NOMOS’s Tangente neomatik is a classic timepiece that never gets old. And the Glashütte-based watchmaker knows it. Here comes a new take on it that amalgamates the brand’s winning ingredients. From the minimalist aesthetic to the in-house automatic movement, the latest Tangente neomatik is instantly recognizable in a NOMOS style. It revisits one of the brand’s favorite deep blue colors in a galvanized and sunburst finish. The new model comes in two case diameters of 35 and 38.5 millimeters.

Iconic designs

Since its founding in 1990, NOMOS has developed a reputation for crafting high-quality and effortlessly wearable watches with an incredibly consistent design language. The brand’s relentless focus on details makes its watches intrinsically gratifying to look at (especially for anyone with obsessive tendencies). The designs are so wholesome that they do not give you that subconscious nagging feeling that something is unbalanced. And it’s no wonder that the German brand has amassed no less than 160 prestigious awards and prizes for design and watchmaking craft, including one from the GPHG.

NOMOS Tangente neomatik Blue Gold

The core model line

The Tangente is NOMOS’s flagship collection and has spawned faithful and timeless designs for 30 years. It blends Bauhaus-style elements with its signature circular case in the shape of a coin with angled lugs. The new Tangente neomatik time-only model boasts a deep blue sunburst dial, which is gold plated before being galvanized to produce an alluring shimmer. Apart from the color variations, the Blue Gold model has the exact execution compared to the prior platinum-gray version launched almost a year ago to the day (which Rob reviewed here).

NOMOS Tangente neomatik Blue Gold

Signature features

Other signature features include the numerals in the Tangente typography and a small seconds sub-dial above 6 o’clock. The dial has five Arabic-numeral hour markers as well as minute markers around the outer rim. The hands are plated with rhodium, and the sapphire crystal has an antireflective coating on the inside. Under the NOMOS Glashütte logo is the “neomatik” designation in gold letters. This indicates an in-house DUW 3001 caliber beating underneath.

The neomatiks

The neomatik — with the “n” in the lowercase as a typographical hallmark — is a collective name for the watches that run on the DUW movement series (including the 3001 and the newer 6101 with a peripheral date ring). The Tangente here has a DUW 3001 ticking inside. This full-rotor automatic movement is very thin, measuring a mere 3.2mm in height. This allows the watch to have a sleek profile and wear like a second skin.

The DUW 3001

As the German watchmaker has become a full-fledged manufacturer, making all of its movements in-house since 2015, the DUW 3001 is a showcase of its capabilities. Not only does it incorporate the in-house “swing system” escapement (with its tempered blue balance spring and balance bridge fixed by screws on both sides), but it also features NOMOS’s three-quarter-plate construction.

This stop-seconds movement carries 27 jewels and provides a 43-hour power reserve. NOMOS also regulates the movement in six positions to fall within chronometer standards. To top it off, this caliber is quite a sight to behold with thermally blued screws, rhodium plating, Glashütte ribbing, and NOMOS perlage.

The size variations

The two sizes of this new Tangente neomatik — Blue Gold 35 and Blue Gold 39 — come with polished stainless steel cases in 35mm and 38.5mm diameters, respectively. NOMOS also offers the choice of a solid steel back or a display back with an AR-coated sapphire crystal. The former measures 6.7mm and the latter 6.9mm in height. Each watch also comes with a black Horween Shell Cordovan leather strap, featuring rolled edges and a signed pin buckle.

Prices range from €2,640 for the solid-back 35mm model to €3,080 for the larger version with a display case back. For more information on these new Tangente neomatik models, please visit the NOMOS Glashütte website.