Atelier Holgur is a small Singapore-based brand with Nordic roots and a specific take on tough dive watches. Since the release of its debut model, the Frømand (meaning “frogman” in Danish), Atelier Holgur has tweaked its distinct design language. By introducing the Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide, the evolution is apparent.

We love our tool watches at Fratello; there’s no denying that fact. And there is something liberating about what small brands free of design committees and shareholders can offer. Atelier Holgur founders Matthew de Bakker and Asbjørn Simonen-Andersen have a clear vision, and it shows from the Frømand’s DLC-treated bezel to the angular titanium architecture.

Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide

Grade 5 titanium on point

This year has seen a noticeable resurgence in titanium watches, and Atelier Holgur is on point with its toughest Grade 5 case. It will undoubtedly feel remarkably light on the wrist, while the darker tint compared to steel is a great partner to the rich dial of the Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide. This design is not new, even if it is for many of you. Rather, it is an evolution. Nacho reviewed the debut version in December 2022, and Jorg wrote about last year’s scintillating Fire Coral and Ocean Emerald editions. But this time, we are offered a deep monochrome vibe with an enigmatic depth. And it comes in a case with fixed strap bars, just like the Tudor Pelagos FXD.

Yes, at CHF 11,500, this is a premium independent offering, but you can understand the work behind the case, dial, and strap details. And with this modern, angular style, few bona fide competitors are out there. The shrouded-lug case is a great example of thinking outside the vintage-inspired box. It has a clean-cut, sharp air of modernism and, with this being a diver, dare I say “urban cool”? All the right design clues are there, from broad crown guards to a classic dive bezel with a detailed 20-minute highlight. But it feels honed and emanating from a contemporary mindset.

Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide on wrist

Have divers become the perennial favorites among sports watches?

That’s a slightly rhetorical question, don’t you think? I don’t dive, but I love dive watches to the point of sometimes wearing them when all suited up. To some people, that comes off as all wrong, and I get it, but it’s about that feeling I get when wearing a tool watch, even behind my desk. It’s a competent, tough, I-can-do-anything feeling that persists. And it sometimes even inspires people to get out of the sofa and roam the great outdoors (true story). With the Frømand’s distinct and light case design, the Atelier Holgur team has played its 40mm size card wisely.

Atelier Holgur Edition Fumèe Silver Tide

The lightness continues through the tough yet comfortable hook-and-loop straps made from recycled ocean plastic. Buyers will get two straps with this watch — a single-loop diving strap and a slimmer two-piece version for everyday wear. With matching Grade 5 titanium hardware, they are as tough as this evolved version of the Frømand and, I dare say, refreshingly different in their design and focused ethos.

Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide

Nordic-inspired dial art

Tugging at my Nordic heartstrings, there is a poetic inspiration behind the dial of this newest Frømand Edition Fumée, and it does feel rather special. The Silver Tide takes its gradient looks from night dives when the moonlight sometimes reflects off the water’s surface. It’s evocative, yes, and I get it. The perceived depth is eye-catching, and the details are perfectly framed by the black DLC-treated bezel. From the block-tastic indices to the dagger-like hands, the solid doses of Super-LumiNova will also allow great legibility after dark. The recessed sub-seconds register with its raised, concentric-grained center is one of my favorite details. It feels elegant on a brawny diver, but the Fumée Edition Silver Tide is a suave tool.

The Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide is one refined diver

The angular cushion case’s well-executed matte and polished details make the Frømand Fumée Edition Silver Tide a handsome beast. I’d see it as a cooler alternative to a Hublot Classic Fusion or JLC’s Polaris models rather than a pure diver’s tool. It is a refined and medium-sized timepiece, making it superb for daily wear. It also has some pretty distinctive features that dress it up nicely, in contrast to its 300m depth rating. These juxtaposed elements, together with the refined movement choice, are pure charm.

This is especially true when considering the polished intricacies of the specially commissioned Schwarz-Etienne ASE 200. This skeletonized movement displays micro-blasted surfaces, hand-beveled edges, and a signed micro-rotor. It’s a hacking caliber with 198 parts, 33 jewels, and a massive 86-hour power reserve too. All this adds up to a different, exclusive-feeling watch that’s well worth its CHF 11,500 price tag. Plus, with only eight units available, this Frømand is exclusive, all right.

So, my tool-obsessed Fratelli, how do you feel about the Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide? Is it a natural evolution of a pure dive watch, or does it defy categorization? Let me know in the comments.

Watch specifications

Frømand Edition Fumée
Silver Tide
Silver-gray-to-black vignette with applied Super-LumiNova indices and circular-grained small seconds register
Case Material
Grade 5 titanium with black DLC-treated bezel
Case Dimensions
40mm (diameter) × 48mm (lug-to-lug) × 13.5mm (thickness)
Sapphire with antireflective coating
Case Back
Grade 5 titanium and AR-treated sapphire crystal, screw-in
Schwarz-Etienne ASE 200 for Atelier Holgur: automatic with micro-rotor, 21,600vph frequency, 86-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, skeletonized, micro-blasted with hand-polished beveled edges
Water Resistance
300m (30 ATM)
Daily wear strap made of with hook-and-loop fastener and pin system and single-loop diving strap with hook-and-loop fastener, both straps made of #tide material (recycled ocean plastic) with Grade 5 titanium buckles
Time only (hours, minutes, small seconds)
CHF 11,500 (excluding local taxes and import fees)