Today, we’ll take a brief look at a new collaboration watch from Ming and J.N. Shapiro. You may recall that both brands are founding members of the Alternative Horological Alliance, a group founded in 2024 that aims to support its members through innovation and partnership. Thus far, the AHA has given us bracelets and cases, but this is the first time an actual watch has resulted. The 37.06 Lightning looks like the product of successful teamwork.

When we think of J.N. Shapiro watches, “American,” “handmade,” and “formal” are some of the words that come to mind. Indeed, Josh has turned his Los Angeles manufacture into a respected firm with lengthy waitlists. Ming, on the other hand, makes modern watches with a distinctly recognizable design ethos. While both brands are independent and the owners are great friends, the watches look entirely different. This begs the question of what a potential tie-up would look like. The new 37.06 Lightning is the answer, and yes, it’s very Ming, but the standout detail is rather J.N. Shapiro.

Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning in hand

The Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning

The new Lightning uses a well-known form as its foundation. The 37-series of watches has been with us since 2022 and continues to serve as the basis for Ming’s more approachable models. Today’s 37.06 uses polished and brushed 316L stainless steel for its 38mm by 44.5mm case. A domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating contributes to an overall 10.9mm thickness. The depth rating remains at 100 meters, and the watch is delivered on a dark blue Barenia calfskin strap from John Rousseau. Ming’s well-known and beloved tuck buckle is part of the package in polished stainless steel.

Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning dial close-up

A handmade guilloché dial with a heat-treated effect

The 37.06 Lightning is equipped with engraved and HyCeram luminous-filled hour indexes on the underside of the top crystal. Blued hands contain Super-LumiNova X1. However, it’s the underlying dial that steals the spotlight.

Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning guilloché dial

Here, J.N. Shapiro uses a traditional rose-engine lathe in Los Angeles to create a guilloché finish on a Grade 2 titanium dial. Inscribing the “lightning” pattern is an arduous process fraught with potential errors, leading to a high rejection rate. The process may be traditional, but the resulting pattern is modern enough to fit within Ming’s more modern creations.

Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning heat treatment of dial

After the guilloché process, Shapiro ships the dials directly to Ming’s founder, Ming Thein, in Kuala Lumpur. Here, he uses a butane torch to carefully apply heat to the dial. This creates natural coloration that ranges from purple to blue to gold. As with the guilloché process, heat treating with a torch can damage the dials. As a result, roughly a third of the initial subjects are deemed good enough to land in a watch case.

Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning wrist shot

A lovely result

The end product is a watch that’s unmistakably Ming but has a story to tell about its origin. Frankly, I love the variation that the heat treatment brings to the color. The process also highlights the depth of the guilloché pattern. Yes, it’s a thoughtful and well-considered way for these two companies to come together.

Ming 37.06 Lightning movement

Inside, the story is more familiar, as the 37.06 Lightning uses the Ming SW210.M1 manual-winding caliber from Sellita. This movement has a 42-hour power reserve and features anthracite-coated and skeletonized bridges. Of special note is the engraving on the case back signifying the collaboration between both companies.

Ming 37.06 Lightning lume shot

Final thoughts

The Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning is not a limited edition per se, but is limited by the time-intensive dial production. When it goes on sale on June 5th at 13:00 GMT, an initial batch will be ready for shipping. The pricing is set at CHF 6,250, reflecting the cost of dial production above and beyond other 37-series models. Overall, it’s a lovely watch that represents the skills of both companies involved. For more information, visit the official Ming website.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning
Dial
Grade 2 titanium with handmade engine-turned guilloché by J.N. Shapiro in Los Angeles; heat-colored by Ming Thein in Kuala Lumpur
Case Material
316L stainless steel with brushed and polished finishes
Case Dimensions
38mm (diameter) × 44.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 10.9mm (thickness)
Crystal
Domed sapphire with antireflective coating on both sides
Case Back
Screw-in (four screws) with domed sapphire crystal with double-sided antireflective coating display
Movement
Sellita for Ming SW210.M1: manual winding, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, ~42-hour power reserve, 18 jewels, anthracite skeletonized bridges with contrast rhodium circular brushing
Water Resistance
10 atm (100 meters)
Strap
Blue Barenia calfskin (20mm) with Alcantara lining by Jean Rousseau with stainless steel keeperless tuck buckle
Functions
Time only (hours and minutes)
Price
CHF 6,250
Warranty
Two years