Meet The Bvlgari Aluminium GMT Watch — Let’s Travel In Blue
Last year around the same time, during Geneva Watch Days, Bvlgari re-introduced its Aluminium watch. Or should we say that the Bvlgari Diagono from 1998 got something of a facelift? When we first encountered this range in the (very lightweight) metal, we weren’t sure the industry had been crying out for it. But after a short period on the wrist, our tunes almost universally changed. Aluminium is not the first material one thinks of when it comes to luxury watchmaking, but it certainly makes for an interesting experience on the wrist.
Last year’s GWD was the last time Fratello hit the road as a team. Next week (August 30th) sees the 2021 edition of the decentralized fair. Crazily, it will be the first time again that our team has had the chance to travel together since then. The Bvlgari visit always gets us excited because, as you know, we’re big fans of the brand. While we generally focus our attention on the Octo Finissimo range (and anything made of Malachite if your name is Rob Nudds), this new aluminium series offers a slick and professional avenue that has been left largely unexplored by the rest of the mainstream industry (I mean, whoever heard of an aluminium Speedmaster Professional?).
Bvlgari Aluminium GMT
Today, Bvlgari comes with a new addition to this collection: the Bvlgari Aluminium GMT. Besides the time-only model, the chronograph, there’s now also a GMT. I happen to own the Bvlgari Aluminium chronograph from last year, but it was quickly confiscated by the missus. I discussed the watch in this article, earlier this year. Last year’s aluminium watch from Bvlgari is a perfect base to build upon. Here we see that strategy in full force: the GMT is the first complication of potentially many to be added to the range.
As the model’s name suggests, and the watch clearly shows, the Bvlgari Aluminium GMT has a second time-zone function. On the dial, you will find an extra hour hand and a 24-hour scale. Blue is the color for this watch, as you can see. A blue rubber strap, rubber bezel, and dial. On top, the GMT hour hand is also using blue, with a red tip with white Super-LumiNova in the triangle.
Despite all the blue, red, and white, it’s a very clean-looking watch and easily readable. The hour markers are big and lumed, and “12” and “6” are Arabic numerals. The silver polished hands for the hours, minutes, and seconds give a good contrast with the blue dial. The 24-hour scale is blue and red, to make a distinction between day and night. At 3 o’clock, there is a date aperture. Although it would be aesthetically very pleasing to have a blue date disc with white printing, a white date disc with black printing does give a better (and quicker) read-out.
Blue rubber bezel
The Bvlgari Aluminium GMT has a case diameter of 40mm. That’s identical to the other two Aluminium models mentions. I know it’s personal, but 40mm is kind of a sweet spot for me. I can wear bigger or smaller watches, but 40mm will always work for me. This watch has a water resistance of 100 meters, making it a nice all-rounder. The aluminium case has a titanium case back, a titanium crown, and a blue rubber bezel with the famous “Bvlgari Bvlgari” signature. This material pairing keeps the weight down and takes advantage of titanium’s low conductivity and thus immediate comfort against the wrist.
Bvlgari Caliber B192
Inside this GMT is Bvlgari’s caliber B192. It is a Sellita SW330-1 based automatic movement, with 42 hours of power reserve, 25 jewels, a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz), hacking seconds, a quick-set date, and a 24-hour hand for the second time zone.
In general, you have two types of GMT watches. One where you set the GMT/24-hour hand in a separate position of the crown (in case of this Bvlgari Aluminium GMT, the second position is where you set the date and the GMT hand), and you have GMT watches where you set the normal hour hand separately from the minute hand and the GMT hand. In the latter case, you set the independent hour hand to the local time zone, and the GMT hand points towards home time. With the Bvlgari Aluminium GMT, the 24-hour GMT hand can be easily adjusted separately from the 12-hour local time indicated by the watch. However, changing the local time is not possible without simultaneously changing the 24-hour reference time.
Blue rubber strap
Last not but least, and one of my favorite things about the Bvlgari Aluminium collection, is the rubber strap (or should that be bracelet?) with aluminium links and pin buckle. It is a very comfortable strap with a unique look to it. Bvlgari knows how to deal with straps and bracelets (I’ve referred to their beautiful bracelet on the Octo Finissimo more than once here), and this rubber/Alu strap is no exception.
Pricing of the Bvlgari Aluminium GMT
I can’t wait to try this watch in the flesh. In less than one week I will have had it on my wrist. We’ll report back then with new images to boot! I am also curious to learn what other complications we can expect in the future from the Bvlgari Aluminium collection, but let’s first try to get hands-on with this new GMT.
The Bvlgari Aluminium GMT reference 103554 has a retail price of $3,500 (excluding VAT)/€3,500 (including VAT). More information can be found here.