Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Original
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another showdown! This week’s battle pits two modern versions of classic chronographs against each other. Mike picked the recently revamped Breitling Chronomat, while Jorg picked the Zenith Chronomaster Original, the modern version of the Zenith El Primero A386. The roots of the Zenith date back to 1969, while the Chronomat name goes all the way back to the 1940s. But the modern version of Breitling’s classic chronograph takes inspiration from the Chronomat that debuted in the 1980s. Which of the two will get more love in this installment of Sunday Morning Showdown?
One glance at the spec sheet will reveal a notable size difference between today’s contenders. Still, we like to think that choosing between the two is far more fundamental than a rundown of the specs. It’s a choice between two brands known for their chronographs. Nevertheless, the two are completely different in style and story. That’s why it’s easy to see that many of our readers won’t have any trouble choosing one. In terms of pricing, the two are close, which is an important reason behind this matchup. Mike’s new Chronomat retails for €9,600 on the Rouleaux bracelet, while Jorg’s Chronomaster Original is slightly more expensive at €10,800. Let’s find out which of the two will come out on top.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Before we let Mike and Jorg go at it, let’s quickly look at last week’s results. In one of the most crushing defeats ever in this series, the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop didn’t stand a chance against the Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch. The MoonSwatch took a whopping 86% of the votes, leaving the Royal Pop with 14%. A quick check shows it’s the biggest win in the past three years, even surpassing when the MoonSwatch beat the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 2024 with 81% of the votes. The comments section featured a lively discussion with many strong opinions on both watches, but many clearly favored the MoonSwatch. After such a decisive victory for the MoonSwatch, we expect today’s battle to be a lot closer. Now, over to Mike and Jorg.
Jorg: Zenith Chronomaster Original
Here we are again, Mike, with another matchup of two classic chronographs. When it comes to those, it is hard for me not to pick any option from Zenith, whether it be the Chronomaster Revival, the Chronomaster Original, or the A384 and A386, as we would refer to them. Some readers might wonder why we didn’t put the Chronomat against the Chronomaster Sport. It is a legitimate question, and they might even be a better match in terms of dimensions. But we wanted to create a matchup between two classics rather than watches with matching spec sheets. In our opinion, the story and the legacy of today’s contestants are far more important. That’s why we ended up picking the Chronomaster Original over the Chronomaster Sport.
I would have been fine defending either, to be honest. I have gone on record here on Fratello multiple times explaining that I am a Zenith fan. The brand’s Chronomaster lineup includes some of my favorite releases of the past few years. For me, the combination of Zenith’s adventurous design ethos — which is deeply rooted in the brand’s DNA — and the legendary El Primero calibers creates watchmaking brilliance that is hard to top. You could argue that the modern Breitling Chronomat doesn’t offer the same ingredients, and there is some truth to that.
What happened to the Breitling Chronomat?
Let me start by saying that I like the modern Breitling Chronomat for multiple reasons. First, its design is based on the 1980s Chronomat, which I consider one of the defining watches of that decade. The design, with the Rouleaux bracelet and the bezel featuring its signature rider tabs, makes for a proper classic that contributed greatly to the resurgence of mechanical watches.
That’s why I was excited to see Breitling bring back the look with the introduction of the previous generation Chronomat in 2020. The copper- and panda-dial versions of that Chronomat are still two of the best-looking modern chronographs. Especially on the Rouleaux bracelet, the watches look really cool because of the seemingly effortless flow of the design, which I adore.
But on the wrist, I found the watches too big every time. It’s just about the 42mm diameter because I can easily pull off a chronograph that size. But add the 15.1mm thickness and 50.5mm length, and the Chronomat felt larger than it should. On top of that, while I adore the design of the Rouleaux bracelet, it’s not the most flexible and doesn’t wrap itself nicely around the wrist. As a result, the wearing experience wasn’t on par with my love for the design.
The Zenith is still better than the updated Chronomat
With the updated Chronomat, Breitling addressed the size issues. In particular, the slimmer 13.77mm profile is a welcome change that makes it more wearable. On top of that, the Chronomat now has a much friendlier 45.8mm length, a nearly 5mm reduction compared to its predecessor, as Lex explained. It’s a remarkable update, especially considering the two generations house the same Breitling in-house B01 caliber.
And while we are at it, Tudor also significantly slimmed down its Black Bay Chrono with the new 39mm “Bumblebee,” which has a movement based on the B01. It makes me question the design decisions both brands made with their previous releases. I’m sure if you ask the brands, there are valid reasons that led to these choices.
But for watch enthusiasts, wearability is absolutely key when choosing a watch, and neither did deliver in that department. It’s great to see that Breitling addressed that with the new Chronomat. Nevertheless, I still have a gripe with the new model. As a result of the design update, the watch has lost its natural flow from the case to the bracelet. I’m sure it’s another deliberate choice to increase wearability, but now I miss the brilliance of the previous version. Does that mean you can’t have it all?
Zenith got it right the first time with the Chronomaster Original
This brings me to the Zenith Chronomaster Original. Zenith didn’t waste any time and did it right the first time around. Let’s quickly look at the dimensions of the movements and then move into the actual dimensions of both watches. Breitling’s B01 measures 30mm in diameter and is 7mm thick. Zenith’s El Primero 3600 caliber that powers the Chronomaster Original measures 30mm in diameter and is 6.6mm thick.
So the El Primero caliber is only 0.4mm thinner. But if we then look at the dimensions of the Chronomaster, it measures a beautiful 38mm in diameter, 12.9mm in thickness, and 47mm from lug to lug. Creating an automatic chronograph under 13mm thick is worth a compliment. It gets even better considering that the Chronomaster’s domed sapphire crystal adds to the thickness. Overall, the Zenith is still a substantial 0.87mm thinner than the updated Chronomat.
The variety of the Zenith Chronomaster Original is striking
It translates to a watch that sits beautifully on pretty much any wrist size. Despite the modest 38mm case size, the substantial 47mm lug-to-lug gives the watch great wrist presence. Speaking of which, the combination of the case and the iconic dial design with its tricolor sub-dials is wonderful. And the best thing is that the designers nailed the design in 1969 with the A386. The modern Chronomaster Original uses the same case and dial design. It’s that story of getting it right the first time around that makes the Chronomaster so special to me.
This perfect canvas from the late ’60s allows Zenith to change colors and create brilliant versions of the Chronomaster Original, whether it is the modern version of the original A386 with a white dial or the versions with a blue or black dial. And that’s just the beginning, because the reverse-panda-dial version and the Hodinkee Limited Edition perfectly show the great variety possible without changing the watch’s basics.
And the best thing is that every version looks inherently different, with the different Chronomats appearing as simple dial variations. That’s where the magic of design comes into play. Add that to the wonderful canvas of the case, the dial design, and the El Primero caliber, and you have a winning combination that is so much more than the sum of its parts. It’s the magic that easily makes me pick the Zenith Chronomaster Original every time, no matter how much I like the Breitling Chronomat.
Mike: Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42
Oof, my pal Jorg has come out fighting after his vacation! He’s done a great job representing one of my favorite modern chronographs, the Zenith Chronomaster Original. Yes, it’s a lovely watch, but it has some competition this week. In the opposite corner of our proverbial boxing ring stands the newly updated Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42. Yes, believe it or not, the previous version had been with us for more than six years, so change was due.
Still 42mm but more versatile
From a nomenclature perspective, the Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 is unchanged. However, the most significant difference is the case. For good or for bad, the defined lugs from the last generation have given way to a hooded lug design. The look is clean, and it combines with a new, shorter 45.8mm length. That’s nearly 5mm less than the last model, which already fit my small wrist better than it should. Still, the watch retains a 200m depth rating. The bottom line is that this Chronomat is ready for just about anyone.
A highly recognizable design
There’s no mistaking the newest Breitling for anything but a Chronomat. The signature triple-register dial and inner tachymeter scale aren’t massive departures from its predecessor. Keen eyes will note, however, that the 1/100th scale has disappeared. For me, that’s fine, as it reduces clutter on the dial. Also, other signature traits have made the cut. The bezel, with its rider tabs, is back again, but the tabs are no longer removable. That’s a shame, but it seems Breitling was after a smoother look. The domed, fluted crown remains and is now surrounded by less prominent crown guards. Simple polished pump pushers are there to operate the chronograph. All told, this is a clean-looking design!
Long live the Rouleaux bracelet!
Both the Chronomaster Original and the Chronomat once had legendary bracelet designs. However, whereas the Zenith trades its ladder style for something more traditional, the Breitling powers forward with a modern Rouleaux. That’s a big difference, as this bracelet is a truly endearing feature for the watch. Plus, it offers microadjustment within the push-button butterfly clasp. I’ve tried the modern Rouleaux, and despite Jorg’s complaints, I found it wonderfully comfortable.
The B01 is a great movement
The B01 caliber isn’t new, but Breitling continues to step up its finishing game. Now, the mainplate and the rotor contain Côtes de Genèvefinishing, which catches the light nicely. Otherwise, this column-wheel-equipped movement is a COSC-certified chronometer and has 70 hours of power reserve. It contributes to an overall 13.7mm profile for this watch.
Time to choose
The new Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 in steel retails for €9,600, which undercuts the Zenith Chronomaster Original by €1,200. That’s relatively significant and worth keeping in mind. Then again, perhaps it’s not a factor. Yet, you do need to choose whether Breitling’s newest chronograph is more to your liking than the decidedly retro Chronomaster Original. Cast your vote, then let us know why you chose the way you did!
