Every year at Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin graces us with one or two exceptional pieces that show the brand’s magnificent watchmaking tradition. This year, the brand releases the brilliant Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph that is part of the exclusive Collection Excellence Platine. This 50-piece limited edition was created specifically for collectors. It’s a very exclusive edition of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph that first came out in 2020. It combines a tourbillon with a monopusher chronograph for stunning results.

The Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine is an exclusive collection of platinum versions of some of the brand’s best timepieces. They are easily recognizable thanks to the combination of a platinum case with a solid platinum dial and platinum threads for the blue leather strap. A great example is the Historiques American 1921 in platinum that came out in 2021. Robert-Jan reviewed the watch, and I also had a chance to check it out. I found its beauty absolutely mesmerizing. That same year, we also saw the release of the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph. This is another great piece that shows how special this exclusive collection is.

The story of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

Vacheron Constantin will release a special version of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph in 2024. As mentioned, the model was first released in 2020, and it featured a pink gold case with a silvered opaline dial. For the new version, the watch comes with a 950 platinum case, a platinum dial, and a blue alligator strap hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk. The watch is a creation of Vacheron Constantin’s Grand Complications workshop. The result is a watch that perfectly shows what the brand’s high-end complications department is capable of.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

What distinguishes Vacheron Constantin for me compared to other brands is the incredible level of refinement and meticulous eye for detail. The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph is the perfect proof of that. It has details that immediately stand out and make me smile. A quick example is the combination of the railroad tachymeter scale and the minute track. The incredible level of detail is stellar and gives the dial its character.

The details of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

Let’s start at the beginning. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph has a 42.5mm platinum stepped case with a fluted case back and measures only 11.7mm thick. Paired with the case is a sandblasted platinum dial that features the “Pt950” hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock. As mentioned, the dial’s periphery holds the tachymeter scale, and the minute track looks super refined. The 18K white gold applied hour markers are beautifully integrated into the minute track.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

But the big eye-catcher on the dial is undoubtedly the tourbillon at 12 o’clock. With its Maltese cross-shaped carriage, it is one of the most beautiful tourbillons I have ever seen. The carriage features a blued screw for the second indication. Once again, the level of detail that I was talking about was incredible. At 3 o’clock, you will find the counter for the 45-minute monopusher chronograph. The power reserve indicator is located at 6 o’clock and is fairly minimal in its design. But look at how the two sub-dials lie recessed in the platinum dial. It’s another detail that stands out beautifully. Lastly, the brand’s logo sits at 9 o’clock to balance out the design.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine cal. 3200

The in-house-developed Vacheron Constantin caliber 3200

Hovering above the dial are the dauphine hour and minute hands and the blued central chronograph hand. The chronograph hand matches the hands used for the sub-dials and the blue screw in the tourbillon carriage. It makes the dial a balanced display of design combined with a wonderful testament to the brand’s watchmaking skills. If you turn the watch around, you will see the in-house caliber 3200 in full glory. Vacheron Constantin specially developed this movement for the brand’s 260th anniversary in 2015.

The manual-winding movement comprises 292 components, operates at 18,000vph, has 39 jewels, and has 65 hours of power reserve. It also shows immaculate finishing that gives it extra visual impact. The base plate features circular graining, while the bridges are decorated with Geneva stripes. In addition, many components display hand-beveled edges. Lastly, the upper bridge of the tourbillon cage is mirror-polished by hand. It’s a detailed process that takes 11 hours to complete successfully.

Final thoughts on the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap and a platinum folding clasp. Fittingly, this strap is stitched by hand with platinum and silk thread. Once again, it is more proof of the brand’s great eye for detail. But that’s exactly why I love seeing these special releases. While we all know they are for a small group of collectors with deep pockets, it doesn’t mean that we enjoy them. They show the incredible level of Vacheron Constantin’s craftsmanship.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

As I have said, Vacheron Constantin will produce 50 pieces of this special limited edition. Furthermore, the price of this special piece is available on request only. But I have no doubts that the collectors interested in this watch are less interested in the price and just happy to add this to their collections for whatever price is necessary. Who could blame them, right? This is a beautiful piece.

For more information, visit the official Vacheron Constantin website. Let us know our thoughts on this new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine in the comments section.

Watch specifications

Model
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine
Reference
5100T/000P-H041
Dial
Platinum with frosted finish, applied indices, tourbillon aperture, recessed sub-dials, and black
Case Material
Platinum
Case Dimensions
42.5mm (diameter) × 11.7mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Platinum with sapphire crystal, screw-in
Movement
Vacheron Constantin 3200: manual-winding monopusher chronograph with tourbillon, 18,000vph frequency, 65-hour power reserve, 39 jewels, manually finished, bearing Hallmark of Geneva
Water Resistance
3 bar
Strap
Dark blue alligator (22mm width) stitched with silk and platinum thread and with platinum folding clasp
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon), monopusher chronograph (45-minute register and central seconds), power reserve indicator
Price
On request
Special Note(s)
Limited to