Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art
This is not the first time you’ve read about cônillons. Do you still remember what a cônillon is? Let me jog your memory. It is a tilted tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. It’s not a new concept. The American watchmaker Andrew Holden Potter experimented with the system around 1860, but it only recently resurfaced. The nine-piece limited-edition ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art features two cônillons, which are fully visible thanks to the transparent sapphire case. And on top of that, the dial features a plethora of handmade decorations, creating a horological spectacle unlike any other. Now, how does it feel to wear such a rarity?
“Shapely” seems like the most appropriate adjective to describe the case of the ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art. The fully transparent sapphire exterior has a complex, curved tonneau shape, and on the front crystal, two domes catch your eye. The case seems to be in constant motion because of its shape, transparency, and what’s happening inside. And a lot is happening there. The most intriguing technical aspect of this watch is the presence of two cônillons. They spin partly inside the two domes, which act as magnifiers. The transparent case also reveals a movement and a dial featuring all types of handmade decorations. Is there too much to see, and is it too much to wear?
Trying out the ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art
This April, ArtyA introduced the Complexity series, featuring two inclined regulators positioned opposite each other and linked by a central differential. The nine-piece ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art limited edition also features those fascinating tilted, linked tourbillons at 12 and 6 o’clock, but it turns up the decorative side of watchmaking by adding a plethora of handmade decorations. Inside the curved, 42mm-wide, 48mm-long, 13mm-thick sapphire case (14.1mm including the two domes), the dial and movement decorations add another visual dimension to an already spectacular watch.
Now, ArtyA is not a brand that blends in. The Complexity Métiers d’Art proves it. This is definitely not a wallflower of a watch. Still, thanks to its curved shape, the large, expressive timepiece sits very well on the wrist. It does cover a lot of it, but that’s okay; I’d rather look at high-end watchmaking than my wrist. The watch has a provocative quality that’s pleasant instead of shocking. The all-sapphire case’s flowing lines, shapes, and finishing are all delightfully smooth.
The result is a joy to touch, though you might want to be careful not to smudge the pristine surface too much. Complementing the overall softness are the artisanal, handmade decorations on the dial and fully visible movement. These reveal the human touch required to create the watch.
Another level
The Complexity Métiers d’Art is both technically and aesthetically spectacular. The finishing, for instance, is on another level. ArtyA took finishing this watch extremely seriously, giving virtually every visible surface a different treatment. For instance, the mainplate features hand-applied perlage around the differential zone and on the flanks, finished with a delicate matte cabron buff (a special surface-finishing technique). The minute-train bridge on the dial side combines fine sandblasting with a hand-engraved logo, scratch finishing, and hand-beveled edges. The barrel bridge receives perhaps the most varied treatment. It includes hand-hammered lower surfaces, hand-shotblasted upper surfaces, hand beveling, a hand-engraved logo, and carbon-buffed flanks, with the “Swiss Made” inscription applied by laser.
Even the numbered “Complexity” plate is manually engraved and beveled, with drawn strokes adding another layer of texture. Furthermore, the indexes received hand beveling, cabron-buffed sides, and finely sandblasted upper surfaces before being finished in rhodium. ArtyA clearly distinguished between decoration and information, though. Laser engraving is limited to regulatory and technical markings, such as “Swiss Made,” the jewel count, and power-reserve scale. Everything else is done by hand.
Two cônillons for your viewing pleasure
Most of my attention, however, went to the two cônillons spinning under their magnifying domes. By the way, producing the case with the domes takes more than 120 hours of diamond machining and 140 hours of polishing, and according to ArtyA, this can only be done in Switzerland. The result is an unobstructed view of the decorations and the watch’s complicated technical heart.
Seeing a cônillon travel its conical trajectory, compensating for gravity’s effects across several vertical positions at once, is quite the sight. And however impressive and breathtaking the spinning cônillons at 12 and 6 o’clock with their connecting differential are, they also serve a practical purpose. The differential perfectly distributes the barrel’s energy between the two regulators and kinematically averages their rates. They achieve chronometric optimization over 360 degrees, which neither tourbillon alone could do.
A clear ambition
For Yvan Arpa, founder of ArtyA, watchmaking has always been about pushing boundaries, and the Complexity Métiers d’Art is a genuine evolution of the traditional tourbillon. Arpa and the watch clearly aim to take chronometric performance to new heights while delivering an extraordinary mechanical spectacle on the wrist. The angling of the tourbillons, their 12- and 6-o’clock positions, and their rapid 30-second revolutions create an exceptional three-dimensional mechanical construction. Everything is designed to mitigate gravity’s effects as the watch moves through different positions on the wrist.
Rather than simply revisiting a historical mechanism, the Complexity reimagines its possibilities, transforming it into a contemporary expression of both mechanical innovation and artistic freedom. And this pursuit of technical excellence, combined with the desire to create something genuinely unprecedented, defines the Complexity and ArtyA’s approach to haute horlogerie.
Impressive is also the speed at which they turn. Instead of a traditional 60-second tourbillon, the cônillons inside the Complexity Métiers d’Art complete their rotation in 30 seconds. They do so in offset directions, offering an intense kaleidoscopic micromechanical spectacle. The cônillons are part of a hand-wound, 287-part movement operating at 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour). And when fully wound, it provides a power reserve of 50 hours.
Stress-free parts and specs
Contrary to what you might think, the proprietary Complexity-01 caliber, developed in collaboration with Purtec Sàrl in Vallorbe, is remarkably robust. It offers shock resistance that surpasses devices like the gyrotourbillon. Knowing this makes wearing the complicated and costly watch a little less stressful. It helped me to relax a bit and wear it like a regular watch. Well, I tried anyway, but the Complexity Métiers d’Art is nothing like a regular watch. The shape, materials, movement complexity, and intricate finishing and decoration will never let you forget what makes this watch so special.
Final words by Yvan Arpa
After I handed back the watch, I asked Yvan Arpa whether any other rare or unconventional constructions were on the horizon for ArtyA. This was his answer:
“At ArtyA, innovation has never been about introducing novelty for its own sake. Every creation must have a purpose, combining a distinctive artistic identity with genuine horological substance. Our focus today is on celebrating and consolidating the success of our existing collections, particularly the Purity collection, which has established itself as an important expression of ArtyA’s independent approach to haute horlogerie.
We believe that true innovation is not only about developing entirely new complications, but also about perfecting what already makes our creations exceptional. The Purity collection embodies this philosophy, offering a distinctive balance of mechanical sophistication, contemporary design, and the creative independence that defines ArtyA. For us, the priority is to continue delivering exceptional timepieces that reflect our vision of watchmaking today.”
FYI, the Complexity Métiers d’Art will be produced to order. A maximum of nine individually numbered pieces will be available, each for CHF 190,000. Each watch will come on a rubber strap secured by an ArtyA folding clasp. If you want to learn more about the impressive Complexity Métiers d’Art, please visit ArtyA’s website.
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