Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past
Rolex has added a rather unexpected complication to its Perpetual collection with the new Perpetual Padellone. Taking its name from the vintage reference 8171, the watch combines a 39mm case with an annual calendar and a moonphase display. At first glance, it is perhaps the dial that grabs your attention, particularly the blue enamel moonphase disc with its meteorite representations of the full and new moon.
Look closer, however, and the more interesting story is underneath the dial. Rolex has developed a new movement, caliber 7190, with an annual-calendar mechanism that distinguishes between 30- and 31-day months and advances the day, date, and month simultaneously at midnight. It is a distinctly different proposition from the brand’s more familiar sports watches, and one that puts Rolex’s recent movement development firmly in the spotlight. Let’s take a closer look.
Rolex Ref. 8171, Padellone
Rolex Perpetuelle Padellone
Rolex has introduced the Perpetual Padellone, a new complete calendar watch that draws its name and general design language from one of the company’s vintage references. The inspiration is reference 8171, produced from the late 1940s into the early 1950s and known among collectors as the “Padellone.” That watch was notable for its relatively large case and calendar display, including the day, date, month, and moonphase.
The new model revisits that combination of calendar functions in a considerably more technically elaborate form. Rather than reproducing the vintage watch, Rolex has used its visual characteristics as a starting point for a modern Perpetual collection model. The 39mm case, domed and fluted bezel, and restrained dial layout recall the proportions and aesthetic of the original reference, while the movement introduces a new annual-calendar mechanism and a fully visible moonphase display.
Rolex 1908 with the Settimo bracelet
The Padellone is also only the second watch to join Rolex’s Perpetual collection, which began with the Perpetual 1908 in 2023. Like the 1908, the new model places particular emphasis on the movement, which can be viewed through a transparent case back
The Facts: Rolex Perpetual Padellone
The Rolex Perpetual Padellone measures 39mm in diameter and is available in 18-karat Everose gold or 950 platinum. The case has curved lines and a bezel whose upper section is domed while the lower portion is finely fluted. Rolex uses a combination of surface treatments on the dial, with a grained finish in the center and a satin finish around the perimeter.
There are three configurations. The first combines an 18K Everose gold case with an intense white, grained dial and a Settimo bracelet in matching gold.
A second version uses 950 platinum with an ice-blue-grained dial and a matte-black alligator leather strap. The third returns to Everose gold and the intense white dial, but pairs the watch with a brown alligator leather strap.
The Settimo bracelet consists of rows of seven small, slightly curved links and was first introduced on the Perpetual 1908 in 2025.
Caliber 7190
At the center of the watch is the new caliber 7190, an automatic movement developed and manufactured by Rolex. It operates at 5Hz and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Its architecture incorporates a Syloxi silicon hairspring, a ceramic balance staff, and the Dynapulse escapement. Rolex states that the movement is covered by 30 patent applications, with two specifically relating to the Padellone.
Moonphase
The main complication is a complete annual calendar with moonphase. Day and month are displayed in apertures at 12 o’clock, while a blue hand points to the date around the outer section of the dial. The moonphase is shown by a blue enamel disc making one rotation every 29.53 days. Full and new moons are represented by meteorite elements, with the new moon receiving a dark blue PVD treatment. Both carry faces, a reference to the celestial display of the original Padellone.
Close-up of the calendar function of calibre 7190
The calendar uses Rolex’s patented Haplos system to distinguish between 30- and 31-day months. It’s leaving only one manual correction each year, on March 1st. The day, date, and month also change simultaneously at midnight rather than sequentially. Four correctors in the case allow the calendar and moonphase indications to be adjusted independently.
First Impression
The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is a very welcome surprise! The 1908 with the Settimo bracelet was a Fratello team favorite. But with this new watch, I think we can all agree we have shifted our preference to the Perpetual Padellone. Almost ten years ago, we witnessed the introduction of the Cellini Moonphase. We followed it with great interest, wondering whether it would ever return to the 1908. Rolex made it even more interesting by using its latest Dynapulse movement. The high-frequency Dynapulse movement was introduced last year in the new Land-Dweller collection and is very similar in construction to what we see here today.
My preferred configuration? The Everose gold version with the Settimo bracelet, of course. Prices start at CHF 52,500 for the Rolex Everose gold Perpetual Padellone on leather strap (reference 53505-0002). CHF59,000 for the version in platinum on a leather strap (reference 53506-0002). And finally, CHF 64,800 for the Everose gold version with the Settimo bracelet (53505-0003).
More information via the official Rolex website.
