Fratello On Air: Brands Everyone Should Have In Their Collections

...and a host of other topics

March 12, 2024

comments 48

We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air, and this week, we discuss watches from brands that everyone should own at some point on their collecting journey. Our ideas come across as more of a suggestion than an edict, though. We also touch on several other watch-related topics before the main event. Enjoy the show!

Whether we’re talking watches, cars, or any other item, we’re not sure that anyone likes being told what they should or shouldn’t buy. That’s why our main topic today on watch brands is fairly light. We also spend a decent amount of time talking about last week’s Cartier episode, the new white Speedmaster, and Balazs’s watch-related travel in the USA.

Handgelenks Kontrolle

We kick off our episode with a mention of one of our listeners. He asked about aluminum luggage, which fed a conversation during last week’s podcast. He also happens to be a stuntman who has worked with Tom Selleck, and he shared some news about the actor’s Rolex GMT-Master. We then move on to Cartier and how it must be one of the most polarizing brands in existence. After that, we transition to the white Omega Speedmaster, a watch that Balazs saw while traveling in Miami. As far as our wristwear, both of us are doing our best Magnum, P.I. impersonations. Balazs has his trusty Rolex GMT-Master 1675, and Mike is rocking his later 16750.

Brands everyone should have in their collections (at least once)

We move on to our main topic regarding brands that everyone should have represented in their watch collections. The idea came from one of our listeners, so thank you very much! Balazs names some brands and watches that may come across as a surprise. The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo makes an appearance along with the Zenith El Primero. Then, he mentions Omega, Grand Seiko, Tudor, and Breitling. Mike brings in Parmigiani and Moser. However, despite the venom that exists among so many people, he can’t resist bringing up Rolex. Pound for pound, The Crown makes a fantastic watch, and if purchased at retail price, a Rolex is hard to beat.

We hope you enjoy today’s show, and thanks for listening! Feel free to let us know if you have any suggestions for future episodes!

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Fratello On Air: Brands Everyone Should Have In Their Collections

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DG
GoldenYears says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 10:21

IMO, everyone should consider owning a Casio watch at some point in their watch collecting journey 😊.

Reply
1. dave says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 11:25
  
  Completely agree!
  
  Reply
2. MB
  MarkBu says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 13:05
  
  You got there with that comment before I did. I can’t think of any other brand that comes close to being essential.
  
  Reply
3. SC
  Tam O’ Banter says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 15:03
  
  Since a G-Shock is its own category of watch, Casio is strangely unique in this respect.
  Nobody “needs” a particular brand of dress watch, few would genuinely state that this or that model is not a “real” dive watch.
  No brand is indispensable and these days precious few are genuinely less than decent.
  If a friend showed me his watch case and all it contained was the ten most popular brands traded on C24, I’m not sure I would consider it much of an achievement.
  
  Reply
DP
Diego P says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 11:14

Many aspects to consider: history, design, aesthetics, functionality, technology, value… From my collection I would elevate the GMT II Pepsi, Speedmaster and Serica California dial to the rank of essential. Of the ones I don’t have, I would gladly bring a Reverso, Santos and Explorer. One of those that I would never have for economic reasons but would love to receive would be anything by Christophe Claret.

Reply
FateAmenableToChange says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 12:17

It’s funny that the “brands you should at least try once” completely focus on the higher mid-range.

But really, why is it a necessity to try an Octo or a Moser? To my mind, if there even is such a thing as a must-own brand, I’d say everyone should at least try a Casio once, or a dive watch by Citizen, Seiko or Orient. Realistically those are starting points that can resonate with any burgeoning watch enthusiast at every economic bracket.

If you are a chronograph lover, a vintage Breitling might be seen as a must-try, but why not an Excelsior Park or vintage Bovet? Or a Minerva?

If you are a dive watch lover, the knee jerk reaction might be that a Sub is a must-try, but what about a Tuna, Fugu, Barnacle, Turtle, PloProf, or fifty fathoms?

“Everyone should own a Bvlgari Octo at least once” sound silly against that backdrop.

Quite frankly, I’ll only say that everyone should at least have tried one golden Patek Calatrava in their lifetime. 🙂

Reply
matt_diall says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 12:52

Tudor is a great value proposition, and arguably the toolwatches that Rolex stopped making when they moved into the domain of luxury jewelry that tells the time. However, I’ve tried owning Tudors but my heart just doesn’t go for them. In the end, they feel a bit too derivative of the real thing. Just look at the BB GMT and 1675 above – to me, it just feels like wanting to date Scarlett Johansson or Beyoncé, but instead going out with a girl who just looks like one of them. Not for who the girl is, but just because she reminds you of the famous person. So I’m sorry Tudors, I’ve tried to make this relationship work for the wrong reasons. It’s not you, it’s me. On to Chrono24 you go…

Reply
1. JS
  Angry Gnome says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 15:09
  
  I have had the same exact experience with Tudor. They are fantastic watches, however my BB58 and GMT didn’t last more than 6 months in my collection.
  
  Reply
2. CR
  Badbobby says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 18:34
  
  There’s a reason celebrities rarely date regular people, a a reason why when they do the relationships rarely work. I’d much rather date someone that looks like SJ. All the beauty benefit with none of the soul crushing surety that the first date will also likely be the last date 😂.
  
  Unless you prefer no date, many of us do 😁
  
  Reply
3. endlinktolerance says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 02:21
  
  Tudor is best experienced alongside Rolex and not as a substitute. I completely agree that the models inspired directly by Rolex counterpart models fall short, especially if what you like most about the Rolex equivalent is a thinner case and a finer finish.
  
  But I really enjoy wearing a BB54 as a change of pace from my 6-digit Sub. I also really like wearing a BB GMT when I travel abroad, since I don’t worry the way I used to with a BLRO. I even like how chunky and heavy it is, because over time I now associate the extra weight on my wrist with traveling.
  
  Reply
  1. matt_diall says:
    
    Mar 14, 2024 at 13:59
    
    Your Tudors speak to you, and that’s what matters. I see how a Tudor could complement a modern or 5-digit Rolex, but they feel too close to vintage Rolex for my taste. If I had a 5513 and a Black Bay 58 in my (fictional) 2-watch watchbox, I’d always pick up the 5513 every day. Well maybe not if I went kiteboarding or something, but then I’d skip the BB58 as well and roll with my first-gen Planet Ocean on rubber or a good ol’ G-Shock. (true story 🙂
    
    Reply
4. Rv
  Roy-65 says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 13:06
  
  I bought three Tudors, sold them all.
  
  The Glamour I wore a year and them it did nothing to me anymore.
  The other two (BB58 blue and BB54) looked great in the shop, but when I got home the magic was gone. I sold them without even wearing them to close friends for the same price (when they were still hot).
  
  To be honest I nearly recently bought the BB bronze Boutique Edition. Just in time I could stop myself.
  
  Reply
AM
Veliero says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 13:06

For me, a Swatch. In my childhood, their colourful watches and Swatch Club ignited my interest and kept it new and fun.

Reply
1. SC
  Tam O’ Banter says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 15:11
  
  Everyone should wear a Swatch for a week, then tell me that the luxuriousness of their luxury watch isn’t a factor in the purchase . It’s the ultimate leveller. The white T-shirt of the watch world. It leaves nowhere to hide.
  
  Reply
  1. MB
    MarkBu says:
    
    Mar 12, 2024 at 16:56
    
    Having owned a Swatch, I know this to be true. Sometimes I’m tempted to replicate that feeling, except this time it will be with a F91W or one of Casio’s bottom-range analogues.
    
    Reply
  2. DG
    GoldenYears says:
    
    Mar 12, 2024 at 19:10
    
    Must admit that Swatch watches are the kings for comfort. They are so small and light. However, I have only owned a few brand new Swatch watches (that I can recall) in my life and I gave all of them away within a couple month’s time. They don’t stick with me for some reason.
    
    Reply
    1. AM
      Veliero says:
      
      Mar 12, 2024 at 22:03
      
      I don’t wear a Swatch today (I tried the moonswatch but just could not keep it) but the main reason for not is that tick tick sound which is like a woodpecker on my brain. However as a youth I loved them and still have a large collection and give Swatch credit for fuelling my fire. It is a leveller of a watch worn by all and so many friends (mainly through safety) only wear Swatch, it have become also the new success in a way with the ethos of being too poor for a Patek but not rich enough for a Swatch. Total stealth but also everyday, brilliance really
      
      Reply
      1. DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 13, 2024 at 06:31
        
        Never tried on any of the MoonSwatches. I also have a friend with a vast Swatch collection. Some are so old they don’t work anymore. Yes, it is a brilliant concept – and I like a few of their current designs – just for me to look at, not for me to buy though 😊
        
        Reply
        
        AM
        Veliero says:
        
        Mar 13, 2024 at 09:58
        
        They suited a time and place, childhood, accessible pricing and a huge array of colours and designs to keep interest including the Swatch Club specials. Today most of them just look old and, IMHO, boring. As I mentioned before, I gave the moonswatch first to my daughter who did not want it as not “cool”. Tried to get her another Swatch but not interested in them. Its Apple watch if anything for her and her friends at the moment.
        
        Reply
        
        DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 13, 2024 at 10:51
        
        I do check the Swatch website and the stores from time to time as they have special editions and Switzerland only special editions. I wouldn’t mind buying these as gifts for the children of my nieces and nephews or even my youngest nieces.
        
        My wife has her own collection of Swiss watches but these days her default watch is an Apple Watch.
        
        Reply
    2. SC
      Tam O’ Banter says:
      
      Mar 12, 2024 at 22:12
      
      I suspect it’s the same reason I have almost never worn my Bellamy and why I save my Spring Drive for special occasions.
      We want to project an image of taste and solvency. 😊
      
      Reply
      1. DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 13, 2024 at 06:20
        
        Yes 👍🏻 I think so.
        
        Reply
  3. 1Gav1 says:
    
    Mar 13, 2024 at 00:16
    
    I’ve worn one for longer than a week. It felt cheap and flimsy. ¦D
    
    Reply
    1. DG
      GoldenYears says:
      
      Mar 13, 2024 at 06:21
      
      Agree 👍🏻.
      
      Reply
    2. AM
      Veliero says:
      
      Mar 13, 2024 at 09:59
      
      In the grand scheme of life, they are cheap but that is part of the laissez faire idea, you simply don’t worry about one. I will say, the Swatch pay is also a clever idea and great for holidays.
      
      Reply
      1. DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 13, 2024 at 10:58
        
        Swatch, Casio, Citizen, Seiko, etc. all have decent watches to give as affordable gifts. I think watches make one of the best gifts we can give most anyone.
        
        Reply
MB
MarkBu says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 13:07

Casio and quartz from Citizen and Seiko. I think mechanical watches are interesting and fun, but none really count as essential to me.

Reply
Nenad says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 13:33

When the main topic doesn’t start until the final third of an episode, you know you’re experiencing a classic ‘Fratello on Air’ moment. Well done, guys! 🙌

Reply
1. balazs says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 15:50
  
  this comment of yours could’ve gone in so many directions, yet it went precisely where we wanted it to go. thank you for the kind words!
  
  Reply
2. RW
  Richard says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 17:45
  
  Agree with Nenad. Balacz and Mike are becoming memes on another forum Nenad and I are on. And in a good way. You can’t post a watch or two without seeing a Rimowa or sneaker reference now.
  
  Did someone say “cultural icons?”
  
  Reply
  1. balazs says:
    
    Mar 12, 2024 at 23:50
    
    Please; balazs. Also send us the links. 😉
    
    Reply
velveta says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 15:46

some companies do decent pilot watches, some do divers – depends what style you prefer.

Reply
RW
Richard says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 15:59

Great episode, guys. The Magnum PI/Tom Selleck discussion was great. And I appreciate the discussion of the CP Company jacket. That brand was very famous among football casuals in the 80s and 90s, but they do churn out some really excellent outerwear. And it’s much classier that the standard Patagonia vests you see on lots of folks in NYC.

For me, “essential” brands is obviously subjective, but I would say Omega, Rolex, Tudor, Citizen, Seiko and G Shock. I don’t think JLC, Breitling and IWC qualify as essential but that is open to disagreement.

Reply
Anthony says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 16:42

Seiko, vintage Seiko is another that comes to mind. The 6105-8000 or 6139’s offer so much joy for the dollar. I lusted after a Rolex 1680 for the longest time, wore my buddies, and ended up going with a Tudor 79090 and haven’t thought about Rolex since. So I do think that you can scratch the Rolex itch with a Tudor. It just depends on what reference and the type of person you are.

Reply
TW
Berlin_Tony says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 16:51

I don’t see that there are any “must have” brands

Buy what you like, not what other people tell you to like

Reply
1. RS
  KJMkjm says:
  
  Mar 12, 2024 at 18:46
  
  Yes! Buy what makes you happy.
  
  Reply
1Gav1 says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 21:39

If someone hasn’t owned a Jacob & Co Godfather watch they’re not worth knowing.

Reply
1. Rv
  Roy-65 says:
  
  Mar 14, 2024 at 13:25
  
  I prefer a horse’s head in my bed.
  
  Reply
Naz says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 22:59

Seriously I don’t why ‘watch enthusiasts’ keep on about the luxury brands being ‘essential’, they are not. Certainly have their place in horological history and innovation but having multiple $10k + watches in a collection is not only non essential but for most folk highly irresponsible!
There are established and not so established brands producing beautiful pieces that equal or rival anything from Rolex, Tudor, Omega et al, its all branding cache and people who buy for ‘investment’ proposes are NOT real watch lovers in my book!

Reply
SHTEYNGART says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 23:27

My 1675 is gilt. Please do not marginalize it.

Reply
1. balazs says:
  
  Mar 13, 2024 at 14:32
  
  I stand corrected, G!
  
  Reply
RV
ralfybaby says:

Mar 12, 2024 at 23:43

A sturmanski, a vostok amphibian, a strela and a vympel?
Oh wait, we weren’t discussing Soviet watches?
Seriously who cares. Do we really need to get validated by other watch nerds with a sub or a speedy or a navitimer or a reverso?
Buy what you like. And leave alone what leaves you cold.
I have never owned a Benz or an Opel or a Toyota or a Maserati and I never will. Nor do I feel that I should… they’re perfectly fine cars if you like them but I have no interest in owning one.

Reply
Pete_McConvill says:

Mar 13, 2024 at 05:22

OK, I get the premise and Im also aware you guys are trying really hard not to be prescriptive along the lines of ‘all “true” collectors must have …..”‘ but all that said I struggle with the very premise of the topic.

Brands arent just a catalog of watches, they also represent a bunch of values and ideals and concepts and amongst the brands you’ve mentioned there are some brand values are diametrically opposed. Take Rolex for example – I’ll freely admit their watches are great (at retail) but given the brand values Im never owning one. Im sure there are plenty of Rolex fans that would say the same about other brands on the list.

And thats why I struggle with even thinking there can be such a thing as a brand, any brand, everyone should own.

Reply
JR
Jugistoteles says:

Mar 13, 2024 at 09:01

This whole “essential” stuff is silly and off-putting. And I may be in the minority in the watch community, but the idea of collecting watches (well, anything really) is infantile. Sure, get a few watches for different occasions, switch up if you get bored of a watch etc. But why anyone would collect more stuff than they actually use is beyond me.

Reply
enuona says:

Mar 13, 2024 at 09:39

Everybody should at least own one guilty pleasure watch.

Reply
WS
WES1970 says:

Mar 13, 2024 at 14:11

Mike’s comment about not buying a Tudor to scratch the Rolex itch is 110% on point. I thought that buying a Tudor GMT Pepsi would satisfy my yearning, but it didn’t. I regret the purchase and never wear the watch because I find it to be too thick.

I thought this discussion was informative and I viewed the brands that were mentioned as suggestions, not mandates in our collecting journeys.

Reply
Vladimir G Sokolov says:

Mar 13, 2024 at 15:28

For my opinion 3-4 pieces are enough.I have Omega Seamaster 3000m for regular purpose,Rolex DayJust 41 Wimbledon for occasion and Rolex Cellini Time in white gold for official.

Reply
Dee100i says:

Mar 13, 2024 at 20:52

I’d say Seiko.

Reply