functionally, the caliber is considered a “caller” GMT with an adjustable 24-hour hand.
Pricing and availability
Considering its distinctive design, one might expect the Cosmonaire to be pricey. Thankfully, that’s not the case. Pre-sale pricing starts at CHF 1,200 for the standard models and will rise to CHF 1,250 at retail. The Isotope × Direnzo and meteorite limited editions list at CHF 1,350 pre-sale and CHF 1,400 retail. As a bonus, US orders will ship from a local distributor, so there are no import duties for US customers. Orders for other countries will ship from Switzerland.
The Cosmonaire is an interesting offering among small, independent brands. Whereas most independents use traditional case designs and dials, these pieces bring something different at affordable prices. Then, the Isotope collaboration brings two smaller brands together. All variants also combine refreshingly different dial architecture and sculptural details.
The Direnzo DRZ 08 Cosmonaire collection will launch on November 21st at 15:00 CET. Particularly if you’re interested in picking up one of the limited editions, I’d suggest noting that date and time down on your calendar. For more information, visit the official Direnzo website.
