It’s been a lot of fun to witness the resurgence of Chopard over the past several years. It has transformed into a brand I look forward to hearing from during Watches and Wonders. For 2024, L.U. Chopard has brought us two gorgeous pieces in Lucent Steel. These watches, with their sector dials, will likely prove quite popular.

Last year’s L.U.C 1860 is now an undeniable hit. The salmon-sector-dial piece boasts serious waiting lists and is so popular that I’ve struggled to try one on in my new hometown of London. A Chopard watch in high demand may sound foreign, but it’s proof that a great product can generate serious interest even in these more cautious times. With today’s new releases, the brand is hoping to catch fire again. Let’s take a closer look.

L.U. Chopard XPS Forest Green

The L.U.C XPS Forest Green

The first L.U. Chopard release is the XPS Forest Green (ref. 168629-3001) made from Lucent Steel. This is the first XPS made from Chopard’s highly recycled stainless steel, and it comes in the brand’s 40mm by 48.1mm case. It has a classic sector dial with rhodium-plated indices and hands. Chopard has chosen a sunburst finish for its PVD-coated dial with transfer-printed details.

L.U. Chopard XPS Forest Green case back

This XPS uses the brand’s in-house chronometer-certified L.U.C 96.12-L micro-rotor automatic movement. It’s only 3.3mm thick, yet it has a power reserve of 65 hours thanks to two stacked barrels. A display case back shows the movement with its 22K gold rotor and Côtes de Genève on the bridges. The movement allows a svelte 7.2mm total thickness, and the case is water resistant to 30 meters.

L.U. Chopard XPS Forest Green on wrist

Thoughts and pricing on the new L.U. Chopard XPS Forest Green

When I saw the hands-on photographs of this new XPS, I immediately raised my hand to provide written coverage. This is a beautiful watch, and while I like the 36.5mm case from the L.U.C 1860, many find that watch too small. Chopard has a lineup of XPS models, but none have a sector dial like today’s release. It brings a different dimension to what can otherwise come off as a large dial space. At CHF 11,200, this watch is competitive with other high-end time-only watches, and, frankly, I think it’s better looking than any Calatrava on the market today. For more information, visit the Chopard website.

L.U. Chopard Qualité Fleurier

The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier

The second L.U. Chopard release for Watches and Wonders 2024 is the new Qualité Fleurier (ref. 168631-3001). This is a new model that looks back on a previous release from 2005. Now it comes in Lucent Steel with a 39mm diameter, a 46.5mm lug-to-lug, and a slim 8.92mm thickness. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters. Like the XPS before, it also contains a sector dial — well, sort of. Here, the dial is silver and, instead of employing printed lines, uses contrasting finishes and angles to separate the sectors. It also contains luminous elements on the indexes and hands. Note the uncommon welded-lug design and slightly inset crown.

The Qualité Fleurier uses the in-house chronometer-certified L.U.C 96.09-L micro-rotor automatic movement. It has similar characteristics to the movement within the XPS which means 65 hours of power reserve from a twin barrel. The primary differentiator is the Qualité Fleurier certification. This certification covers aesthetics and mechanical testing, including shock resistance and timing precision. The Chronofiable testing regime is used over three weeks on fully cased watches in various temperature and moisture scenarios. Finally, the watches are subjected to the Fleuritest simulator that mimics a wearer’s activities over 24 hours. In the end, the watches must be accurate to between zero and five seconds per day.

L.U. Chopard Qualité Fleurier pocket shot

Thoughts and pricing on the new L.U. Chopard Qualité Fleurier

This is another lovely watch from Chopard. The silver dial is elegant, but the contrasting finishes between the sectors add visual distinction. The lug design is also different than a typical smooth case and reminds me of watches from the 1950s. The Qualité Fleurier specification does bring the cost up to CHF 19,300, so this is certainly more of a specialized offering. Still, I don’t think it will struggle to find an audience. For more information on this model, visit the official Chopard website.

L.U. Chopard Qualité Fleurier close-up

Final thoughts

Large brands typically dominate the news at events like Watches and Wonders. However, it’s important to scope out the quieter releases like today’s L.U. Chopard models. These watches are gorgeous, and while the XPS is technically a dial and case material variation, it’s certainly unique enough within the lineup to warrant excitement. The Qualité Fleurier, on the other hand, is an exhibition of how Chopard imbues quality and reliability into its dressiest offerings. These are well-designed watches that continue Chopard’s string of hits.