Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With J.N. Shapiro

Operating a traditional rose engine is intricate work. It requires constant pressure and a steady hand from the artisan at the wheel. Achieving this kind of finish demands considerable skill and concentration, and even the slightest lapse can ruin hours of painstaking work. But when everything comes together, the result is a crisp, three-dimensional pattern that makes the effort worthwhile. Zenith’s new G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro is a fine example.

Guilloché dates back to the early 1500s, although it wasn’t used in watchmaking until the following century. Another decorative technique, damaskeening, emerged in the 1800s and became particularly popular in America. Unlike the deep cuts made by a rose engine, damaskeening creates patterns on movement bridges through a lighter texturing process, marrying the deep, sweeping waves of Côtes de Genève with the spirograph-like geometry of a rose engine. With this historical context in mind, it’s easy to see the appeal of Zenith’s latest collaboration. This watch speaks the language of Swiss chronometry fluently, but with a heavy Californian accent.

Following its first G.F.J. collaboration with Tokyo-based Naoya Hida & Co., Zenith has now turned to the United States, partnering with Los Angeles-based independent watchmaker Joshua Shapiro. The result is a 25-piece limited edition in 18K rose gold, featuring a double-signed dial with three distinct guilloché patterns.

Joshua Shapiro

The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro

Zenith has opted for a 39mm 18K rose gold case. Its warm tone contrasts nicely with the cooler silver dial. Size-wise, it also strikes a good balance for a modern dress watch, offering enough space to showcase the intricate dial work while retaining the elegant proportions of the G.F.J. collection.

The watch is water-resistant to 50 meters and features an exhibition case back, which feels mandatory for a project like this. After all, the collaboration is a chance to showcase not only the dial artistry but also J.N. Shapiro’s signature decoration on the movement. Like the G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co., which debuted earlier this year, this edition has stepped lugs and a slim, polished bezel.

A multi-pattern guilloché dial

The dial is the main attraction, showcasing three distinct guilloché patterns cut entirely by Shapiro in California. The American watchmaker has returned to the craft that first established his reputation. In recent years, his work has expanded from bespoke dial commissions to the fully in-house Resurgence watch and his caliber 26.

Using a solid silver blank as his canvas, Shapiro creates the patterns with vintage rose-engine and straight-line lathes. A classic barleycorn pattern frames the outer track, while a tightly executed basketweave motif fills the center. The sub-seconds register is perhaps the highlight. It features Shapiro’s proprietary Infinity Weave, an intricate pattern that has become his signature.

Applied 18K rose gold tracks, hands, and hour markers tie the contrasting textures together and match the case. Both Zenith and J.N. Shapiro signatures, as well as the G.F.J. initials, sit on rose gold backdrops. These details bring the design together without overcrowding the dial.

The movement

Turn the watch over, and you’ll find the Zenith caliber 135. This time, the movement brings together two distinct watchmaking traditions. In the mid-20th century, the caliber dominated the Neuchâtel Observatory trials, so traditional Swiss decoration might seem the obvious choice. Instead of Geneva stripes and perlage, however, Shapiro has applied American-style damaskeening to the broad bridges, creating a distinctive swirling pattern.

Technically, the movement is still solid. It features a large variable-inertia balance wheel with a Breguet overcoil and Charles Fleck’s signature double arrow-shaped regulator. It also offers a 72-hour power reserve and a stop-seconds mechanism, while maintaining COSC-certified accuracy of ±2 seconds per day.

Three strap options

The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 comes with three leather straps — brown Cordovan, beige nubuck alligator, and black calfskin. Each is fitted with an 18K rose gold pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J. initials. A matching rose gold bracelet is also available upon request.

The verdict

Rather than simply applying a co-branded logo on the dial, Zenith has created a watch that brings together two vastly different horological cultures. The classic, dressy rose gold case houses a striking combination of historic decorative techniques, making the G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed more than just another limited edition.

This latest addition to the G.F.J. collection will retail for CHF 68,900. Its appeal goes beyond the 25-piece production run. Collectors can also experience Shapiro’s craftsmanship without having to spend years on his typical waiting list. It makes the G.F.J. feel slightly subversive and an absolute must-have for die-hard fans of both Zenith and J.N. Shapiro.