Frederique Constant Introduces The Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake
In 2022, Frederique Constant launched a special version of its Slimline Perpetual Calendar in collaboration with The Naked Watchmaker. Roughly 18 months later, this joint effort gets a new chapter with another version of the same watch. This time around, however, the new edition comes courtesy of Peter Speake. He is no longer part of The Naked Watchmaker initiative, but he did work together with Frederique Constant on this latest iteration of the brand’s Slimline Perpetual Calendar. Let’s find out more.
When that special edition of the Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar came out in 2022, it was the first watch collaboration that Peter Speake and Daniela Marin worked on after starting The Naked Watchmaker. As Marin explained in an interview with Fratello’s Thor, it was a special moment. The Naked Watchmaker platform provides knowledge and insights to people interested in watches, so any first watch that the duo contributed to would be special. But the Slimline Perpetual Calendar was more than just their first collaboration. The beautiful brown and blue colors combined with the open-worked construction made for a stylish timepiece. Then, in late 2023, Frederique Constant released a 35-piece limited edition similar to today’s release but with a black PVD-treated case. Today’s version is a nice follow-up that comes courtesy of Peter Speake.
A Naked Interpretation of the Slimline Perpetual Calendar
You may be unfamiliar with the first collaborative effort between Frederique Constant and The Naked Watchmaker. If so, I highly suggest you read Thor’s introduction article. Not only does he explain the watch in detail, but he also talks to Daniela Marin about it. That interview gives you a nice bit of background information on this new watch. The new Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake uses that first watch and expands on it while changing small details.
The new 135-piece limited edition has the same skeletonized overall aesthetic as the first version. However, instead of a brown dial, we now get a matte gray dial with a stainless steel case. The case measures 42mm in diameter, 47mm from lug to lug, and 12.05mm thick with a water resistance rating of 3 ATM. It has a polished finish that contrasts nicely with the matte gray dial. You will find an onion-style crown on the right side of the case, and both case flanks also feature different pushers to adjust the perpetual calendar.
The skeletonized dial of the Slimline Perpetual Calendar
This open-worked dial features gray sub-dial rings and bridges. The sword-style central minute and hour hands are skeletonized but painted entirely with white lume. They indicate the time in conjunction with a white luminous minute track on the outskirts of the dial. Unlike the hands on the previous models, these new ones do not feature solid luminous tips, giving them an even more open look. The white hands for the sub-dials are also skeletonized, but they feature red tips to indicate the date at 3 o’clock, the day at 9, and the month at 12. Lastly, the moonphase indicator sits at 6 o’clock and features two luminescent moons.
As a result of the dark dial colors, you get a great view of the movement. The elements that stand out immediately are the gold-colored gears and the blue screws. Other than that, it’s a pretty stealthy operation. The day and date sub-dials are noticeably bigger than both the month indicator and the moonphase display. Additionally, they are placed on top of them, bringing arguably the most important information to the front. A remarkable design choice is the deconstructed look of the moonphase indicator, which lacks the traditional overlay to help you see the lunar phases. As Thor explained when writing about the first model, the moonphase indicator was altered to be an animation reflecting the movement of time.
The in-house-created caliber FC-775
If you turn the watch around, you will see the Frederique Constant’s in-house FC-775 automatic perpetual calendar movement. The caliber operates at a 28,800vph frequency and offers a 38-hour power reserve. The bridges on the dial side have a gray finish for this Peter Speake-designed special edition. That same color can be found on the back, along with perlage, Geneva stripes, and blued screws. Those screws match the blue skeletonized oscillating weight and offer a nice contrast to the dark gray color. The gray bridge visible on the back side also has an engraving reminding you that the watch is a special edition designed by Peter Speake.
Finally, the watch has a black nylon strap and a stainless steel folding buckle. It fits the overall aesthetics nicely. The new Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture by Peter Speake will be produced in a limited run of 135 pieces for a price of €11,995. I liked the first version of the watch a bit more because of the colors used. That version created a stylish contrast between the chic colors and the skeletonization look. This new version is a bit less surprising, especially after the black PVD model from 2023. Nevertheless, it still makes for a great open-worked perpetual calendar that is affordable compared to some of its high-end competitors. On top of that, it also looks better than many of those competitors. That is a big compliment to both Frederique Constant and Peter Speake.
For more information, visit the official Frederique Constant website. In the comments section, let us know your thoughts on this new Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture by Peter Speake.
