Hot Take: Grand Seiko Introduces The SBGW325
Grand Seiko has just added the limited-edition SBGW325 to its Elegance Collection, paying tribute to the SBGW003 from 2001. That model was the first Grand Seiko to feature a manually wound 9S mechanical movement, the caliber 9S54. The new watch revisits one of its most distinctive details, the blocky Arabic numerals, while introducing a deep navy dial inspired by Japan’s traditional indigo-dyeing heritage.
With the signature Elegance Collection case, the SBGW325 also draws on the design of Grand Seiko’s first watch from 1960. The watch comes on a hand-dyed indigo crocodile strap, reinforcing the Japanese craft inspiration. It’s also equipped with the modern hand-wound caliber 9S64, which provides a handy three-day power reserve.
Rundown: Grand Seiko SBGW325
The SBGW325 has a 37.3mm stainless steel case with a 44.3mm lug-to-lug and an 11.7mm total thickness. Its rounded profile gives it a relatively soft silhouette, while the sloping lugs feature the distortion-free surfaces associated with Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing. A box-shaped sapphire crystal covers the dial, and the screw-secured transparent case back provides a view of the movement.
The deep navy dial combines satin-finished and sandblasted surfaces with boldly raised Arabic numerals. The design takes its cue from the SBGW003, while the color references Japan’s traditional indigo-dyeing techniques. The matching crocodile strap is hand-dyed using hon-ai methods, which Grand Seiko describes as both meticulous and time-consuming.
An additional interchangeable calfskin strap (pictured above) is also included.
Inside, the manually wound caliber 9S64 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers approximately 72 hours of power reserve. The movement contains 24 jewels and has a stated mean daily rate of -3/+5 seconds per day under Grand Seiko’s specified testing conditions. The watch is “splash resistant” and weighs 61 grams.
First impressions
The SBGW325 keeps the connection to the SBGW003 relatively focused. Its blocky Arabic numerals provide the most obvious visual link, while the manually wound 9S64 continues the connection to the early 9S generation. The indigo dial and hand-dyed strap then give the modern watch a distinct identity.
Importantly, the 37.3mm case also maintains the compact proportions that make Grand Seiko’s more traditional Elegance models so appealing. Limited to 600 pieces, the SBGW325 will be released in October 2026 and sold through Grand Seiko boutiques. The price of this limited-edition model is €5,700 / US$5,800 / £5,000.
