Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Datejust 36 “Ombré” Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB015 “Lake Suwa”
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! The days are getting shorter and colder in this part of the world, but that won’t stop our writers’ burning horological passion. This week, Jorg and Daan decided to pit the ombré-dial Rolex Datejust 36 and Grand Seiko SLGB015 “Lake Suwa” against each other. Both watches are moderately sized, sport a date complication, and are extremely accurate on their own terms. Most importantly, though, they are personal favorites, so get ready for a heated debate.
These watches aren’t even that far apart price-wise. With the fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet (Jorg’s preferred configuration), the stainless steel Datejust 36 with a green ombré dial retails for €9,995. Daan’s pick, the 37mm Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGB015, costs €10,400. Which one would you pick if you had €10,000 to burn? Hold that thought, because before we get to this week’s battle, let’s look at last week’s result.
Previously, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Last week, the new Orient Flusso tried to take on the ever-popular Tissot PRX. The latter has been a fan favorite among affordable integrated-bracelet watches for years now. The Orient Flusso takes its design inspiration from the 1970s and ’80s Super King (or “SK”) models, and it only costs €299. But while it’s significantly more affordable, it was no match for the €775 PRX. Sure, the Flusso represents better value for money and has a cleaner dial design. However, some readers saw the four recesses in the case as “gunk catchers” or a superficial nod to historical designs. PRX fans, on the other hand, praised their champion for its superior movement, better finishing, cohesive design, and higher perceived quality. All of this gave them enough reasons to justify the PRX’s higher price. In the end, Jorg’s PRX won with an impressive 72% of the votes. Now, let’s see if Rolex or Grand Seiko will triumph today!
Daan: Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB015 “Lake Suwa”
Good morning, everyone. Not long after Watches and Wonders, we went to the Rolex office in Brussels to get a closer look at some of the brand’s novelties. I remember how Jorg was over the moon with the Datejust 36 and its new lacquered, gradient green dial. I’ll admit, along with the two-tone 100th-anniversary Oyster Perpetual, I found this new Datejust variant quite impressive. For some reason, though, the Datejust isn’t for me. In particular, I find the combination of the fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet a bit too blingy.
However, I do agree with Jorg that it’s the only worthwhile way to configure a Datejust. If you’re not that kind of guy, like me, just get yourself a more toned-down OP. That’s exactly what I did with my Rolex Explorer ref. 114270. It’s a tad sportier and more modest than the Datejust, just the way I like. The same goes for the 37mm Grand Seiko SLGB015 “Lake Suwa.” With its perfectly polished bevels and sharply cut hands and hour markers, it’s elegant enough, but it doesn’t scream for attention like the Datejust’s fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet.
Jump into Lake Suwa with me
The SLGB015’s most eye-catching element is its Lake Suwa-inspired dial. I still remember when we had the new Spring Drive U.F.A. models in the office. The gently rippled texture and deep blue metallic hue make it look like you can jump into the lake at any moment. Honestly, I’m usually not the biggest fan of Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired dials because they can be a bit over the top. However, this deep blue Lake Suwa iteration is right up my alley.
When looking closely at the dial, it’s easy to get taken in by the tranquil texture. Thankfully, though, it’s not overpowering when you just want to check the time. Like the overall finishing, it’s executed to perfection and beautiful to look at, but it doesn’t scream for attention.
A deviation of ±20 seconds per year
The other impressive thing about the SLGB015 is Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement with the Ultra Fine Accuracy designation. The 9RB2 debuted last year, and Jorg explained how “Grand Seiko improved the accuracy of the new caliber by developing a three-month-aged quartz oscillator and a newly designed integrated circuit. Additionally, the brand measures the frequency of each quartz oscillator at several temperatures. To protect the oscillator and sensor from external factors and minimize temperature differences, Grand Seiko vacuum seals both. This ensures precise temperature adjustments and the stable performance of the quartz oscillator. Lastly, the new caliber features a regulation switch for correcting the accuracy when the watch is in for service.”
Caliber 9RB2 in the Grand Seiko SLGB005
Honestly, I’m not a very technical guy, and all this still sounds a bit like gibberish to me. However, thanks to this innovation, the SLGB015 is the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch today. It is accurate to ±3 seconds per month, which Grand Seiko averages to ±20 seconds per year. I know it’s not fully mechanical like the Datejust, but that’s still very impressive. But the best part is the mesmerizing seconds hand that seems to float around the dial. Finally, you can view the beautifully finished caliber and its power reserve indicator through the case back’s sapphire display.
A great watch to wear
Of course, in addition to its impressive finishing, dial design, and accuracy, the Grand Seiko SLGB015 is lovely on the wrist. The perfectly brushed and polished 37mm Evolution 9 case has an 11.4mm profile and a 44.3mm lug-to-lug. It fits my 17cm wrist exceptionally well, and thanks to the new clasp, I can adjust it without any tools. I know Rolex bracelets are some of the best in the industry, but I dare say that Grand Seiko isn’t far behind anymore.
In conclusion, if I had to choose between these specific Rolex and the Grand Seiko models, I’d pick the latter. The SLGB015 is exciting when you look closely at its impressive details, but it’s also very balanced and modest when it needs to be. All right, Jorg, now you tell me why you prefer the almighty Datejust.
Jorg: Rolex Datejust 36 “Ombré” ref. 126234-0059
Thanks, Daan! First, I must admit that this is a tough battle. I’m also a bit surprised you didn’t use the purple-dial Grand Seiko SLGB005 against me. Essentially, it is the same watch as the SLGB015 you picked, just with a different dial, and it was one of my favorite releases of 2025. One glance at that watch instantly makes me fall back in love with its stunning dial. So why doesn’t it beat the Datejust? Let me explain.
Basically, my love for the Rolex Datejust runs a lot deeper. It’s one of The Crown’s defining models and, in my view, the quintessential luxury watch. Consequently, it has long been on the shortlist of watches I will chase at some point. Currently, the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 is my primary Rolex focus, but a nice Datejust takes second place. And that’s where it gets interesting because there are so many references to choose from.
The Datejust ref. 1601 was long my preferred choice
As you said, Daan, I believe a 36mm model with a white gold fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet is the best Datejust configuration. Seeing and trying the new Datejusts with the green ombré lacquer dials in various sizes and executions solidified that opinion. The 36mm Datejust has spot-on proportions, the fluted bezel is a signature look, and the Jubilee bracelet offers optimal comfort and style. While modern Rolexes are flashier than vintage ones, I don’t find that an issue with the modern Datejust. I love the combination of brushed and polished elements with the white gold bezel as the cherry on top.
Like so many watch enthusiasts, though, I focused on a classic reference for a long time. The Datejust ref. 1601 is king, as Thomas explained in one of his many Datejust articles, and I take a Datejust expert’s confirmation of my preferences very seriously. All jokes aside, I agree that the 1601 is the quintessential Datejust that introduced the look we know today. Vintage Datejusts also tend to be less expensive than many other vintage Rolexes. A nice 1601 can be yours for between €4.5k and €5.5k, and add roughly €1k if you want one with box and papers in great condition. This will buy you a brilliant classic that never goes out of style.
The magic of the new Datejust with the green ombré dial
Our visit to the Rolex offices in Brussels earlier this year was my first experience that challenged the 1601’s supremacy. The wonderful green ombré dials show stunning depth. They reminded me of some Grand Seiko dials, including the stellar purple one I love so much, and instantly brought these Datejusts to the top of my list.
After putting the 36mm model with the fluted bezel on my wrist, I was instantly sold. As soon as I closed the clasp and rolled my wrist to admire the new dial, the primal feeling of desire watch fans know all too well took hold of me. I was ready to end the meeting, walk out of the room with the Datejust, and be a happy man. I don’t experience that often, but I knew I had found a new Rolex favorite.
Even rationally, the modern Datejust is the perfect daily watch. It has wonderful build quality and an accurate, reliable movement, making the new 126234 better for daily wear than the classic 1601. Does it beat Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive caliber 9RB2? Accuracy-wise, at ±2 seconds per day, it does not. But combining its still-impressive numbers with the romance of a mechanical movement makes it my favorite. Don’t get me wrong, Daan; I love Spring Drive technology as the result of Grand Seiko’s quest for the ultimate in timekeeping. Nevertheless, my love for mechanical watches outshines it.
The reasons I prefer the Datejust 36
That brings me back to where I started. For me, the Datejust beats the Grand Seiko SLGB015 in heritage and its status as the quintessential luxury watch. The new Datejust 36 combines a spectacular green ombré dial with modern build quality, making it a brilliant contemporary take on a Rolex classic without losing its unmistakable character. More importantly, though, my reaction to wearing it was very different from how I felt about the blue-dial SLGB015 or even the purple-dial SLGB005. With those, I thought, “It would be nice to own this someday.” The Datejust, on the other hand, sparked a much stronger reaction: “I need this!” And that’s why I’d pick the Rolex Datejust 36 with the green ombré dial every time.
Time to vote!
And just like that, the time to cast your votes has come. You’ve heard Daan and Jorg make their cases for their contenders, but ultimately, the choice is yours. Will you vote for the impressively accurate Grand Seiko SLGB015 or choose the iconic Datejust with its fresh ombré dial? Make sure to vote and comment below, and we’ll catch you next week for another Sunday Morning Showdown!
