The Definitive Modern Speedmaster — Six Years With The Calibre 321
Recently, one of our readers asked me for an update on my ownership of the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321. He also wanted to know how often I wear it compared with the stainless-steel Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch introduced the following year (2021). They’re fair questions, and I’ll do my best to answer them today. Over the six years of ownership, I can say that I’ve developed a clearer opinion on this Speedmaster Calibre 321 reference 311.30.40.30.01.001.
Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321
When the Speedmaster Caliber 321 was introduced on the first Tuesday of 2020, it was the second Speedmaster to feature the new 321 movement. In 2019, Omega first introduced it in a platinum Speedmaster Professional model with an onyx dial and meteorite subdials. The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 was the first model to feature this movement in steel since the late 1960s, and it ticks a lot of boxes for Speedmaster fans. I don’t want to recap everything already written here (and elsewhere) about this watch, but just give an update on how it has treated me over the past six years. You can find the introductory article about this watch here, an early review here, and a follow-up on one year of ownership here.
Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary
It was just after the introduction of the Speedmaster Apollo IX versions, with the new caliber 3861 for the first time. And later in 2020, Omega released its other blockbuster, the Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary model. Both the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award were not limited-edition models but were produced in low numbers. As we speak, both models are still in production today. Omega produces the Silver Snoopy Award on its regular production lines in Switzerland, while its specialists assemble the Calibre 321 in a dedicated atelier. Assembled (twice) by hand, and by one watchmaker for each watch. In this article, I’ve explained what makes it so special compared to the other Speedmaster Professional models.
One of my most-worn Speedmaster watches
Six years in, I’ve noticed that the only Speedmaster I wear more often than the Calibre 321 is my 2019 Apollo XI 18K Moonshine gold watch. A watch I purchased with the idea of wearing only on special occasions, but then emotion took over, and it rapidly became my all-time favorite watch. And life’s too short not to wear such a thing. The other Speedmaster that is regularly on my wrist is the normal Moonwatch with Hesalite crystal and caliber 3861. But, to answer the question of one of our readers (Saltyfish717), the Speedmaster Calibre 321 gets more time on the wrist than my modern Speedmaster Professional Caliber 3861.
Speedmaster Professional 145.012
Which is kind of weird, I have to admit, because I do prefer the 42mm asymmetrical case of the Speedmaster Professional over the 39.6mm straight-lug Speedmaster Calibre 321 case. I also really like the crown guards on the Speedmaster Professional case, and I find the lyre lugs more attractive than the straight ones. In our recent podcast video, I mentioned that my absolute favorite model is the typical lyre lug Speedmaster. And if I had to draw a dream Speedmaster, it would, in fact, be the regular Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, with a Hesalite crystal, and the caliber 321 inside.
I would change the printing on the current 42mm Moonwatch slightly, more in line with the Speedmaster Calibre 321. The dial on the 321 shows so much more detail than the current Moonwatch, and this is due to the type of finishing. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 has a galvanized dial, while the regular modern Moonwatch has a varnished dial. So I would definitely go with the same galvanic treatment the modern 321 received.
Flat link bracelet
When someone speaks to me about the Calibre 321 Speedy, the bracelet is often part of that conversation. I enjoy the flat-link bracelet inspired by the classic 1039 and 7077 references. The downside is that this bracelet doesn’t have a micro-adjustment system in the clasp. Although I don’t need it given the climate where I live, I can imagine it’s a must-have feature for those who live in places with more extreme temperature changes. Omega has finished this bracelet beautifully, and although some might think it’s the same as the one on the Speedmaster FOiS, let me tell you, it’s not. The bracelet on the 321 has flatter surfaces and a higher-quality finish. The “Nixon” bracelet is definitely a great design and very comfortable, but if I had to pick one, it would be the flat link despite that lack of micro-adjustment.
Caliber 321
Issues with Caliber 321
The 321 movement is, of course, the main attraction of this watch, and in 2019, Omega was finally able to use it again in its watches. It’s a beautiful-looking movement, and it was a long-held wish of mine to see it return to a modern Omega Speedmaster. Back in the 2000s, I asked Omega during a meeting whether there would be a chance we’d see this movement back in their portfolio. The answer was that it would probably never happen, as the right to use this movement was held by Breguet. But we all now know how that panned out.
I’m happy that Omega and Breguet managed to sort this out, as it’s such an incredible movement that belongs in one of the most iconic chronograph watches. It doesn’t have Master Chronometer certification, or even a standard COSC certification, for that matter. And even though accuracy isn’t the highest requirement when I purchase a watch, I did run into an issue with magnetism. Twice. I noticed the watch’s accuracy was off by 25 seconds a day. A bit too much, even when it’s a non-chronometer certified watch. I handed it in, and it was quickly determined that it was exposed to magnetism. demagnetizing a watch is an easy task for any service center. Both times it was fixed under warranty.
The best modern Speedmaster
The Speedmaster Calibre 321 is, to me, the best modern Omega Speedmaster in steel. Despite its practical shortcomings, such as a lack of proper water resistance and Master Chronometer certification. It’s a watch that looks and wears very differently from the modern Speedmaster Professional. With more prominent details on the dial and hands, an incredibly nice-looking, well-designed column-wheel chronograph, and superb finishing on the case and bracelet.
It feels and wears more “high-end”, and I think that’s exactly what Omega envisioned this watch to be. This is also reflected in the watch’s price tag, of course. At €17,100 (including VAT), this watch is twice as expensive as the 42mm Speedmaster Professional. If you don’t see or feel the difference between these two models, do yourself the favor and go with the Professional. However, if you can appreciate all the little details on the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and better finishing in general, this might be something to consider. Of course, another option could be to source a vintage Omega Speedmaster 105.003 in pristine condition. This new model pays tribute to both the 105.003 and Omega’s past and modern watchmaking.
Would I buy it again today?
When I bought the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in 2020, the retail price was CHF 13,000 / €13,300 (including VAT). Six years later, the price sits at €17,100 (including VAT), a significant increase. Would I buy it again today? If my budget would allow to spend that amount of money on a watch, I definitely would. Aside from the Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday models that we created together with Omega, I consider the Calibre 321 and the gold Moonshine Apollo 11 watches the pinnacles of my Speedmaster collection. My colleague Dave recently added a pre-owned Speedmaster Calibre 321 to his collection, which you can read about here. That’s another way to go about it, and one well worth considering for those with a more restricted budget. Personally, I’m glad I can look back fondly at six years of enjoyment with my 321.
On to the next six years of happy ownership!
