Arctic surfing — why not? And why not do it in style? Charlie, a small independent watch brand from Paris, adds five updated Concordia GMT watches to its lineup, and not only are they adventure-proof, but they also have a certain je ne sais quoi flair. It must be the subtle dial colors of the watches bearing the names Antarctic Blue (how appropriate), Black, Tundra, Sage, and Bordeaux. The quintet replaces the brand’s previous traveler’s watches and comes with a different movement and a (much) lower price.

It’s comforting to know that you can take the updated Charlie Concordia GMT surfing in Arctic waters. At least you can be sure it will handle a dip in the heated pool. Charlie, also/previously known as Charlie Paris, has updated the Concordia GMT. It now features new colors, a revised design, and a more accessible price. Do you remember the Concordia GMT Dune Jorg reviewed two years ago? Forget about that, not because it wasn’t a nice watch, but because its predecessor is here with some surprising updates. The price, for instance, dropped from €1,407 for the Concordia GMT on a bracelet to €695 on a steel three- or five-row bracelet and €645 on a Milanese mesh bracelet or a leather, rubber, or nylon strap. While it’s a very nice surprise, it does raise the question of how this is possible.

The updated Charlie Concordia GMT Black

Charlie adds five updated Concordia GMT watches to its lineup

The biggest difference between the old and the new Concordia GMT is the movement. The previous version used the automatic Soprod C125 “office” GMT caliber, priced at around US$330. The new watch houses an NH34 caliber from Seiko subsidiary TMI. This one costs roughly US$50, likely making it the cheapest automatic “office” GMT caliber available today. That explains why Charlie can now outfit adventurers with a smaller budget.

Case profile of the updated Charlie Concordia GMT

Now, outfitting the Concordia GMT with a Seiko movement instead of a Soprod one did result in a slightly larger, thicker watch. The dive-watch-inspired case, made of 316L stainless steel, has a 40.5mm diameter and a 13.75mm total thickness (including the double-domed crystal). These dimensions mark 0.5mm and 1mm increases, respectively, from the previous models. Still, the difference in width is marginal, and the 11.75mm thickness of the steel case itself (without the crystal) should make the watch look fairly slim.

A screw-down crown helps maintain a 300m depth rating. The see-through case back features a flat sapphire. The NH34, providing 41 hours of power reserve, might not be the best-looking movement, but for those new to mechanical watches, a display case back can be a big plus. A look at the beating heart of the movement reassures the buyer that the archaic mechanical watch was money well spent, and it could be the hypnotizing starting point of a passion for traditional watchmaking,

Dial of the updated Charlie Concordia GMT Tundra

Solo to the South Pole

The Concordia story dates back to 2018, when Charlie developed the collection to meet the requirements of French adventurer Matthieu Tordeur. That year, Tordeur set off from Hercules Inlet in Antarctica on a 1,150km solo journey to the South Pole. He completed the expedition in 51 days without assistance or resupply, facing temperatures as low as -37°C. The collection takes its name from Concordia Station, the French-Italian research base located in the Antarctic interior at an altitude of more than 3,200 meters.

The revamped Charlie Concordia GMT Burgundy

The five new mechanical versions of the Concordia GMT

The new GMT watch is available in five dial colors — Antarctic Blue, Black, Tundra, Bordeaux, and Sage. The new dials feature revised hour markers and a repositioned date window. Super-LumiNova provides the necessary glow when daylight disappears, which, depending on how far north or south you are, can be for a considerable time.

Dial close-up of the Charlie Concordia GMT Burgundy

Those about to set off on an expedition into the rugged unknown should know that the watch weighs 73 grams without a strap or bracelet. This is crucial info when assembling your expedition gear, since marginal weight differences are everything when you’re in the wild. A practical feature before the start of an adventure is the watch’s tool-free interchangeable strap system. The 20mm lug spacing makes it easy to find alternate straps, and there are plenty of color-matching options to choose from.

Surfing in the Arctic with the Charlie Concordia GMT

A film to get you in the mood

The watch launch is accompanied by the film Kald Sòl, directed by Thomas Meurot and produced by the No Palm Tree Surfing organization. The project follows surfers meeting the Sámi people in Finnmark, northern Norway, and heading into a landscape where the ocean, tundra, and winter conditions make for rather more than a conventional surf trip. It is an appropriate setting for the Concordia because the watch’s origin story has always been less about looking adventurous and more about being useful when adventure actually happens.

The revamped Charlie Concordia GMT is an attractive traveler’s watch at an even better price point. If you were a fan of the previous generation, the new ones are going to sweep you off your feet. The more economical movement, double-domed sapphire crystal, revised dial details, new colors, and the choice of strap or bracelet make it hard to resist, and not just if you want to go surf in Arctic waters. Also, if you’re looking for an entry-level GMT watch with familiar looks in tasteful color combinations, any of these five new watches could be your pick. These rugged adventurers certainly know how to dress up on a budget.

Watch specifications

Model
Concordia GMT - Antarctic Blue / Black / Tundra / Sage / Bordeaux
Dial
Dark blue, black, white, sage green, or deep red with applied luminous indexes, date window at 3 o'clock, and two-color 24-hour rehaut
Case Material
316L stainless steel with blue, black, gray, green, or silver anodized aluminum bezel insert
Case Dimensions
40.5mm (diameter) × 47.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 13.5mm (thickness with crystal, 11.75mm without)
Crystal
Double-domed sapphire
Case Back
316L stainless steel and sapphire crystal, screw-in
Movement
TMI (Seiko) NH34: automatic with manual winding and hacking seconds, 21,600vph (3Hz) frequency, 41-hour power reserve, 24 jewels
Water Resistance
300 meters
Strap
316L stainless steel three-row bracelet (20mm width) with push-button folding clasp and security lock, five-row bracelet with push-button folding clasp Milanese mesh bracelet with jewelry-style clasp and security lock / Leather, rubber, and nylon straps available in several colors (depending on model), all with pin buckle
Functions
Main time (hours, minutes, seconds), caller GMT (independently adjustable 24-hour hand and 24-hour GMT rehaut), date, 60-minute dive bezel
Price
€695 (three- or five-row bracelet) / €645 (strap)