Choosing Between Good And Evil: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond And Spectre Collection

Last week, Omega teased that something Bond-related was coming. If you visited the page for the Seamaster Diver 300M collection on Omega’s website, the brand’s logo would switch to the Spectre logo every few seconds. Today, on Global James Bond Day, we can reveal that the question of whether you pivot to the dark side has never been more relevant than with the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre Collection. For the first time in three decades of collaboration with the 007 franchise, Omega has created both a James Bond version and a Spectre version of its Seamaster Diver 300M. The two watches present very different aesthetics and will appeal to many people, whether they are good or evil. As a result, you just might find yourself choosing Spectre over James Bond. We already had to choose in a hands-on experience.

The question burning in my mind is whether the 007 franchise will soon unveil the new actor who’ll take over as the world’s most famous spy. It’s time for a follow-up to No Time to Die, the movie that ended the Daniel Craig era. What’s even more interesting to me is where the story will go. The Craig era started well with Casino Royale. It left the door wide open to explore the deceitful world of Spectre. In Connery’s time as Bond, the Special Executive for Counter-Intelligence, Terrorism, Revenge, and Extortion was playing chess on multiple levels worldwide. Unfortunately, the movies with Craig took a far simpler approach, focusing on single villains with a personal beef with Bond (Blofeld) or M (Silva). If you ask me, it left a lot of untapped potential on the table that will hopefully be explored in the new era.

The story of the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre Collection

But until we learn where the franchise will go next, Omega is here to remind us of the greatness of the James Bond world. With six new references, the brand unveils an extensive collection with some rather interesting details. The watches launch today, October 5th, also known as Global James Bond Day, chosen because it marks the anniversary of the 1962 world premiere of Dr. No. The two main references are a James Bond Edition and a Spectre Edition of the Seamaster Diver 300M in stainless steel. Omega is also releasing two special Bond and Spectre box sets, each limited to 77. Both contain individually numbered editions of the steel watch and a special platinum model.

We had a chance to check out the two new stainless steel watches. They will be part of Omega’s regular collection, so you have some time to think about your preference. Or should I say that you have some time to think about pivoting to the dark side? After trying both watches, I wouldn’t be surprised if you did. Let’s focus on these two models, and I’ll get back to the special box sets in a bit.

The details of the steel Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Edition

The two watches feature the familiar 42mm stainless steel case with a 50mm lug-to-lug, 14.23mm profile, and 300m depth rating. Both watches also come equipped with the familiar steel mesh bracelet and weigh 158 grams. For the James Bond Edition, Omega uses a Grade 5 titanium bezel insert with a laser-ablated diving scale in relief. Additionally, it has a dot filled with white Super-LumiNova at the 60-minute mark. Inside the case is a deep, dark blue dial featuring a laser-engraved fine-wave pattern. Furthermore, the dial features applied rhodium-plated, diamond-polished luminous indexes. At 12 o’clock, you will find the special Bond coat-of-arms index.

Lastly, the watch has the familiar skeletonized Seamaster Dive 300M handset with white Super-LumiNova. As we know from previous models, the hour and seconds hands light up blue in the dark, in line with the lume used for the indexes, while the lume on the minute hand glows green. It matches the color of the lume pip on the bezel, which the two interact with during diving adventures in low light.

The combination of silver-colored elements and dark blue works really well, resulting in a stylish version of the Seamaster that reminds one of the 36mm ref. 2552.80.00 from the late ’90s and the quartz 41mm ref. 2265.80.00 from the early 2000s. Of the current-generation Seamaster Diver 300M models, the Beijing 2022 Special Edition is the most visually similar to this new James Bond Edition.

The details of the steel Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre Edition

The steel Spectre Edition has a completely different presence. The watch features a black ceramic bezel insert with a laser-ablated diving scale in relief, like the Bond Edition. This bezel style reminds me of my favorite Seamaster Chronograph in Sedna Gold, which I reviewed in 2021. To this day, it’s still one of my favorite Omega watches, and if ever there were a spiritual predecessor to this new Spectre Seamaster, it has to be that watch.

But back to the new stainless steel Spectre Edition. Omega paired the steel case with a grained, matte black aluminum dial featuring applied rhodium-plated, diamond-polished indexes with white Super-LumiNova.

Hovering over the dial is the same handset as used for the James Bond Edition. Both models also feature the signature helium escape valve at 10 o’clock. It’s always a much-debated element, but for me, it wouldn’t be a proper Bond Seamaster without one.

Both watches come on a steel mesh bracelet with an optimized clasp compared to previous releases. The new clasp is slimmer and is easier to open and close. It’s great to see that Omega created a better clasp, as it significantly improves overall comfort.

The Omega caliber 8806 with its custom rotor

Powering both watches is the automatic Omega caliber 8806. The Master Chronometer movement operates at 25,200 vph, offers a 55-hour power reserve, and has 35 jewels. It features a Co-Axial escapement, a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring, magnetic resistance to 15,000 gauss, and an accuracy of 0/+6 seconds per day. But if you turn the two watches around, you’ll see one big difference.

Omega created two custom rotors for the different editions. Each one is visible through the sapphire display in the Naiad-lock case back. The Spectre Edition features the organization’s black logo as a hidden “proof of membership.” The James Bond Edition has a rotor featuring the familiar rhodium-plated gun-barrel decoration. The two rotors are nice hidden touches that ensure these new special editions don’t feel too much like franchise products on the wrist.

Wearing the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre Editions

Speaking of which, wearing the two watches felt like coming home. It instantly reminded me of the time I spent with the standard black version of the dateless Seamaster Diver 300M in 2024. I loved wearing that watch. It was the first regular model with a mesh bracelet and no date after the special 60th-anniversary Bond Edition from 2022 and the No Time To Die model from 2019.

I prefer the Seamaster Diver 300M with a fine-wave dial and no date window. This style adds welcome refinement over the ceramic laser-engraved dials with the wider wave pattern that Omega uses for the Seamaster Diver 300M with a date.

But these two new models come with a welcome update. As mentioned, the clasps are slightly different in shape and a tad slimmer than previous versions. I also found that they were easier to open and close. It’s a very welcome improvement that made wearing the watches even more enjoyable. Yes, the relatively large case and long bracelet mean these watches are substantial, so they’re not for people with small wrists. But when they fit your wrist well, it is a lot of fun to wear them.

Did I pivot to the dark side?

Both versions look great, and the build quality is what we know from Omega. It ensures you can easily make either model your daily wearer without worry. And from my previously stated preference for fine wave-patterned dials, you might think that the James Bond Edition would be an easy choice for me. But you would be wrong. I generally prefer black-dial watches, and with the new black ceramic bezel that reminds me of my favorite Sedna Gold Seamaster, the choice was much harder than you would think. If you ask my friends, they would say the Spectre Edition has my name all over it.

I know that for most people, this choice is much easier because the watches look very different. But I thoroughly enjoyed wearing both and made sure to switch between them to get a better feel for each one. In the end, the James Bond Edition won me over because it feels more refined and detailed, like a proper gentleman’s choice. And that turned out to be the one that I ended up gravitating towards the most. It just feels a bit more special. But I have to say that the rugged feel of the Spectre Edition hit the sweet spot for me sometimes too, so the pull toward the dark side was constantly present.

The special James Bond and Spectre Edition box sets

As mentioned, Omega also unveiled two limited-edition sets, one for James Bond and one for Spectre, in a run of 77 numbered examples each. Every set contains a stainless steel model on a brushed mesh bracelet and a platinum-gold model on a leather strap. Neither watch is sold separately. What sets the limited stainless steel models apart from the regular ones is the individual limited-edition number located on a plate at 9 o’clock. On all four watches, the case back is polished and brushed, follows Omega’s wave-edged design, and is secured by the Naiad Lock.

The bezel insert of the platinum-gold models is polished ceramic, while the diving scale is filled with platinum. Additionally, the dials of both watches are 18K white gold with a PVD gradient. The James Bond version has a blue dial with a gun-barrel pattern, while the Spectre model features a dark gray dial with an intricate octopus pattern. On both, the emblem on the rotor is executed in 18K Moonshine Gold for extra visual impact.

The two limited-edition sets come in a special presentation box with an additional NATO strap and strap-changing tool, cufflinks, a cord bracelet, a loupe, a leather travel pouch and card holder, and a certificate of authenticity.

The blue James Bond box set features strap keepers engraved with “007” and a blue travel pouch. The black Spectre set has strap keepers with the organization’s logo and a black travel pouch. Both of these limited-edition sets retail for €88,500 (incl. VAT) / US$89,800 (excl. sales tax) / CHF 70,000 (excl. VAT).

Final thoughts on the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre Collection

While these box sets are impressive, most of us are more interested in the two regular stainless steel versions. And I have to say that I really enjoyed spending time with both of them. The slight optimizations to the clasp make the watches just a bit more comfortable. On top of that, the two present an aesthetic that fits the Seamaster really well. That’s why I think many Seamaster fans will jump at the chance to get one of these, regardless of the Bond-related story.

Having said that, the impact of 007 is grand. These two new watches really made me crave the next chapter in the story of the world’s most famous spy. If you follow the Bond franchise, you know that there has been a lot going on behind the scenes. With the Broccoli family signing a joint-venture deal with Amazon MGM Studios, we have entered a new era for Bond.

Amazon now has full creative control, and we still have to find out what that means. But I can’t wait to see the first steps toward the release of the first movie in that new era. If anything, these two watches are great reminders of why I love the Bond story so much and why it is great to see this longstanding partnership always leading to interesting new releases.

Is it going to be Bond of Spectre?

Both the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Edition and Spectre Edition in stainless steel will be available for €8,500 (incl. VAT) / US$8,700 (excl. sales tax) / CHF 6,700 (excl. VAT). It makes these special editions slightly more expensive than the regular dateless versions of the Seamaster. Then again, the price is in line with previous Bond editions, and these new models fit the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bond lineage perfectly. On top of that, they are a great reminder that we need more James Bond in our lives…or Spectre, depending on which you prefer.