Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Reinvents The Datograph Perpetual With A New Platinum Bracelet
Last month, I traveled to Hampton Court Palace for the 15th edition of the Concours of Elegance. Returning to the Tudor palace grounds for a 12th year, the event once again gathered 80 of the world’s most significant historic automobiles beneath the ancient yew trees.
As always, the cars were the main attraction. From pre-war Grand Prix racers to modern hypercars, there was plenty to see, hear, and smell throughout the weekend. The winning car ultimately proved to be one of the oldest on display. This 1928 Mercedes-Benz 710 SSK Rennwagen claimed Best in Show during its first appearance at a UK event.
CEO Wilhelm Schmid
However, while the cars may have drawn the crowds, I was equally interested in what the presenting partner A. Lange & Söhne brought along. Alongside presentations from CEO Wilhelm Schmid and Director of Product Development Anthony de Haas, the brand offered a glimpse of a major release that would only be officially announced today.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual
We had already seen new 1815 Up/Down executions and the platinum Triple Split, but none commanded the same attention as the watch debuting today.
The new Datograph Perpetual with a 950 platinum bracelet and baguette-cut diamond indexes feels like A. Lange & Söhne at its most confident. Rather than pursuing sportiness, the Saxon manufacture has created something closer to high jewelry, pairing one of its most celebrated complications with a bracelet style deeply rooted in the company’s modern history.
The five-row bracelet immediately recalls the famed Wellendorff-supplied bracelets offered during the early years following Lange’s revival. Available for models including the Lange 1 and Datograph, these elaborate bracelets often added tens of thousands of euros to the purchase price. As a result, relatively few were sold, and even fewer survived. Many unsold ones were later melted down and recycled into watch cases, making original examples exceptionally scarce today.
Over time, those bracelets developed an almost mythical status among collectors. Produced in 18K yellow, pink, or white gold, as well as 950 platinum, surviving examples now command extraordinary premiums on the secondary market. Occasionally, they even rival the value of the watches they accompanied.
A Lange-designed bracelet
This new bracelet marks a return to that aesthetic but not through a renewed partnership with Wellendorff. Instead, A. Lange & Söhne designed the entire bracelet in-house.
Wellendorff today focuses exclusively on jewelry and no longer produces watch bracelets. While Lange gained valuable experience creating the bracelet for the Odysseus, the philosophy here is quite different. This bracelet is intended as a piece of jewelry rather than an attempt to transform the Datograph Perpetual into a sports watch. There is no fine-adjustment system like that found on the Odysseus. Instead, a nicely engraved push-button clasp and flowing links place the emphasis squarely on the polished and brushed finishing and precious-metal construction.
That attention to detail extends to the dial. Eleven baguette-cut diamond hour markers totaling 0.13 carats add a subtle touch of brilliance without overwhelming the design. Gem-set Lange watches remain relatively uncommon, making this execution feel all the more special. The black dial, crafted from 925 silver, keeps the overall presentation grounded and highly legible. Around the perimeter sits the tachymeter scale, interrupted only by the arcing A. Lange & Söhne signature above 12 o’clock.
Two decades of the Datograph Perpetual
The Datograph Perpetual has been one of Lange’s flagship complications since its 2006 introduction, which makes this year its 20th anniversary. Combining a flyback chronograph with an instantaneous perpetual calendar, it remains one of the most accomplished expressions of the Datograph.
Naturally, the dial carries a significant amount of information. At 8 o’clock, the sub-dial combines the day display, running seconds, and day/night indicator. Opposite, the 4 o’clock register incorporates the month display, elapsed-minute counter, and leap-year cycle. Balancing the display are two Lange signatures — the outsize date at 12 o’clock and the moonphase display with a solid gold moon disc at 6.
Despite the complexity, the familiar Datograph layout remains remarkably coherent and surprisingly easy to read. That said, this Datograph Perpetual features no luminescence.
An impeccable caliber
The 950 platinum case measures 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm thick. Those dimensions are substantial but necessary to accommodate the manually wound L952.1 caliber.
Comprising 556 individual components, the movement remains one of the finest showcases of German watchmaking in production today. Viewed through the case back’s sapphire display, it reveals a breathtaking combination of finishes. Lange’s untreated German silver plates and bridges feature Glashütte ribbing, while finely beveled edges, mirror polishing, and the hand-engraved balance cock provide a level of artistry that few manufacturers can rival.
The combination of perpetual calendar and flyback chronograph already makes the movement technically impressive. The finishing elevates it further, transforming the caliber into a veritable visual spectacle.
On the wrist
As you might expect, combining a platinum bracelet with one of Lange’s most complicated movements results in a watch with considerable heft. I didn’t weigh it, but I would not be surprised if it approached 300 grams.
Remarkably, it wears better than the numbers might suggest. After a short period, I naturally compensated for the weight, although the watch never let me forget that it’s crafted from one of the densest precious metals available.
While the diamonds sparkle and the platinum bracelet borders on the extravagant, the Datograph Perpetual remains surprisingly intuitive to use. The cushion-shaped pushers operate with a smooth, satisfying action thanks to the lateral clutch and column wheel, and the flyback function instantly returns the rhodiumed steel chronograph-seconds hand to zero and restarts timing.
Particularly useful is the corrector pusher at 10 o’clock, which advances all the calendar indications and moonphase display. However, to avoid accidental changes, it only does so when the crown is pulled out. With a relatively modest 36-hour power reserve due to the movement’s complexity, this functionality makes resetting the watch significantly less daunting if it runs out of power.
Final thoughts and pricing
The new Datograph Perpetual on the platinum bracelet doesn’t feel like A. Lange & Söhne chasing trends. If anything, it feels like the company revisiting a largely forgotten chapter of its modern history and executing it to an even higher standard.
The bracelet may draw the initial attention, but the watch succeeds because it remains unmistakably a Datograph Perpetual. The diamonds are restrained, the bracelet is beautifully paired with the case, and the movement remains among the finest in contemporary watchmaking.
As you might expect, this is a highly specialized creation. The Datograph Perpetual on a platinum bracelet is limited to 50 pieces, with each watch individually numbered on the case back. The price is available upon request, though I would expect it to be around €250,000.
You can learn more about the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual on the brand’s website here.
