Bvlgari Introduces The Stealthy Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium 103371
Establishing a disruptive concept based on integrity is not always easy. Especially when you have created a winning concept like Bvlgari did with the Octo Finissimo. That is why it has been interesting to see how Bvlgari has been expanding its Octo Finissmo collection. Can you keep the concept and characteristics of the Octo Finissimo alive when adding new watches to the line-up? And is there an end to what is possible? For now, the brand shows that the end is not in sight with the stealthy Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium.
It is fascinating to see what Bvlgari comes up with every year regarding the Octo Finissimo. The brand struck gold with its sandblasted titanium version of the watch in 2017. The practice of combining an original design with record-breaking movements proved to be a winner. And ever since that moment, Bvlgari has been able to surprise us with a string of great new introductions.
These new introductions are not only record-breaking when it comes to the movements or a testament to the Octo’s great design. No, Bvlgari has been very aware that the success also has to do with the materials, the finishing, and the colors. The latest addition to the line-up is once again proof of that awareness. The black Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium takes the proven concept and adds proper stealth qualities.
Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium
The first Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT was introduced at Baselworld in 2019. After seeing the thinnest tourbillon, the thinnest minute repeater, and the thinnest automatic movement, a chronograph was a logical next step. I explained in my review that it was not just a new technological step for Bvlgari. Designing a chronograph is also proof of a successful design concept. And the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT showed the great power of the Octo Finissimo’s design.
For the new Chronograph GMT, the brand has created a version that introduces a black opaline dial and a rubber strap to the Octo Finissimo line-up. These two firsts result in a very versatile, smokey version of the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT. And it proves that there is a desirable alternative for the incredible bracelet of the Octo Finissimo.
The black opaline dial
The introduction of a black opaline dial is a first for the Octo Finissimo. But it’s not new to Bvlgari. We have seen black opaline dials used for the brand’s Serpenti collection for ladies. The matte black dial contrasts nicely with the 42mm titanium case that is water-resistant to 30 meters. Until now, Bvlgari has only used contrasting dial colors for a select number of Octo Finissimo models. Usually, the dials are in line with the case materials, creating this great monochrome presence. The two most important models that broke that rule until now are the two steel models with a black and blue dial.
Although I have been a great fan of that understated monochrome presence, I have to say I like this configuration over the original Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT. The black opaline canvas works really well for the titanium grey markers and subdials. It’s easier on the eye than the original configuration of a titanium dial with black elements.
Overall the dial feels a bit more vibrant.
Just as with the original model, the small seconds sub-dial is positioned at 9 o’clock, the 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock, and a second timezone indication at 3 o’clock. And overall, the dial feels a bit more vibrant than that of the original release, which is a weird thing to state for a watch with such a stealthy presence. But put the two next to each other, and this is the one that stands out.
The texturized rubber bracelet
The second new introduction is the use of the texturized rubber bracelet for the Octo Finissimo. Bvlgari has used rubber bracelets for other Octo models but has refrained from using them for the Octo Finissimo. While the use of a rubber strap is nothing special in itself, it’s a bit of an eye-opener for me personally when it comes to the Octo Finissimo.
Slight changes can bring great variety.
Up until now, it has been all about the bracelet for me when it comes to the Octo Finissimo. The models that come on a leather strap are nice, but it doesn’t feel like a natural fit for the case’s angular shape. The design needs that really well-engineered and executed bracelet. At least, that is what I thought.
With the addition of the rubber strap, the brand has found the solution that fits the technical character of the Octo Finissimo a lot better. Using a black rubber strap fitted with a titanium buckle, the brand has taken another step in proving that slight changes can bring great variety.
The ultra-thin caliber BVL 318
The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is powered by the same ultra-thin caliber BVL 318 as the original version. This 3.3mm thick automatic movement uses a peripheral rotor, has a 55-hour power reserve, and features a GMT-function that can be operated by the pusher at the 9 o’clock position. The two pushers positioned at the right side of the case give access to the chronograph functions. The pusher at the 9 o’clock position allows you to adjust the local time zone by one-hour increments. When pulling the crown, both home time and local time are adjusted.
The use of the peripheral rotor has made a very thin case of only 6.9mm possible. As a result, the brand was forced to increase the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT’s size from 40mm for the automatic version to 42m for the Chronograph GMT version. As discussed in my review of the original Chronograph GMT, this does not only guarantee a very slim overall profile, but it also allows for some extra breathing space of the dial design. When you turn the watch around, the caliber BVL 318 is visible through the sapphire display. The orbital rotor is truly a fantastic sight.
The new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT sees another two firsts for the Octo Finissimo line-up. They might seem like small changes from what we have seen up until now, but while that is true, they highlight that the strength of the Octo Finissimo is not in big overall changes. It’s all about fine-tuning a brilliant concept and making sure every new introduction fits that concept. And Bvlgari understands that perfectly.
It looks like a joy to wear with the rubber strap.
I can only say I would definitely like to experience what this new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is like on the wrist when it comes to its overall presence. It looks like a joy to wear with the rubber strap. And on top of that, it possesses an aesthetic that will bring in new fans that prefer the comfort and practicality of a rubber strap over a bracelet.
While I am not in that camp just yet, I think this is another great addition to the line-up. The all-new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 103371 is available now for €17,400. If you want to find out more, visit the official Bvlgari website.