The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo isn’t a watch that really needs a lot of color to stand out. Its extremely flat and geometric design already makes it one of the most original watches to wear. However, for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Bvlgari is launching two colorful versions of its 10-year-old icon. The first is a version in 18K yellow gold with a blue sunburst dial. The second is a variant in 904L steel with a copper dial inspired by the Italian region of Tuscany.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo variants

Bvlgari has already released a multitude of Octo Finissimo variants since the watch’s debut in 2014. I think my favorite is the titanium one with the sketches on the dial. However, the CarbonGold ones that Thomas wrote about also looked quite nice. Last year, Bvlgari also released a couple of 50-piece limited editions for the US market. One was in yellow gold with a brown dial, and the other was in stainless steel with a copper dial. Now Bvlgari is making the latter available worldwide, while the yellow gold model gets a new blue dial color instead of the original brown one. Crucially, both will also be regular-production pieces. Let’s take a look.

The shared capabilities

I’ll quickly cover the bases here as both these watches have quite a few things in common. They share the same octagonal case originally designed by Gérald Genta and refined by Bvlgari Product Creation Executive Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. This one measures 40mm in diameter and has 58 facets, making it fascinating to look at. Both watches are just 6.4mm slim. That’s because they’re powered by the same BVL 138 automatic caliber, which is only 2.23mm thick.

The movement runs at a 21,600vph frequency and offers a respectable power reserve of 60 hours. Additionally, the micro-rotor is made of platinum to ensure that it has sufficient mass to wind the watch. Both case backs feature a sapphire crystal to allow owners to enjoy the hand-finished chamfers, perlage, and Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement. What’s also nice to know is that both versions are water resistant to 100 meters. Now, I’m not sure if you’d want to take these watches swimming, especially the gold version. Still, the water resistance is a reassuring spec.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo ref. 103812

The 18K yellow gold Octo Finissimo ref. 103812

As mentioned, this new yellow gold version is a variation of a 50-piece LE that Bvlgari released last year for the US market. That one had a brown sunburst dial. Instead, this new, non-limited version has a lovely blue sunburst dial. The skeletonized hands and indices on it are made of the same 18K yellow gold used for the case and wide integrated bracelet. Contrasting the mostly brushed finish of both, the crown has a high-polished finish and also features a ceramic insert.

The combination of the yellow gold case and blue dial reminds me of a Patek Philippe Ellipse that I once saw at a get-together. It looks very chic. However, one thing that I thoroughly enjoy about picking up a titanium Octo Finissimo is the surprise of how light it is. That effect is taken away here by the added weight of the 18K gold. On the other hand, I’m sure it’ll still wrap around your wrist nicely, just like any other Octo Finissimo would do.

The 904L stainless steel Octo Finissimo ref. 103856

The stainless steel Octo Finissimo with the copper sunburst dial I’m presenting to you today isn’t actually a new watch. It was already available in the US as a limited edition of 50 pieces. But now it’ll also be available to the rest of the world. Its dial color was inspired by the Mannerism art style that emerged around 1500 in Tuscany, Italy. You could also say it looks a little like a dark salmon color. It features rhodium-plated skeletonized hands and indices.

The Tuscan copper color is an understated one that adds class and isn’t too shiny. I like how it doesn’t take your attention away from the magnificent case and bracelet.

What do you think?

The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo in 18K yellow gold with a blue dial can be yours for €48,700. The version in 904l stainless steel with the copper dial is a little more affordable at €14,800. For more information on either of these watches, please visit Bvlgari’s official website.

I think my favorite is still the titanium Octo Finissimo. But maybe you prefer to get one in gold, stainless steel, or maybe even CarbonGold. Let me know in the comments which one you would choose.

Watch specifications

Octo Finissimo Automatic
103812 (yellow gold) / 103856 (stainless steel)
Lacquered blue sunburst / Tuscan copper sunburst
Case Material
18K yellow gold / 904L stainless steel
Case Dimensions
40mm (diameter) × 46.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 6.9mm (thickness)
Case Back
Sapphire display
BVL 138 — ultra-thin automatic caliber with micro-rotor, 21,600vph frequency, 60-hour power reserve, 31 jewels
Water Resistance
10 ATM (100m)
18K yellow gold / 904L stainless steel integrated bracelet
Time (hours, minutes, sub-seconds)
€48,700 (yellow gold) / €14,800 (stainless steel)