The Vander Avort Lovon: Belgian Quiet Confidence On The Wrist

I always pay attention when a new watch brand from Belgium or the Netherlands debuts. As Fratello is a Dutch publication, many of our team members are particularly interested in seeing brands from these two small countries launch their first collections. Vander Avort’s Lovon is technically a single-model collection, but it offers plenty of choice. The watch comes in either 18K 4N rose gold or palladium-alloyed white gold, with seven dial options. Each variation is limited to five pieces, bringing the total production run to just 35 watches.

Vander Avort’s story began in 1985, when the jewelry house opened in the historic center of Louvain, Belgium. After founder Mikhael Vander Avort passed the business to the next generation, his son Maxime founded Vander Avort Watches alongside childhood friend Mathieu Van Eycken in 2019. They set out to create a watch they would want to wear themselves while honoring their heritage. Six years later, the Lovon, named after their hometown, has debuted. We had the chance to try four of the seven versions.

The story of the Vander Avort Lovon collection

All seven watches have a 40.9mm case with a 10.8mm profile and a 49.5mm lug-to-lug. The elegant round case has screwed rather than soldered lugs, and master engraver Bram Ramon has decorated them by hand.

The crown is another highlight. It is large but remains elegant. While the case is undeniably substantial for a dress watch, its flowing lines help soften the proportions. Still, I would welcome a version 2–3mm smaller, as I’m sure many other enthusiasts would.

Four versions have rose gold cases, while the other three are white gold. All seven dials feature a fine radiating guilloché pattern. The rose gold models are available with silver (Satin d’Or), black (Midnight Ember), coffee-brown (Bronze d’Artois), or dark blue (Bleu d’Hiver) dials, all with rose gold hands and applied markers. The white gold Lovon comes with a silver dial and blue hands and indexes (Céleste), a dark gray dial with rose gold details (Gris de Louvain), or a dark green dial with white gold elements (Vert d’Ardenne).

Each dial has a date window at 3 o’clock with a white disc and black numerals. A chapter ring around the perimeter carries the white minute track, while the hour markers blend into the guilloché pattern. Vander Avort’s name appears on the upper half of the dial, with an inscription below indicating that the watch is automatic.

Details make the Vander Avort Lovon shine

The dials are stylish without feeling busy. Their guilloché pattern is intricate but restrained, leaving plenty of open space. I particularly like the spear-shaped hour and minute hands and sharply pointed seconds hand. They remind me of the hands in Laurent Ferrier’s Classic collection. The Vander Avort Lovon also shares some of that brand’s refined character; its aesthetic is serene without feeling lifeless.

We tried the rose gold models with black, coffee-brown, and dark blue dials, as well as the white gold Gris de Louvain with its dark gray dial and rose gold details. The rose gold versions come on dial-matching alligator straps, each secured with a rose gold pin buckle.

The white gold Gris de Louvain has a dark brown strap and a white gold buckle. Before trying them, I expected the brown-dial Bronze d’Artois to be my favorite. A few days of wearing the watches changed my mind. I’ll come back to that in a bit.

The VA01 caliber

All seven watches are powered by the VA01, made by Chronode under the direction of founder and master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon. The automatic movement contains 207 parts, including 35 jewels, runs at 28,800 vph, and provides a 60-hour power reserve. With a dark gray finish, the VA01 combines a contemporary look with traditional haute horlogerie decoration.

The bridges feature Côtes de Genève, while the bevels are hand-polished. A custom tungsten rotor bears the Vander Avort name and founding year in relief. The caliber’s dark finish contrasts nicely with the polished rose gold and white gold cases. Each case back also carries the watch’s individual limited-edition number.

Wearing the Vander Avort Lovon

Despite its size, the Lovon wears comfortably on my 18.5cm (7.3″) wrist. The sculpted lugs slope down toward it, while the high-quality leather strap keeps the watch securely in place. Those with smaller wrists, however, may find the case too large.

The Vander Avort team deserves credit for creating a handsome watch. I particularly like its restrained aesthetic, which works best with the darker, moodier dial colors. I did not get to try the silver-dial versions, but I suspect I would still prefer the black, blue, green, and brown options. Of the four watches we had in, the rose gold models with brown and blue dials stood out most.

That surprised me because I usually love the combination of black and rose gold. Here, though, the brown and blue dials have more life and depth. The guilloché pattern also stands out more clearly against those colors.

Ultimately, the blue-dial version was my favorite. That is unusual for me, as I rarely prefer blue over black or brown dials. The dark blue dial in the stainless steel Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is a notable exception, so the Vander Avort Lovon has joined a fairly short list.

Final thoughts on the Vander Avort Lovon collection

On the wrist, the watches have a reassuring heft and feel well made. The finishing is relatively straightforward, but it suits the overall presentation. The crown is particularly satisfying to use. Position one is for adjusting the date, and a pronounced click accompanies each change. Pulling it out to the second position allows you to set the time. The crown action is smooth, and watching the hands move across the dial is a pleasure.

After spending time with the Lovon, I came away impressed. At €38,300, however, these watches have to compete with offerings from some of Switzerland’s most established names. In my view, they haven’t reached that level yet. There is potential here, but the substantial case and the degree of refinement and finishing do not quite match those of established Swiss high-horology brands in the same price bracket.

An exciting adventure that deserves a follow-up

The case is a real highlight, particularly its distinctive lugs and crown. These, along with the guilloché dials, give the Lovon a character I find appealing. I hope all 35 watches find buyers and that this debut gives Maxime Vander Avort and Mathieu Van Eycken the confidence to continue. Their adventure deserves a second chapter.

For more information, visit the official Vander Avort website. You can also book a private viewing of the watches at the brand’s boutique in Louvain, Belgium.

This is a partnership post. Learn more.