The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: How The Tudor Black Bay Pro Became The Best Watch I Almost Owned

Exactly a month ago, Thomas kicked off a series on the best watches we’ve ever owned. The idea is for each writer to describe his favorite watch, the one that served him most loyally and brought the most joy. Mine comes with a twist: it’s a watch I never technically owned, yet for over a year it lived on my wrist as if I did. When I finally had to say goodbye to the Tudor Black Bay Pro, I knew that wasn’t the end of the story. It’s a story that will get a next chapter soon. Let me explain how this all came about.

As often happens, this story doesn’t start with a Tudor but with a Rolex. If you are a regular Fratello reader, you will know that the number 1 watch on my wishlist is a Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600. I was lucky enough to wear multiple versions for extended periods. Had I spent the money on one in the past 20 years, this story would have been about the Sea-Dweller. But that didn’t happen, and so it remains at the top of my wishlist. That’s also how this story pivots to a Tudor. But not after explaining a bit more about the Rolex that started it all. Because it wasn’t the Sea-Dweller.

The love for Rolex runs deep…

As many watch fans, I have a huge soft spot for Rolex. It’s a personal connection based on several stories. First, the brand has been a long-time sponsor of my beloved sport of tennis. Ever since I started watching tennis as a young boy, I would always see the Rolex name pop up on the scoreboard on center court. On top of that, I would always see the Rolex ads in the many tennis and car magazines that my dad bought. It created a sense of admiration for the brand that never left. I wrote a series of articles a few years ago discussing the many great ads The Crown created over the decades, and it clearly shows that the brand was always able to touch readers’ hearts with brilliant stories.

Rolex Submariner ref. 16610LV “The Kermit”

When I finally started exploring the world of watches in the early 2000s, there were a few brands that I loved. The first was Omega because I grew up seeing my dad wear his beloved Omega Seamaster De Ville, which he bought with money he saved from his first job. A second was Rolex. In the early 2000s, the brand had some wonderful timepieces in its collection that I still adore today. The first that comes to mind is the Rolex Submariner ref. 16610LV “The Kermit.” Two other models that followed a bit later are the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116718LN and the Rolex Milgauss ref. 116400GV. Great watches that you could actually buy in those days when walking into a Rolex boutique. But it wasn’t just about the new watches, because, as most of you will know, the magic of Rolex often lies in the brand’s rich past.

Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675

Pivoting towards the Tudor Black Bay Pro

That’s also where the story of the Black Bay Pro starts. Once you get familiar with Rolex’s rich past, you will eventually create a list of favorite classics. For me, that list has always consisted of classics like the GMT-Master ref. 1675, the Pre-Daytona ref. 6238, the Daytona Paul Newman ref. 6241, and the Explorer II ref. 1655. That last watch has always been the ultimate Rolex tool watch for me because of the way it looked.

Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655

The robust stainless steel case with the stainless steel bezel, the quirky two-scale dial, and the large arrow-shaped hand looked wildly different from its peers. I liked that oddball look a lot because it oozes character. But with a classic Rolex also comes a price tag. While the GMT-Master ref. 1675 was still relatively affordable until roughly ten years ago, the Explorer II ref. 1655 always came with a price tag well over €10K. Even two decades ago, asking prices were between €10k and €15k, making this a classic I adore but quickly labeled unobtainium.

When Tudor launched the Black Bay Pro in 2022, it was the talk of the town during Watches and Wonders. If you were a Fratello reader back then, you will undoubtedly remember Lex’s controversial article questioning whether Tudor showed its true face as “A Poor Man’s Rolex.” It was based on the release of the Black Bay Pro, which resembles the classic “Freccione,” and the two-tone Black Bay GMT, which takes after the legendary GMT-Master “Root Beer.”

While it has never been a secret that Tudor draws inspiration from Rolex, the brand often references watches from its own historical catalog. But with these two watches, there was never a Tudor equivalent in the past. As a result, many were questioning what was going on. It led Lex to write the article that sparked a lively discussion among readers. Even in the Fratello team, the opinions were divided. It led Nacho to write a piece on why the Black Bay Pro was the perfect watch for young watch collectors.

Growing to like the Black Bay Pro

Initially, I was in camp Lex when the Black Bay Pro was unveiled. But soon after, I had a chance to spend some time with the Black Bay Pro, and it started growing on me. I quickly recognized that the watch was its own thing. Sure, it was very much taking after the legendary Explorer II ref. 1655. But since the Freccione was not on the list of watches I would ever consider buying, the Black Bay does a good job of capturing the same vibe. But the Tudor designers did a great job Tudorifying the Black Bay Pro.

First, they did a great job of cleaning up the impractical design of the first Explorer II. Additionally, they also managed to make it a true Tudor. The characteristic handset with its extra 24-hour GMT hand plays a huge role in that. The snowflake hands can be divisive; some dislike them as a standout element on certain models, but they are perfect for the Black Bay Pro.

The colorful 24-hour hand adds exactly the right amount of zing to the overall color palette. And I love that it’s not bright orange but a softer tone. On top of that, it corresponds nicely with the “200m:660ft” text on the dial. The beige tone is also perfectly consistent on the hands, the date disc, and the luminous hour markers. Together with the 24-hour hand, it’s a very nice combination that contrasts perfectly with the black dial. Add the faux-rivet bracelet that so many people hate, which I like because it brings extra character to the watch. Lastly, the MT5652 caliber offers the practicality of a flyer-style GMT.

How it became ‘my’ Tudor Black Bay Pro

What you end up with is a watch that I quickly grew to like. But there was one thing that I questioned. A quick initial look confirmed that the Black Bay Pro was a pretty chunky watch. Having said that, I have never shied away from wearing a slightly thicker watch. The simple realization that the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 is on the top of my wishlist, will tell you all you need to know. But with the Tudor Black Bay Pro, it is not necessarily the 14.6mm thickness itself that creates a challenge. It’s the slab-sided case sides that emphasize its height and make it look like the white cliffs of Dover.

I had a chance to see whether that would change my mind about the Black Bay Pro when I reviewed it on a series of Forstner bracelets. It was a great opportunity to wear the watch for an extended period and get to know it well. As it turned out, I was able to wear the watch for over a year. While I switched up the bracelets at first, I quickly found that the Forstner Model O was my favorite option. It makes sense as this Oyster-style bracelet is a logical aftermarket replacement for Tudor’s OEM bracelet. It removes the much-debated fake rivets, making it look like a proper Rolex Oyster bracelet from the 1970s. Some of the early Explorer II ref. 1655 versions were delivered on a riveted bracelet, but most came on the improved Oyster bracelet without rivets.

That unique feeling I was looking for…

After wearing the Black Bay Pro for a couple of weeks, it quickly became my go-to daily wearer. The chunky case never bothered me. Even better, I loved the thick profile because it gave me the feeling of wearing a sturdy watch that could withstand anything you threw at it. And that feeling of putting a watch on your wrist that you adore for its looks, yet also gives you the reassurance that you don’t have to be careful when wearing it, is rather unique. It’s a sweet spot defined by looks, build quality, and a price point that fits your budget. For me, the Black Bay Pro is the perfect watch to wear every day without worry. But every time I look at it, I am reminded how much I love the design. I only had that feeling before with my much-desired Sea-Dweller.

It made me grab the Black Bay Pro as my favorite daily watch for almost 18 months. As you would expect, that gives you the feeling that it’s your watch. I always knew it had to go back at some point, but the more you wear a watch, the less you think about it. But when that moment came, I was completely fine with it. I am in the privileged position of getting to wear a great number of different watches, so sending the Tudor Black Bay Pro back never came with any extra emotion. Only after some time passed did I notice that I missed it. And when fellow Fratello writer, Daan, asked me about it, I had to admit I actually had a longing for it; I only ever felt it with the Sea-Dweller. After wearing it for so long, no watch ever came close to giving me that special feeling the Black Bay Pro did.

What does “the best watch” actually mean?

As Thomas already explained in his article about his Rolex Explorer ref. 16570, the best watch is not an objective term in this series. He phrased it nicely by stating, “We’re not talking about the objectively best watch, as that wouldn’t really mean anything. We’re talking about the watch we would crown as the subjective best watch-owning experience we’ve had.” While I never really owned the Black Bay Pro, it was an owner experience. That’s why, when we were discussing this series of articles, I knew I had to write about the Tudor Black Bay Pro. I have written about the watch on multiple occasions. The last time was when the white opaline dial version came out last year, and I reflected on the Black Bay Pro’s future. In the article, I mentioned that I wished Tudor would create a slimmer Black Bay Pro, and I still do.

But then again, the current dimensions never bothered me for a second. And while writing this article, I had this feeling that it was just a reason not to buy the current Black Bay Pro. That’s why I know what to do and am freeing up the space in my collection to chase the Tudor Black Bay Pro. It’s time to make that happen and finally own a watch I have loved for so long. At the end of 2023, I wrote in my resolutions for 2024 that Thomas said nicely in one of my conversations with him, “Hearing how you talk about that watch, it will surely come to you.” I think the time is finally right to pull the trigger on it in 2026… two years after I first said I would.