The Awake Sơn Mài Collection Adds Bold Silver Leaf Vignette Dials
Awake opened a new chapter when it first combined silver leaf and Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer in 2024. The approach changed the brand’s aesthetic immediately by placing métiers d’art at the center of each new release. Impressively, the brand created pieces with traditional techniques that can be used daily. As a result, buyers receive watches with unique artisanship and contemporary style. The latest release continues that path. Four gradient vignette dials now appear in a redesigned 38 mm case. They draw on 1970s color ideas while remaining unmistakably Awake.
Among relatively affordable independent timepiece makers, Awake offers a unique proposition with the Sơn Mài collection. On these pieces, each dial requires more than ten hours of careful work. Artisans apply pure silver leaf, then build roughly twelve layers of pigmented lacquer, sanding and polishing between coats. The result is a one-of-a-kind surface that looks incredible in the light. In addition, the company’s still-new script signature elegantly announces the brand. Then, polished indices sit over slightly larger Super-LumiNova BGW9 platforms. In darkness, this results in an ethereal blue show where the indices float above the stunning dials. Now, let’s move on to the common specifications before checking out each new dial.
The Awake Silver Leaf Vignette dials in 38mm
Each new release uses this year’s new 38mm by 44.75mm 316L stainless steel case. The lug-to-lug is equally wearable and measures 44.75 mm, with lugs that fit 20mm straps. The thickness is also moderate at 11.50mm including the sapphire crystal or 10mm without it. Naturally, an anti-reflective coating is present. In a nod to daily usability, the water resistance rating is 100 meters with a standard push-in crown.
Each model is equipped with either an Alcantara or nubuck strap made in France by Maison Jean Rousseau and Bouveret. No matter the surface material, both are lined with rubberised calfskin. The pieces also come with a Fitwell M1 micro-adjustable pin buckle and quick-release spring bars. As we’ll see, the straps match the dials on all pieces aside from the limited edition purple model.
The limited edition Purple Viola
The Purple Viola is the first Silver Leaf Vignette dial, and it arrives as a limited edition of just 200 numbered pieces. Its gradient moves from deeper, almost black, tones at the edge toward a lighter violet center.
Interestingly, this model comes with a light gray strap, the lone model without a dial-matching accessory. It’s a wise move because it helps keep the focus on the star of the show. As is the case on all Sơn Mài models, light catches the lacquer differently depending on the angle, so no two examples look identical. While it’s somewhat of a shame that this piece is limited, the serial pieces are equally as alluring.
Indian Red — fire away
No one does red quite like Awake, so it’s great news that an Indian Red model joins the permanent Silver Leaf collection. Now, while this is a serial piece, capacity dictates that production is capped at roughly one hundred pieces annually.
The dial radiates warmth to the extent that it could be on fire! Unlike the purple, there’s no change to a much lighter hue at the center. Instead, the change is from opaque at the edge to a more transparent tone. Against the deep red strap, this is definitely a watch that stands out against typical dress clothing.
Java Green — welcome to the jungle!
Now, we move on to what is undoubtedly my favorite new Silver Leaf variant. Java Green enters serial production like a wild reptile from the rain forests! While the color evokes foliage, the texture actually reminds me of stone with its finely grained surface. The lines also look like rocky striations.
The color moves from dark green at the edges to a mossy lighter green hue toward the pinion. To me, this watch looks expensive, and while the green strap looks wonderful, I’d bet this would give much pricier dress watches a run for their money when paired with a tan leather accompaniment.
Gentian Blue — a deep abyss of color
For the richest-looking Silver Lead model, look no further than the Gentian Blue reference. Like all pieces in this collection, production is capped at approximately 100 pieces per annum. The color is dominated by azure, which gently flows into royal blue. Polished azurite comes to mind, which is one of my favorite stones.
Like the rest of the Silver Leaf collection, each dial is unique because of the handcrafted lacquer process. This piece comes with a dial-matching vivid blue strap, which creates an attractive ensemble.
A La Joux-Perret automatic inside
Within each Silver Leaf sits the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement. It has 68 hours of power reserve with a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz). The movement is surrounded by a ring engraved with Awake’s mission and the phrase “Artisanship, Awakened.” The screw-down caseback has a sapphire display, which shows off the engraved tungsten rotor and finished mainplate surfaces. While the movement isn’t in-house, Awake has picked a powerplant with competitive specs while opting for high-end finishing.
Final thoughts on the new Silver Leaf models
All four references retail for €2,640 including VAT, with deliveries beginning in late November. As mentioned, India Red, Java Green, and Gentian Blue will continue in limited yearly quantities while Purple Viola is a finite run of 200 pieces. Overall, the Silver Leaf Vignette series offers beautifully vibrant and handcrafted dials in a 38 mm case that should fit most wrists. These pieces are bold, but can also be toned down if paired with a traditional strap color. But why not enjoy them as intended and show off these pieces in full color? For more information on ordering one of these lovely new pieces, visit the official Awake website.
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