Hands-On: The New Steel Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty
Today, we go hands-on with a watch that should prove to be a sure-fire winner. This, folks, is one of those pieces that feels like it was waiting to be made. Finally, that day is here, and we have the full rundown. It’s the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty in full stainless steel. If that doesn’t already sound good enough, more great news awaits.
As I mentioned in a prior Girard-Perregaux article, the current Laureato collection has been with us since 2016. When it debuted, it brought back a design very close to the original 1975 model. Since then, we’ve been treated to a wide variety of variants and complications. However, it was only last year that the brand introduced a smaller 39mm model to celebrate the Laureato’s 50th birthday. RJ went hands-on with the appropriately named Laureato Fifty, which was lovely, but it had two issues. First, it was limited to just 200 pieces, and it had a two-tone case. The latter wasn’t a real problem, but this was a watch begging for an all-steel exterior. Well, eight months later, that day has finally come.
The Laureato Fifty in stainless steel
Like the limited edition, the stainless steel Fifty has a 39mm case with a 46mm lug-to-lug measurement. It’s also appropriately thin, offering a 10.2mm profile. As an everyday watch that can handle the elements, it has been built with a water resistance rating of 150 meters and a screw-down crown. Naturally, the watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, including an antireflective coating.
What a dial!
A ’70s-inspired integrated-bracelet sports watch feels right with a textured and patterned dial. The Laureato Fifty delivers on this in spades. Keen observers will notice a key point right away — or rather, the lack of a detail. Minimalists will rejoice at the lack of a date window, a key differentiator from last October’s bicolor Laureato Fifty limited edition. Instead, we’re treated to a lush expanse of dark blue-green hand-applied enamel over a three-dimensional Clous de Paris-patterned dial.
The scant other details include an applied Girard-Perregaux name and logo. Topping it off are 18K white gold baton-shaped hour markers and central hands. The indexes and the hour and minute hands are filled with white, blue-glowing luminous material. Folks, this is what a classy integrated-bracelet sports watch should look like! Simple, regal, and timeless.
A finely finished case
Girard-Perregaux has always excelled with its finishing, and the latest Laureato Fifty upholds that tradition. Finely brushed surfaces meet succinct edges that often contain highly polished surfaces. Great examples can be found along the top case edges and even where the mid-case contacts the wrist. The eight-sided bezel isn’t new, but it’s a lovely piece to behold with its multiple surfaces and underlying round base. Finally, the polished and brushed crown replicates the bezel shape twice throughout its execution.
The in-house GP4800 automatic movement
The Laureato Fifty is also endowed with a class-competitive and beautifully finished caliber. Display backs are typical in this segment, but this doesn’t mean that the underlying movement is always worth viewing. Thankfully, the automatic GP4800 doesn’t disappoint. Bridges are a key theme among Girard-Perregaux watches, even comprising the brand’s logo. This movement exhibits a lovely rose gold balance bridge, which pairs beautifully with the similarly designed oscillating rotor.
Côtes de Genève surface finishing is found on the mainplate, and anglage is used liberally. Regarding performance, the 19-jewel caliber has a frequency of 28,800 vph and 55 hours of power reserve. As a sign of modernity, it also contains a silicon escapement. All told, it’s a lovely-looking movement with an air of symmetry, something that appeals to me.
A fitting bracelet for a fantastic watch
The Laureato Fifty has an integrated bracelet with brushed H-style links that alternate with polished rectangular sections. Each of these can be removed via a small, singular screw. The bracelet also includes a flush-fitting butterfly clasp actuated via twin push-buttons. On top of this clasp, we find the brand’s bridge logo bisected by two links that come together. The underside of each of the two clasp links has a small mechanism which provides a 4mm total micro-adjustment.
The Laureato Fifty on the wrist
While the normal 42mm version of the Laureato is a lovely piece, it’s simply too large for some wrists. Simply put, the 39mm Laureato Fifty hits the sweet spot. For those of us who have been waiting, this was a long time coming. Also, some watches don’t translate well when offered in sizes outside of the most familiar offering. This one bucks that trend and maintains perfect proportionality.
On the wrist, the bracelet articulates cleanly and drapes elegantly. Then, there’s the dial. Its blue-green shade can literally turn into either of its parts depending on the light. Here, a material like enamel heightens that ever-changing look by adding rich depth. It was a great idea by Girard-Perregaux to use this type of pigment on the textured dial to further differentiate it from others in its class. Finally, the lack of a date window once again tickles my love of symmetry. Sure, some will miss a date, but I still think it was the right design choice.
Parting thoughts
There’s no doubt that the new Laureato Fifty in stainless steel is a gorgeous watch. It’s exactly what the brand needed to bolster its fight against the many competitors offering integrated-bracelet sports watches. Little differences, such as the dial color and material or the lack of a date window, also make it stand out as a special piece. So, first, there’s some happy news: this is not a limited edition. That’s a good thing, and I hope they’re relatively easy to find. On the more challenging front for us everyday folk, the watch has a list price of €24,000. That’s definitely in the luxury category, but it’s not a surprise considering the price of other Girard-Perregaux Laureato pieces. One thing is for certain, though: if I were buying a Laureato, it would definitely be this model.
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