Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Vs. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty 39mm
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another showdown! This week, the new stainless steel Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty takes on the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. With this new Laureato, Girard-Perregaux impressed a lot of fans. Not only is the 39mm version spot-on in terms of size, but the redesigned enamel dial also adds a brilliant touch to the Laureato. It goes up against the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. While the Overseas seems to have taken a back seat since the stainless steel 222 came out, it is still a great modern integrated-bracelet sports watch. It oozes the sophistication and class that we know from Vacheron Constantin. Let’s see which of the two contenders will take the win in this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown.
This week’s showdown is a nice test case for the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato. The redesigned Laureato Fifty 39mm looks absolutely stunning, comes with an impressive new caliber, and, at €24,000, has a price tag to match. Mike expressed his admiration for the watch in his hands-on review, so it makes sense that it is his pick in today’s matchup. It goes up against Jorg’s Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding 4520V, the improved and more refined version of the previous 4500V. At €29,200, it is slightly more expensive than its opponent, but the two watches are still in the same financial ballpark. How do they hold up in a one-on-one battle? Let’s find out.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Before we hand it over to Mike and Jorg, though, let’s quickly recap the previous matchup. In last Sunday’s battle, the Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026 beat the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 with the slimmest possible margin. The Oris received 51% of the votes, while the Nomos received 49%. It shows the popularity of the latest Hölstein Edition, which initially looked a bit strange in the renders that the brand sent with the press release. But when we got the watch in for a hands-on review, we quickly agreed that it looks so much better in real life. And you seemed to concur, which is why the Oris won last week’s battle.
Image: The Watch Club
Jorg: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding
Today’s showdown is between two watches I like a lot. I was pleasantly surprised by the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty when we had it in the office. With a new caliber, a beautiful enamel dial with a stripped-down design, and a perfect 39mm case, it easily beats the previous Laureato.
I’ve gone on record saying that I love some of the Laureato releases we have seen over the past few years. The one that immediately comes to mind is the special 42mm Wempe Limited Edition with a black onyx dial. That special version shook off the dated impression I sometimes get when I see the Laureato. With the new Laureato Fifty, Girard-Perregaux updated the design to make it look more modern, and I truly appreciate that. But is it better than the Overseas?
To answer that, I have to explain why I love the Overseas so much. Overall, I adore its more contemporary design. It feels less defined by the ’70s than some of its competitors these days, like the Laureato. The 41mm Overseas is 10.69mm thick and measures just under 49mm in length. It’s a substantial watch that sits wonderfully on the wrist.
At first, I didn’t really know what to make of the bezel design and the integrated bracelet with its Maltese-cross-inspired links. But once you get a chance to try the Overseas Self-Winding, you will find that it is far less divisive than some images might suggest.
Vacheron Constantin does dials like no other brand
The magical element that beautifully counterbalances these angular and edgy parts is the dial. After spending time with the Historiques 222 and the Overseas on multiple occasions, I can honestly say that no brand executes dials as expertly as Vacheron Constantin. I don’t mean that in terms of materials or wow factor, as there are plenty of brands that do that. But when it comes to a natural balance that oozes class and sophistication, Vacheron Constantin is second to none. For the Overseas, the dial design is a layered exercise in refinement. If you look closely, you will discover that the design gradually becomes less detailed from the outer seconds track to the dial’s center.
Image: The Watch Club
As a result, it seems very straightforward, with the large center fairly empty. But the seconds and minute tracks add plenty of detail, giving the dial a sophisticated feel. It’s far from rocket science, but knowing how to create a dial like this and balance all its design elements is a craft in itself. It’s useless to explain element by element because it simply creates a feeling that I adore.
Image: Mr. Watchley
On top of that, Vacheron Constantin is one of the few brands that chooses colors very well. It’s public knowledge that I adore the brown-dial version of the previous-generation Overseas. But even a more common blue dial is always done to perfection. Vacheron’s keen eye for the right shades of blue and green for its dials is remarkable. The proud sign-off every time is that majestic Vacheron Constantin name with the Maltese cross right above it. This is one logo that carries tremendous weight and garners massive respect.
The brand names have a different ring to them
Unfortunately, I don’t get the same feeling with GP. Girard-Perregaux is certainly one of the reputable Swiss brands, but in terms of watchmaking excellence, there is simply a different ring to the two names. A quick look at the collection of both brands confirms that feeling. Vacheron’s extensive collection is full of technological marvels across its product lines. Furthermore, there has traditionally been a difference in the two brands’ quality and finishing. These factors give Vacheron Constantin the majestic reputation it has today, which, in my opinion, is more prestigious than Girard-Perregaux’s.
All of that is fine, though, because there used to be a significant price difference between the two brands. With the new Laureato Fifty, however, that price difference has shrunk significantly. As mentioned in the intro, the price difference between the Overseas and the newest Laureato is just €5,200, down from more than double that. And it’s still strange to see a nearly €10k price difference between the Laureato 38mm Midnight Blue and the new Laureato Fifty 39mm.
Sure, the new GP4800 caliber is a step forward, and the dial is wonderful. But does that justify the price hike? And does it make the Laureato a better pick than the Overseas? The Overseas caliber 5100 is a beautifully finished automatic movement that proudly carries the Geneva Hallmark. It has a proven track record of reliability and a wonderful caliber for the Overseas since its introduction in 2016. And you will know my answer to the question of which dial I prefer, Mike. When putting these two watches on the wrist, there is a different feel to them. Both are great, but the Overseas Self-Winding 4520V is my clear favorite because it feels more special. It’s that simple.
Mike: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty 39mm
This week, we’re pitting two reasonably sized integrated-bracelet watches in steel against each other. While Jorg has the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding, I am thankful to support the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty. He spent some words on the merits of the Vacheron but perhaps even more on what he doesn’t like about the GP. So, the first question I ask is whether he truly loves the Vacheron or if he’s choosing between two watches that don’t necessarily resonate with him. I’ll let you be the judge!
My side of the argument, however, is clear. I’ve never gotten on with the Overseas, and frankly, the size, dial color, and metal don’t matter. I find the bracelet looks too sharp, and the dial is a snoozer. Give me free straps and an admittedly pretty movement, and I’m still barely noticing it in a showcase. I have less than zero vitriol toward Vacheron; it’s just that this watch doesn’t ooze the sense of luxury that one of the so-called Holy Trinity watches should. The Laureato Fifty, on the other hand, is a big jump for Girard-Perregaux.
Why this watch rocks
Let’s start with the elephant in the room, pricing, because it seems to be the only thing people talk about these days (regarding any watch not named Rolex). At €24,000, the Laureato Fifty is pricey. It’s more expensive on account of its better movement and hand-enameled dial. Is that enough to make it significantly more expensive than the 42mm versions? Well, little makes sense when it comes to watch pricing, but a glance at the larger models shows a dial with less intricate detailing and a movement with a different level of finishing. Girard-Perregaux has adorned this watch with finer elements to allow it to compete with the likes of the Overseas.
In my view, the Fifty not only competes with the Vacheron but also bests it on this occasion. First of all, the dial is far more intricate here, and it comes to us without all sorts of minute markers, rehaut numerals, or other superfluous details. I’m not saying that the Vacheron’s dial is badly constructed or generic, but it doesn’t stand out to me. Then, the GP wisely soldiers forward without a date. This helps the watch achieve a level of refinement and elegance that the Vacheron cannot. Finally, both dials are enameled, but again, I think the Clous de Paris pattern shows off the benefit of using the special pigment. There’s an unmatched depth to this piece.
When size matters
Another area where the Laureato Fifty shines is its size. This watch was screaming for a stainless steel version of the two-tone piece that came out last year for the Laureato’s 50th anniversary. At 39mm by 46mm, it hits a sweet spot, whereas the Overseas, at 41mm by 49mm, is simply too large for some wrists. Plus, factor in the integrated bracelets on these watches, and they should wear a bit larger than their dimensions. Thickness is a push, but it is nice to see that the Laureato, at 10.2mm, comes in at roughly 0.5mm below the Overseas.
Stepping up with the GP4800
Vacheron has a reputation for filling its watches with lovely movements, and the 5100 caliber is no slouch. However, objectively speaking, Girard-Perregaux has it beaten both aesthetically and performance-wise. Just look at the GP4800 movement and tell me it’s not prettier than what we see on the Overseas. I think that’s tough to do because GP has highlighted the balance bridge in rose gold while matching it to the lithe oscillating rotor. If we talk about capabilities, the power reserve is within five hours of the 5100, and the frequency is the same. The difference-maker is that GP employs a silicon escapement, which should prove to be a winner in the long term.
Time to choose
I find the Laureato Fifty 39mm highly attractive. In fact, and I’ve mentioned this, it’s a horse race between this watch and the Parmigiani Tonda PF 36 for me. However, that’s only my vote. You’ll now be asked to cast your vote below for one of these luxurious accompaniments. While you’re at it, have a scribble in the comments section and let us know the reasons for choosing your victor.
