Watch Out, World: The New Timex Atelier Chronographs Are Really Good
Just a couple of weeks ago, we were recording an episode of Fratello On Air when Balazs brought up the new Timex Atelier collection. Frankly, I had no idea what he was talking about, which is odd because I check out the brand’s website every so often. Lo and behold, when I did hit the link, I was surprised by what I saw. More on that shortly, but today, I’m excited to provide a brief overview of the new Atelier Chronographs.
Timex is not a small brand. The famous American name has long been known for making good-looking, robust, and incredibly affordable watches. Timex has supplied the military, helped children learn to tell time, and experienced a renaissance over the past decade. Slowly, with the Giorgio Galli models, the company has begun offering higher-end pieces. But this always felt like a small effort compared to the rest of the catalog. Now, there’s a new Atelier collection that is the more permanent follow-up to the Galli models, and they look really good. Today, we check out the new chronographs.
The Timex Atelier Chronographs
Until now, the Atelier collection consisted of modern diver and GMT models. The watches have a minimalist design that wouldn’t be out of place on, say, a Serica. Plus, they use Swiss automatic movements and bring features such as enamel dials, skeletonized lugs, and a bracelet with toolless link removal. The prices are in the €1,000 range, which might sound new for a Timex. But seriously, have a look, read the specs, and realize that there’s something very cool underway at this behemoth of a brand.
Now, we have two new chronographs, and I think Timex has made a very cool and wise choice by offering the watches in automatic and quartz formats. Both pieces have a 40mm diameter, but the measurements diverge slightly from there. Plus, there are material and surface differences between the two.
The automatics
The automatic Atelier chronographs are essentially one model, but they’re available on a bracelet or a black synthetic rubber strap with push-button deployant clasps. Of note, the bracelet contains “pull-and-twist” lugs, making adjustments a breeze. The 40mm by 49.3mm case is crafted from titanium and features Giorgio Galli’s signature hollowed-out lugs. It has a proud double-domed crystal with an antireflective coating on the top side and a screw-in display case back. The crystal contributes to an overall 15.75mm thickness. A largish crown and twin rectangular pushers handle the operations. Rated at 50 meters, the water resistance is ample. Interestingly, the titanium bezel has a stainless steel tachymeter scale insert. With a 42mm diameter, this assembly overhangs the case a bit.
Timex chose an austere and modern design for the dial. It’s matte black with titanium-hued registers showing running seconds and a 30-minute totalizer. An internal metal ring with engraved indexes complements the polished and beveled central handset. From my vantage point, I do not see any luminous material. Overall, it’s a sharp look and quite different from the normal retro-inspired fare.
The automatic Landeron L72
Timex chose the Landeron L72 as the movement for the Atelier chronograph. This is essentially an ETA 7753 clone, which makes it quite familiar. The movement has 43 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vph. To Timex’s credit, the brand has done a nice job in decorating it with simple Côtes de Genève striping on the oscillating rotor. Also, blued screws shine brightly and add a modicum of visual allure.
Pricing and availability
The automatic Atelier chronograph is priced at €2,200 / US$2,250 / £1,850 with a bracelet and €2,050 / US$2,100 / £1,750 on the rubber strap. Now, on one hand, that may jump out as a lot of money for a Timex. On the other hand, with the reputation of a large brand name behind the watch, along with nice materials and design, it seems like an intriguing proposition. From a big-brand perspective, there are plenty of others charging more for watches with similar or lesser traits. Then, when we come to microbrands, the pricing doesn’t seem far off either. The bottom line is that I’d really like to see these in person and go hands-on for a couple of weeks. For now, check out the official website for these models and learn more.
Not to be missed, the quartz references
Like the titanium Atelier chronographs, the quartz collection offers the choice of a bracelet or a rubber strap. To aid affordability, these watches are made of stainless steel. Plus, the 40mm case is a bit smaller, with a 48.11mm lug-to-lug distance. A slightly less domed sapphire crystal helps give it a 12.7mm profile. The screw-in case back on this model matches the screw-down crown. As a difference-maker versus its titanium sibling, this piece has a 100m water resistance rating.
Functionally, the Ronda 5021D movement offers similar capabilities to the Landeron. This translates to running seconds and a 30-minute totalizer. Here, though, a date window has been added at 6 o’clock. Also, note the similar hollowed case design and overall consistent aesthetics. Look closer, though, and note the black guilloché-pattern dial.
Substantially lower prices for the quartz versions
Unsurprisingly, the quartz Atelier chronographs are significantly less expensive than the titanium automatics. For €800 / US$800 / £650, one can land the bracelet model or save a bit and spend €700 / US$700 / £600 on the strap-equipped piece. Once again, both have push-button deployant clasps, and the bracelet comes with the fantastic, easy-to-remove links. At these prices, the watches are a compelling offering.
Final thoughts
I think Timex is definitely on the right track with its Atelier collection. The watches are thoughtfully styled and contain details that one should expect from a large brand. Regarding the pricing strategy, some may balk, but I think it’s a fairly similar story to Seiko. The well-known Japanese brand offers watches at a wide variety of price points and has seemingly won the ability to do so. Perhaps it will take some time for Timex, but with releases like this, it should close the gap faster than not.
