Who says you need tons of color options for watches? A. Lange & Söhne is the perfect proof that you don’t. The brand offers carefully created limited color options for every model. A great example is the new Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar. With the introduction of the black and platinum model, the brand has added a third variant to the lineup that is quite distinct from the first two. That’s how A. Lange & Söhne ensures great diversity within a small range of offerings. The latest addition is the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in platinum with a black dial, and the result is stylish.

The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar first debuted in 2021 when A. Lange & Söhne presented two different versions of the watch. The first was a pink gold model with a gray dial, and the second was a limited edition of 150 pieces with a white gold case and a stunning pink gold (or “salmon”) dial. That limited edition sold out quickly, which was quite an achievement as each of the 150 pieces had a list price of €109,000. This time, the Glashütte brand has created a platinum version with a beautiful black dial. Combined with the black leather strap, it creates an almost stealthy presence. But most of all, it oozes style and class.

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Platinum Black Dial

The black-on-black aesthetic is scarce in the Lange 1 lineup

A black dial and black strap combined with a platinum or white gold case is not something we haven’t seen before from A. Lange & Söhne. But after a check of the Lange 1 collection, it turns out that this is only the third current model to feature this aesthetic. The other two are the Lange 1 Moon Phase in 18K white gold and the spectacular Grande Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen in platinum.

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Platinum Black Dial

Let’s go over some basics first. The watch has a 41.9mm platinum case that is 12.1mm thick. As it is quite a substantial watch in size, the weight of the piece will be equally substantial considering the platinum case. The black dial of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is created from solid silver. Immediate eyecatchers within this dark backdrop are the moonphase indicator with its bright blue sparkle of color and the outsize date.

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Platinum Black Dial

The dial design of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

As we are used to from Lange, the designers have done an outstanding job of creating a dial that feels balanced and easy to read, despite the watch being a perpetual calendar. It starts with the off-center time display at 3 o’clock, indicating hours and minutes with rhodiumed gold hands. If you let your eyes follow the dial, you will see the small indicator of the leap year at 6 o’clock. At 7 o’clock, you will find the small seconds sub-dial with the integrated moonphase and day/night indicators. The retrograde day display is located between 8 and 10 o’clock, and at 11 o’clock, you will find the oversized date display. Lastly, a rotating ring on the periphery of the dial indicates the month.

As you can see, all the different elements are perfectly legible. On top of that, the design looks immaculate, as always. There is a certain simplicity to it that is appealing, especially considering the complicated nature of the piece. As you can see in the picture above, the correctors for the calendar displays are located on the left side of the case. It is beautifully finished, with the polished bezel and case back border contrasting with the brushed case band.

The in-house caliber L021.3

Inside the case, A. Lange & Söhne uses its in-house L021.3. This automatic movement is equipped with a unidirectional rotor in 21K gold with a centrifugal mass in 950 platinum. It operates at 21,600vph and delivers 55 hours of power reserve. As we expect from Lange, the movement’s German silver plates and bridges are finished impeccably with perlage, Glashütte stripes, polished bevels, gold chatons, and blued screws. I especially love the majestic-looking rotor and its mix of pebbled and brushed surfaces with the brand’s signature in relief. On top of that, the rotor contrasts nicely with the 950 platinum case back. And, of course, the movement has a hand-engraved floral pattern on the balance cock, as we know from Lange’s other movements.

The calendar indications change instantaneously, so at midnight at the beginning of a new month, you will witness a beautiful display of all the different calendar functions. Additionally, it is worth mentioning that the white gold moon makes one orbit in 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 3 seconds. As a result, the display only has to be corrected by one day every 122.6 years. That is, if you always keep the watch running, of course.

Impressions of the new Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in platinum

Once again, A. Lange & Söhne treats us to a wonderful timepiece that is, mechanically, nothing short of impressive and oozes class and style. From the design of the dial and case to the movement and finishing, it’s a wonderful display of craftsmanship. Is it my favorite out of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar models? As a fan of black dials and black watches, that would be a possibility. But no, that top position for me still goes to the 150-piece limited edition with the salmon dial. That is a classy feast for the eyes, whereas this is a more subdued, almost stealthy piece. I am sure that once on the wrist, the watch is mesmerizing.

Just look at the level of detail on the moonphase indicator. The white gold moon with the little stars behind it looks simply wonderful. Add the snailing on the sub-dials, the typography for the months on the peripheral ring, and the beautiful first letters of the days in the retrograde display, and we have a plethora of details executed to perfection. When you consider that the designers at A. Lange & Söhne created a perpetual calendar that looks legible and functional but with that typical Lange signature, you will understand that this is another great release. The watch is paired with a black alligator leather strap with a pin buckle in platinum, and the price is available upon request. Judging by the previous versions, expect to pay at least €109,000 for this stunning platinum boutique exclusive.

For more information, please visit the official A. Lange & Söhne website.

Watch specifications

Model
Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar
Reference
345.036 E
Dial
Solid silver, black with offset time display, small seconds register with integrated moonphase and day/night indicator, outsize date, retrograde day display, peripheral month ring, and leap year indicator
Case Material
950 platinum
Case Dimensions
41.9mm (diameter) × 12.1mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Platinum with sapphire display
Movement
A. Lange & Söhne L021.3 — self-winding manufacture caliber, 21,600vph frequency, 50-hour power reserve, plates and bridges made of untreated German silver with perlage, striping, polished bevels, gold chatons, blued screws, and hand-engraved balance cock, unidirectional winding rotor in 21K yellow gold with centrifugal mass in 950 platinum
Water Resistance
3 bar
Strap
Black alligator (22mm width) with pin buckle in platinum
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), perpetual calendar (instantaneously advancing outsize date, day, month, and leap year), moonphase display with integrated day/night indicator
Price
Price available upon request