Introducing A New Independent Watchmaker In Town: Mathieu Cleguer And His Inspiration One

Even if this is the first time that the name “Cleguer” appears on a watch, founder Mathieu Cleguer is far from a newbie. The Breton watchmaker came through the ranks at several high-end independents, working on the technical teams. Now, though, he truly spreads his wings and releases his first creation, the Cleguer Inspiration One.

This debut creation kicks down the door with a big statement. After all, not many watchmakers debut with a brand-new, proprietary escapement. There’s plenty to unpack here, so let’s dive in!

Mathieu Cleguer

Mathieu Cleguer intended to pursue a technical career in the automotive industry. It goes to show that life regularly throws curveballs, as it was at the Paris Motorshow in 2006 that Cleguer stumbled upon a watch brand’s booth and fell in love. He decided to pursue a technical career in watchmaking instead. We’re glad that he did.

Mathieu went to the HE-ARC school in Neuchâtel, studying micro-mechanics. He set out to gain experience at a handful of independent watch brands, working on the technical teams. After learning the ropes, he finally decided it was time to branch out. The Inspiration One is Cleguer’s debut watch, and it is a promising one, to put it mildly.

Watchmaking philosophy

Now, the watch world has no shortage of brands in any segment. Naturally, then, we have to ask: what does Cleguer intend to do differently? Where is the unique added value? Well, a few things immediately jump out in this sense.

For starters, anyone reading the brand’s website will notice the frequent use of the word “architecture.” Now, I know this term isn’t universally loved, but it makes sense here. Cleguer calls it “Engineering as a creative act,” and it entails the idea of bringing mechanical choices in line with an overarching design philosophy. “Each component is considered not only for its function, but [also] for its position within a larger mechanical composition.”

Typically, most higher-end independents rely on either design or technical watchmaking. Cleguer sees it as its mission to bring the two together. Clearly a technical watchmaker, he aims to tell a story within the mechanical watchmaking itself. This philosophy is clearly apparent in the Inspiration One. The dial side appears as a typical openworked modern haute horlogerie creation. Upon closer inspection, though, it reveals great consideration and refinement in its approach.

The Cleguer Inspiration One

Okay, so let’s have a closer look at the Cleguer Inspiration One. The initial version features a 38.5mm by 12mm titanium case. This version, of which 12 were made, is already sold out. Cleguer will make a total of 80 pieces in five metals. Lastly, 20 will be executed as unique pieces. Coming up next is a gold version, which costs CHF 95,300.

The big novelty here is the so-called “innate escapement.” It takes the double-wheel layout of a natural escapement and adds the self-starting capabilities and tangential action of a Fasoldt escapement. The result is an escapement that is both friction-free and self-starting. Its oversized balance wheel, visually, plays second fiddle only to the grand feu enameled dial. The twin wheels are visible through apertures in the mainplate and through the display case back. This hand-wound movement ticks at 18,000 vibrations per hour. Its power reserve would be 55 hours, but Cleguer limits it to 36. This ensures even torque throughout. A subtle power reserve indicator sits at 11 o’clock.

The Inspiration One is all about visual hierarchy. This largely comes down to the use of depth. The eye easily travels from the enameled dial to the barrel behind it and, finally, to the escapement below. The sweeping curved top plate accentuates this counterclockwise motion. Very clever, Cleguer!

A closer look at some of the details

You would be excused for thinking the dial was sterile in terms of branding. The brand name, however, sits hidden as an engraving on the rehaut. Still, Mathieu nods at his Breton roots with the icon used as a 12 o’clock marker.

The Inspiration One shows several high-end finishing techniques. From the grand feu dial to the media-blasted plates, Geneva striping, and soleilage, it is all quite traditional, rooting the Inspiration One in classical watchmaking. You will even find anglage with sharp internal angles.

This nicely contrasts more characteristic cues, such as purple accents on the dial and the split top surface of the lugs. I also particularly enjoy the ultra-fine seconds track right under the crystal’s edge. As a result, the slender seconds hand extends beyond the caliber, making it feel almost separate from the rest of the watch underneath. It is subtle features like this that make a watch feel special, and I think the Cleguer Inspiration One does.

Closing thoughts on the Cleguer Inspiration One

Mathieu Cleguer set lofty ambitions for his solo debut. Although I haven’t yet handled the Inspiration One, it certainly seems like he is off to a great start. Admittedly, when I first caught a quick glimpse of the Inspiration One, my initial reaction was, “Ah, another indie that looks kind of like that.” Upon closer inspection, though, it becomes very clear that Cleguer isn’t like the others. There is a ton of attention to detail on display here.

This may be one of Mathieu’s challenges going forward. We — regrettably, I might add — live in a time of ultra-short attention spans. By contrast, Cleguer takes a bit of effort to grasp completely. The brand’s philosophy, watchmaking prowess, and design aren’t presented in the bite-sized chunks we are being fed all day, every day. You have to take a little time to understand and appreciate what’s on offer here. I happen to have some experience playing that game, and it certainly isn’t the easy path. I sincerely hope Cleguer succeeds in slowing people down enough to understand his approach.

All in all, the Cleguer Inspiration One leaves me impressed and eager to go hands-on with one. To see a one-man operation yield something this polished as his debut commands respect. Similarly, to see an individual stick his neck out and pour his heart and soul into an ambitious endeavor like this is inspiring. I, for one, am cheering Mathieu on.

What do you think of the Cleguer Inspiration One? Let us know in the comments section below!