Introducing: Two New Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Watches With Tuxedo Dials

Vacheron Constantin introduces two new stainless steel additions to its Fiftysix collection. The 40mm offerings include a Self-Winding model with a date display and a Complete Calendar featuring day, month, moonphase, and pointer-date indications.

First launched in 2018, the Fiftysix collection draws inspiration from mid-century watchmaking. Specifically, Vacheron Constantin cites the 1956 reference 6073 as its muse. That watch introduced distinctive lugs inspired by the brand’s Maltese Cross emblem and a boxed crystal profile that remains influential today.

The modern Fiftysix translates those elements into a contemporary 40mm package. For 2026, Vacheron Constantin adds a fresh twist through new gray dégradé dials. Their contrasting sectors evoke the tones of vintage film cameras and hi-fi equipment from the era. The layout, often referred to as a tuxedo dial, suits Vacheron’s entry-level Fiftysix particularly well.

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding

Let’s start with the Fiftysix Self-Winding. The dial immediately stands out through its multiple textures and shades of gray.

The outer minute track adopts a silvery tone with subtle concentric graining and precise black markings. Moving inward, the hour sector features a darker gray sunburst finish. Applied 18K white gold Arabic numerals mark the even hours, while lumed baton indexes occupy the odd positions. A white intermediate ring helps reinforce the tuxedo aesthetic and provides a secondary scale for timekeeping.

At 3 o’clock, the date display bridges two sectors of the dial while remaining neatly centered within the white band. The central portion has an opaline gray dégradé finish, giving it a slightly smoky appearance.

The Vacheron Constantin signature and Maltese cross sit proudly beneath 12 o’clock. Matching 18K white gold hands feature blue Super-LumiNova for improved low-light visibility.

Overall, the Fiftysix Self-Winding achieves an appealing balance between traditional design and contemporary execution. The case also receives subtle updates. While previous Fiftysix models favored fully polished surfaces, these new watches introduce greater contrast. Vertically brushed lugs, polished bevels, a polished bezel, and horizontally brushed case flanks create a richer visual experience.

Turning the watch over reveals caliber 1326 through a sapphire display. Developed by fellow Richemont manufacturer ValFleurier and subsequently finished by Vacheron Constantin, the movement features Geneva stripes, perlage, snailing, and a skeletonized 22K pink gold rotor shaped around the Maltese cross.

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar

The Complete Calendar follows the same design philosophy but reverses the color arrangement.

Here, the central portion adopts the darker gray dégradé finish and houses the calendar displays. Day and month indications appear through rectangular apertures on the dial’s upper half, while a moonphase display, with an 18K white gold moon set against a black sky, sits on the dial’s lower portion.

A white minute track surrounds the center, followed by the light gray hour sector with a sunburst finish. Applied numerals and lumed indexes mirror the Self-Winding model’s layout. Around the dial’s perimeter sits the black pointer-date track, finished with concentric graining and crisp white numerals.

Despite the monochromatic palette, the dial feels surprisingly bold. Keeping the moonphase display within the same grayscale theme was a particularly wise decision. A splash of color would likely have disrupted the overall harmony.

The complete calendar, often referred to as a triple calendar, has been one of Vacheron Constantin’s signature complications since the 1940s. Power comes from the manufacture caliber 2460 QCL/1.

The movement offers a 40-hour power reserve and carries the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal. Decoration includes many of the same finishing techniques found on the Self-Winding, complemented by a beautifully executed 22K pink gold rotor. Due to the additional complications, the case grows to 11.6mm thick, compared to 9.6mm for the Self-Winding. Small, polished, recessed correctors on the case flank allow individual calendar adjustments.

Final thoughts, specs, and pricing

I find these new Fiftysix models absolutely gorgeous. The tuxedo-dial treatment feels perfectly suited to the collection, and the alternating shades of gray deliver retro-modern styling without looking overly nostalgic. Pleasingly, the anthracite nubuck calfskin straps complement the dials very well too. Ecru stitching provides a subtle contrast while reinforcing the vintage-inspired feel. A stainless steel butterfly clasp completes the package. Finally, while the Fiftysix remains an elegant everyday watch, its dressier nature is reflected in its modest 30m water resistance rating.

The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding costs £12,600, and the Fiftysix Complete Calendar retails for £30,000. You can learn more on the Vacheron Constantin website.