Seiko introduced the Sharp Edged Series to its Presage collection in 2020. As the name suggests, the series signifies the strong lines and facets across the sculptural forms of the cases. Combining new cases with a Japanese aesthetic sense, the SPB305 and SPB311 are two modern Seiko watches that embody the brand’s characteristic design language.

Seiko Sharp Edged Series

Signature details

These two models are both new releases from Seiko this year. Their signature elements are the angular case designs and the Asanoha (hemp leaf) dial pattern. For the case, stainless steel is toughened by a super-hard coating. As for the dial, Asanoha is a motif that has been used in Japanese fabrics for over a thousand years ever since the Heian period. The pattern has remained popular due to its long-held symbolic meaning of health and vitality.

Two wrist tales

RJ mentioned how much the series had a Grand Seiko feel when he covered the release of these models here. And that makes total sense when you are able to touch the refined watchmaking craftsmanship and feel the distinctively modern Japanese style. So, we reached out to Seiko and got these two releases sent to the office for us to enthusiastically try out. We discovered that apart from the 40.2mm case diameter and build quality, the SPB305 and SPB311 offer completely different wrist experiences. Let’s take a look at them one by one.

Seiko Sharp Edged Series SPB305

The Power Reserve SPB305

Personally, I am really drawn to the SPB305’s “Geppaku” dial color, the pale-blue hue reminiscent of the moonlight. It may not be as universal as white or as popular as blue, but it’s different, and that’s the allure. The dial aesthetic is dictated by the power-reserve indicator along with the day and date displays. The rest of the dial is super clean with silver detailing punctuated by a slender blue seconds hand. The hands and indexes are pressed to their shapes and faceted with Seiko’s proprietary diamond-cut technique. They are filled with Lumibrite to aid readability in dim conditions.

Ticking inside the SPB305 is Seiko’s caliber 6R21. This automatic movement also allows for manual winding. It runs at 28,800vph (4Hz) and provides a 45-hour power reserve. With sapphire crystals covering both sides of the watch, the movement is on full display through the case back. The faceted case standing 12.2mm tall also features polished bevels to highlight the series-namesake sharp edges. The case offers water resistance to 100 meters. It comes with a stainless steel bracelet secured by a deployant clasp with a push-button release. The retail price of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB305 “Geppaku” is €1,100.

Seiko Sharp Edged Series SPB311

The Open Heart SPB311

The open-heart model we have is the SPB311 “Aisumi” in a deep indigo blue. The Asanoha motif is more pronounced on a darker dial as the geometric texture pumps up the color play. Rose-gold-tone details like the logo, hands, and indexes make for a perfectly harmonious contrast. As on the Power Reserve model, the hands and indexes also glow with Lumibrite. The star of the show, however, is the aperture at 9 o’clock, exhibiting the oscillating balance wheel as well as the moving escapement. Aesthetically, it is a simple yet mesmerizing dial that just keeps drawing your eyes back.

Defining features

The SPB311 is a time-only watch with hacking seconds. It shares the same case design and diameter as the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Power Reserve. The Open Heart model is a touch slimmer, though, measuring 11.8mm tall. And on a leather strap instead of a bracelet, it also feels lighter on the wrist, weighing only 88 grams. The superbly engineered case with its crisp edges and polished facets offers outstanding light reflection no matter the angle from which you view it. It also offers water resistance to 100 meters.

Seiko Sharp Edged Series SPB311

Visible both through the open-heart aperture and the case back is Seiko’s 6R38 movement. This movement has a longer power reserve of 70 hours with a slower beat rate of 21,600vph (3Hz). The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB311 “Aisumi” comes on a leather strap and retails for €1,000.

For more information, visit Seiko’s official website, and let us know which model you prefer in the comments!

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