Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph

Around 1990, one of my friends was lucky enough to receive an Ebel Sport Classic watch for his birthday. At the time, I was more focused on Swatch and Casio, and I knew nothing about Ebel other than that its watches looked cool. It wasn’t until a few years later, when my interest in mechanical watches grew, that I realized Ebel was a major player. Back then, it would have been unthinkable that Ebel would be where it is today. It was a huge name, and it’s almost scary to think this could happen to a brand with such a reputation.

Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph

Ebel was probably one of the first brands to secure a product placement deal with a TV show in the 1980s. In Miami Vice, starting with season 2, the cast wore Ebel watches. Don Johnson, in his role as Sonny Crockett, wore a gold 1985 El Primero-powered chronograph with the matching wave bracelet. I also noticed that some guests on the show wore Ebel watches, such as Phil Collins in the show’s second season in 1985.

Clever marketing

Ebel applied clever marketing during those years, also banking on tennis tournaments, such as the Davis Cup. Players like Boris Becker, Stefan Edberg, Yannick Noah, and Andre Agassi all wore Ebel watches.

Powered by Zenith

Just like the Davis Cup, Ebel is in a different place today. But that doesn’t make Ebel watches from the 1980s and 1990s any less interesting. On the contrary! As you probably know, Ebel sourced its chronograph movement for the Sport Classic Chronograph from Zenith. According to Rick Denney, one of our commenters and a respected contributor to the WatchUSeek platform, Ebel began buying some of the El Primero movements that Zenith had stocked and used them for the Sport Classic Chronograph. For the first batch of Sport Classic Chronographs, Ebel used the Zenith 3019PHC movement. In 1986, Zenith restarted production of the El Primero movement with the caliber 40.0. Ebel switched to this caliber the same year and then Zenith’s caliber 400 in later production years. Again, thanks to Rick Denney for all this information. Unfortunately, Ebel itself doesn’t provide many historical insights.

Zenith El Primero movement

The El Primero caliber 400 high-beat (36,000vph/5Hz) column-wheel chronograph was dubbed the Ebel caliber 134. Zenith supplied several brands with its high-beat chronograph movement, including Rolex for its Daytona (from 1988 to 2000). Unlike Rolex, Ebel kept the beat rate high.

In 1995, Ebel introduced the Le Modulor chronograph. Basically, it was the successor to the Sport Classic Chronograph, this time with the new caliber 137, which Ebel had co-developed with Lémania.

Confusion

Often, I see sellers of these Ebel chronographs being confused about the exact naming of these watches. There’s the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph, the 1911 (basically the same but with a link bracelet instead of the wave bracelet), and the later Le Modulor (with caliber 137). Logan Baker has done a wonderful write-up on the Ebel chronograph story and its many facets, which you can read here.

Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 1134901

I waited a long time

One of my friends, who happens to be a watchmaker, collects Ebel chronographs, and I’ve always been impressed by the ones he’s acquired. Somehow, I never got around to adding one to my watch collection until a few years ago. In 2023, a 1986 Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph ref. 1134901 came up for sale locally, and I decided to pull the trigger.

I believe the price was around €2,000, and I spent an additional amount to have it serviced and to get a replacement bracelet in better condition. The good news is that any watchmaker who can service an El Primero can work on this watch. I also found the available spare parts reasonably priced. A spare bracelet was around €350, and a service set me back €280.

Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 8134901 — Image: Watchtender (via Chrono24)

Other variations of the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph

Only later did I learn that the seemingly full-steel version of this watch (reference 9134901) has a white gold bezel. You will also find that the wave bracelet looks slightly different on the full-gold version (reference 8134901). For me, however, the bicolor Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 1134901 (see the caliber “134” in the reference number?) is the one to have or chase.

Ebel 1911 El Primero — Image: Horus Düsseldorf

That said, you can find the gold versions on a leather strap for around €6,000, which is quite impressive. Remember, these watches were considered very luxurious in the 1980s and were pricier than a Rolex Daytona, for example. Anyway, you will find many variations of the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph, with different dials and materials. There were even some versions with a perpetual calendar (caliber 136).

On the wrist

Thanks to its 38mm case and mere 11mm thickness, the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph is incredibly comfortable. Although some accuse the bracelet of pulling their arm hair, it has never harmed mine. The bracelet is thin and may seem flimsy at first, but it held up very well for decades, so it’s more solid than it looks.

Is it worth getting an Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph today?

Ebel’s Sport Classic Chronograph (or 1911 Chronograph) is perfect for those seeking something that stands out from the crowd today. It also meets the demand for smaller, thinner watches, especially chronographs, with a modest 38mm diameter and 11mm thickness. Furthermore, it’s a nice way to own an El Primero chronograph priced between €2,000 and €3,000. That’s the price range that will get you an Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph or 1911 Chronograph in good condition. There are quite a few variations available in different materials and with different dials, including subtle details that differ from watch to watch.

Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 1134901 — Image: Zeitauktion

Make sure you search for Ebel 1911, Ebel El Primero, or Ebel 1134901 (or any of the other references you are after) to find them. Here is an interesting offer, for example, or this one here. Just make sure the bracelets are long enough to fit your wrist. You can also find them on a leather strap, like this one, but be aware that the strap needs a special metal insert to fit the case. Finding a replacement can be a hassle. As mentioned, though, spare Ebel wave bracelets can be found relatively cheaply.

Are there any things you need to be aware of?

I am happy to see that many of these Ebel chronograph watches survived approximately four decades without major issues. In the past, I mentioned how the bracelet attaches to the case. The use of two screws underneath the lugs can cause the bracelet to snap off if there’s too much pressure on the end link or bracelet. I have seen this going wrong on multiple occasions.

Also, although these watches have an official water resistance rating of 30 meters, due to their age and the lack of gasket replacements (unless you have proof of a service), I would definitely avoid exposing them to water.

Finding a nice example should take precedence over pursuing a full set, in my opinion. But if you do want a full set, you will find some differences in the leather pouches Ebel used, as well as in the sets of warranty cards/papers.