Grand Seiko thrives on its legacy as an artisan. Its Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch (reference SBGD205) from the Masterpiece Collection captures the elegance of timeless design and the magic of the artistic crafts.

This year marks a monumental moment in time for the house of Grand Seiko. 2020 heralds the Japanese watchmaker’s 60th anniversary and debuts a new, cutting edge Masterpiece Collection. In honor of Grand Seiko’s heritage and its watchmakers’ desire to create a spectacular timepiece, the Masterpiece Collection revolves around the brand’s history, its unique origin, and craftsmanship.

I’ve always loved concepts that explore a breathtaking story. The release of reference SBGD205 is underpinned by the kind of story you want to immerse yourself in. Hold your breath and dive deep into Seiko’s interpretation of the modern Haute Joaillerie. But more importantly, it’s a story that challenges us our perceptions. In an increasingly genderless age, this watch makes a statement. It is not defined as a watch for men or a watch for women. In fact, no mention of its “intended” customer is made. That leaves the question up to the customer. If you like it, then it is for you.

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Jewelry Watch Gets a Modern Edge

There are many advantages of having a killer dress/cocktail watch. Firstly, it sends a decisive message that you know what you want. Secondly, it reflects and projects your self-confidence. And when it comes to self-confidence, the SBGD205 is not found wanting. The Platinum case measures 43mm in diameter, with a thickness of 13.5mm.

Without a doubt, it’s a large face, but very well done. The elegant and sleek design is brought to life by Zaratsu polishing. All of these features suggest a watch that would balk at the thought of activity. Somewhat unexpectedly, however, reference SBGD205 is water-resistant to 100 meters and able to withstand magnetic fields of up to 4,800 A/m.

Diamond dust texture

The crème de la crème of this limited edition Spring Drive is definitely the dial. 96 diamonds and 25 deep blue sapphires are arranged in perfect harmony. The dial and its features are astonishing. This is especially true of the central dial. It is finished with a diamond dust texture with the constellation of Leo cleverly worked into the background. Such a subtle and artful nod to the brand’s mascot does not go unappreciated.

The blue seconds hand harmonizes with the sapphire-pave crown (which is where you can find that 25th sapphire, in case you were wondering). A navy blue crocodile strap ties everything together. It balances the concept and draws extra attention to the tapered baguette sapphires that make up the hour markers.

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The Movement

A see-through case back reveals Grand Seiko’s in-house caliber 9R01 with its well-executed finishing of the one-piece bridge that refers to the outline of Mt Fuji. The bridge is colored to match the “diamond dust” dial texture and is decorated with Grand Seiko’s emblem and jewels. The hand-wound 9R01 can generate a power reserve of 192 hours (8 days). It is capable of doing so thanks to three barrels arranged in sequence to deliver such an impressive power reserve and an accuracy of +0.5 seconds per day.

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Jewelry Motifs and Grand Seiko’s Signature Style

Nothing is truly black or white. This timepiece is modern, subtle, and ground-breaking. If a watch could be a mirror of the present times, then the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch could be it. The delicate jewels contrast with a substantial case diameter. This is not just for men or women. It is for anyone. Reference SBGD205 is undeniably a modern timepiece for anyone seduced by its androgynous vibe. Limited to just 10 pieces priced at €195,000, this is certainly an exclusive piece. Learn more about it by visiting the Grand Seiko website.