What better way to mark 175 years of watchmaking in NOMOS’s hometown of Glashütte than with a new limited-edition watch? I think upping the number to three watches certainly does the trick. Today, NOMOS introduces a trio of new Orion Neomatik models. This limited run celebrates watchmaking in Glashütte, the German seat of the craft.

In stark contrast to the latest NOMOS release — a quartet of Tetras that we covered a few weeks ago — the new Orion Neomatik models opt for a more traditional approach. But there’s a good reason behind that choice. This trio of Orions is meant to pay homage to the watchmaking tradition, and it does so through traditional aesthetics. At the same time, the Neomatik caliber inside means that these watches also embody the brand’s modern watchmaking achievements.

The NOMOS Orion Neomatik 175

As I mentioned, the NOMOS Orion Neomatik 175 will come in three different iterations, each of which is limited to 175 pieces. All three will feature the same silver-plated domed dial with delicate golden indices and heat-blued hands. This subtle change in the usually flat dial’s shape makes a huge difference in giving the watch a completely different feel. There’s something very classical about a domed dial. It was common in many watches from the ’40s and ’50s. Combined with the golden markers, it creates an elegant depth. NOMOS has kept it classy and understated as always, with only the “neomatik” text on the dial (below the 12 o’clock logo) matching the golden tone of the indices.

The two smaller versions — the 36.4mm ref. 395.S1 and the 38.5mm ref. 345.S1 — will feature a no-date configuration. Both of these will use the same caliber, the NOMOS DUW 3001. However, the 36.4mm version has a lower water resistance rating at 3ATM than the other two models at 5ATM. Finally, the DUW 6101-powered reference 365.S1, which comes in a 40.5mm case, is the only one of the three with a date display.

All three watches have an exhibition case back, through which their chronometer-rated movements can be seen and appreciated. After all, it would be odd to celebrate watchmaking and not put the watchmaker’s pride and joy on full display. As you might have come to expect from NOMOS, the in-house movements are beautifully finished. They feature blued screws, perlage, and Glashütte striping as well as gilded text on both the rotor and bridges.

Final thoughts

With a great selection in terms of sizes, these watches are an excellent way of marking this significant anniversary. Celebrating almost two centuries of watchmaking in such an understated way is typical of NOMOS. In the end, these watches shine in their first-glance simplicity, which, upon closer inspection, gives way to a trio of charming watches. My preference for a dressy piece like this would be the 36.4mm model. However, you really can’t go wrong. These will be available soon, mainly through selected retailers, with some available on the NOMOS website. These exceptional Orion watches will be priced at €3,040, €3,180, and €3,500 (from smallest to largest).

What do you think of these limited-edition NOMOS Orion Neomatik 175 models? Do you also appreciate their classic looks? Or do you prefer some of the brand’s bolder and more colorful offerings? As always, do leave your thoughts in the comments below.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Orion Neomatik 175
Reference
395.S1 / 345.S1 / 365.S1
Dial
Silver electroplated domed dial with golden faceted hour markers
Case Material
Stainless steel
Case Dimensions
36.4mm × 45mm × 8.5mm / 38.5mm × 47.5mm × 8.7mm / 40.5mm × 50.5mm × 9.4mm
Crystal
Sapphire crystal
Case Back
Exhibition case back with sapphire crystal
Movement
DUW 3001 or DUW 6101 (date) — automatic winding, 21,600vph frequency, 42-hour power reserve, 27 jewels, NOMOS swing system escapement
Water Resistance
3ATM (ref. 395.S1) / 5ATM (refs. 345.S1 and 365.S1)
Strap
Horween Shell Corodovan black leather strap
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds ) and date (ref. 365.S1 only)
Price
€3,040 / €3,180 / and €3,500