Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection

I have a massive soft spot for small, independent brands. That doesn’t just apply to watches. I love it when people dare to stick their necks out and chase (probably naive) dreams in real life outside of the realm of big luxury groups. The results also tend to speak to me. These brands typically follow a singular creative vision, leading to much more daring and radical choices. There is none of that design-by-committee or “because it sells” stuff going on. So, I decided to pick up the gauntlet and curate my dream collection of independent microbrand watches. This is indies only!

The rules? They have to be watches I would actually consider buying. In my case, that means they have to sit in the sub-€10k segment. Of course, I cannot pick watches I’ve created (yes, disclaimer: my soft spot is probably softened further by being an indie too). Next, this is a subjective list, meaning the watches need to speak to me. The brief isn’t to compile a list of the objectively best indie creations. Finally, and most obviously, the brands cannot be part of some massive luxury group.

How I would curate a collection of indies only

Okay, so how do I actually go about building an indies-only watch collection? I reckon I should take the approach I take with watches in general. I don’t collect by a specific theme or by specific rules. It is really as simple as this: does it make me feel good?

That said, I do enjoy having a small, focused collection that covers my practical needs. It should include a rugged, affordable option for yardwork and other hard-wearing tasks. There should certainly be a great GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) option, as that is my favorite genre and the one I wear the most. Next, I enjoy wearing dive watches as the more casual GADA alternative, so there has to be a diver in there. Lastly, I want something formal for special occasions.

That gives me four slots to fill. Since we’re envisioning these as the only watches I will own, I set the bar rather high for quality. At the risk of sounding snobby, the microbrand charm wanes quickly for me if the build quality isn’t up there with the big boys. So, aside from my rugged, affordable pick, I envision browsing the higher indie segments here. Let’s get into it and see what’s what!

The rugged, affordable slot

The first pick for my imaginary indies-only collection was an easy one. When it comes to affordable and rugged watches, it is easy to land on RZE. My pick would be an RZE Resolute. The collection evolves, so it depends on what is available when I place my purchase. Still, you can never go wrong with a black-dial model. The Spruce Green is cool too, though.

At €820, it isn’t quite as cheap as some other RZE watches, but it’s still a good value. You get a titanium case with UltraHex coating, giving it a surface hardness of 1,200 Vickers. With a 40mm diameter and 10.5mm profile, it has great proportions for a sports watch. I like that it comes on a titanium bracelet, partly because I like bracelets, but also because it is sturdy and easy to clean. Inside ticks the ubiquitous Miyota 90S5 automatic caliber, which will serve me well in a tool watch.

The RZE Resolute combines toughness with a cool, restrained sporty aesthetic. That’s a winning combination for me.

The perfect GADA watch for my indies-only collection

The second slot in my imaginary indies-only collection took a lot more thinking. GADA really is my jam, so I am very critical here. What would be an indie watch I would enjoy wearing day in, day out? I love the gold-dial Laventure Marine II, but that’s sold out. I like Serica’s new 7505 Field Chronometer, but it is too toolish, and I don’t like the Bonklip bracelet. The Fears Brunswick speaks to me but only on a leather strap, and I want a bracelet on my GADA watch.

In the end, I landed on a watch from a few years back, the Lorca Model No. 1 GMT with a silver dial. Lorca founder Jesse Marchant displayed great taste with his debut release. This dressy GMT has a 36mm steel case with a 37mm bezel. Speaking of the bezel, it features rather atypical typography that I had to get used to, but I deeply appreciate it now that my eyes have adjusted.

This watch draws on many vintage watches without becoming directly derivative of any one in particular. It oozes vintage charm, though. Having handled these, I can attest that the quality and refinement are beyond what you would expect from a microbrand, making this one I would happily wear every single day. The supple bracelet with its micro-adjustable clasp also helps. The Lorca Model No. 1 GMT costs €2,015.95, which I find very sharp considering the fine execution.

The diver in my indies-only collection

On to the next pick, my favorite indie dive watch. This is another category that took some thinking. While dive watches are probably the most common style among microbrand offerings, most sit in the entry-level segment. If I am going to wear just one more dive watch for eternity, I want a higher-end option. Interestingly, there isn’t that much out there when it comes to high-end indie dive watches, which may be why I decided to make one myself. Still, the rules dictate that mine is off-limits! This leads to, for instance, one of the first microbrands to shift focus from aggressive pricing to quality, Monta. Unfortunately, the Oceanking reminds me a bit too much of a modern Sub. Ming is another brand that does a high-end diver, but its style is a bit too futuristic for my taste.

The unexpected conclusion is that what I would want does not exist — or, at least, not to my taste. Serica comes closest with its 5303. I always felt that the watch was let down by its bracelet. Even if it looks fantastic, it doesn’t feel as solid as I’d like on a dive watch. So I reckon I would get this watch and then wear it on a rubber strap.

My pick of the bunch would be the white-dial variant. I think Serica did a great job coming up with an original layout without sacrificing functionality and legibility. It is a divisive style, for sure, but that only makes it better to me. It costs €1,590.

Something formal for special occasions

For the dress watch in my imaginary indies-only collection, I would opt for one from Kurono Tokyo. I absolutely love the watches in the brand’s Classic Series. Unfortunately, they only come and go occasionally, and, at the time of writing, none are available. Luckily, another favorite dress watch of mine is available for direct order — the Fears Arnos in Pewter Blue.

The Fears Arnos takes the rectangular-case approach and marries it with a circular dial. The resulting unused space gets a lovely silver hobnail-pattern treatment. With a 22mm width and 40mm lug-to-lug, the watch has plenty of modern wrist presence while also retaining a classical vibe. Inside ticks an automatic Sellita SW1000 caliber, which is a good choice for a watch of this style. It should make it plenty reliable and easy to service anywhere.

I particularly like how Fears took a century-old style and updated it. The resulting watch feels rooted in history but also modern and fresh. It costs €5,040.

My imaginary indies-only collection

Admittedly, curating this imaginary indies-only collection was harder than I expected. This has everything to do with my specific demands regarding build quality and finishing. As much as I admire what many microbrands can do in the €500–1,500 range, they often leave me wanting in the long run. After a while, I start to notice which corners have been cut and where the money has been saved. That’s not an indictment in the slightest. I am delighted that these offerings exist and somewhat democratize higher-end features and specs. Still, if I am looking for watches to wear for the long term, I want something a little more refined. I particularly struggled with dive watches in this respect.

Another thing I noticed is that collecting indie watches can be a bit more involved. You may have to exert some patience, have your funds, and be ready to pounce when a release drops. Many watches I would have picked, such as the Laventure Marine Type 3, Toledano & Chan B/1.2, Kurono Tokyo Classic Series, and De Rijke Capri, aren’t currently available. While that limits my options here, it is part of the fun of collecting indies. It makes the watches a little bit less common, and sometimes, not getting what you want is healthy, too.

All in all, I reckon I have a great selection of four here. Will I sell my current collection and choose indies only from now on? Not yet…but if the small independents in our beloved watch world keep dropping watches like this, I might one day…

What would comprise your indies-only collection? Let us know in the comments section below!