The Top 5 Watches That Should Never Have Been Discontinued — Part 2
Another Friday, another list! Two weeks ago, we published a list of five watches that should never have been discontinued. In our eyes, those watches are classics and deserve a permanent spot in their respective brands’ collections. This week, we want to add five more watches to the list. We might have slipped in a suggestion from our readers and picked a few more that we appreciate and would love to see return sooner rather than later.
This week’s list continues the selection of watches that deserve a place in their brands’ permanent catalogs based on design, history, legacy, or a combination of the three. As I mentioned two weeks ago, we don’t have access to these brands’ financial information, so we can only guess whether commercial reasons are behind the discontinuation of most of these watches. But considering their status as classics, we would simply love to see these watches return to their makers’ collections.
Seiko SKX007/009
Our first pick is the classic Seiko SKX series. It was the most mentioned omission from our first list, so it only made sense to include it in this week’s Top 5. As some of you might know, I’m not the biggest fan of the SKX series. The design is not for me, and I much prefer the Sumo as the classic Seiko diver to get, as I explained in a recent article. But that doesn’t mean I don’t understand and appreciate the SKX’s legendary status. It is one of the most well-respected entry-level watches and has made so many of us fall in love with this hobby.
As most of you know, it was replaced by the Seiko 5 Sports collection. It was interesting to see that the Seiko 5 Sports series was not presented at its launch as a successor to the SKX. The reason was simple: the new series has half the water resistance, no screw-down crown, and lacks the ISO Diver status, making it less interesting for SKX fans. Instead, Seiko initially presented the 5 Sports as a line of watches inspired by the SKX’s design rather than replacing it or referring to it. Over time, though, the brand has created an actual “SKX series” within the 5 Sports lineup.
If ever there were a replacement for the SKX…
We all know it’s unlikely that we’ll see an SKX-style diver in the Prospex lineup soon. Currently, no dive watch in it sports the SKX’s look. We’re pretty sure that if Seiko ever releases an updated version, watch enthusiasts will be all over it. Until then, your best chance will always be the pre-owned market. But since the SKX is also a popular watch to modify, enthusiasts have bought up much of the supply.
Whether you prefer the black SKX007 or the blue-and-red SKX009, expect prices between €300 and €1,000. You can absolutely get one if you want one, but wouldn’t it be a lot cooler if Seiko honored the legendary SKX series with a proper modern successor? We definitely think so, and that’s why it is our first pick.
Image: The Watch Club
Omega Railmaster ref. 220.10.38.20.01.002
Our next pick isn’t a watch that Omega discontinued from its regular collection, as it was part of a limited run to begin with. As many of you know, though, Omega’s efforts to create a modern Railmaster have been a bit of a struggle. In 2017, the brand presented a rendition of the classic Railmaster CK2914, part of the original trilogy of Speedmaster, Seamaster, and Railmaster models. It showed the direction that Omega could have taken with the modern Railmaster. While the current Railmaster certainly shares visual cues with the original, the overall vibe is completely different.
Image: The Watch Club
The case shape should let the signature dial shine. Omega persists in using the Aqua Terra case for the current Railmaster, while the 60th-anniversary model from 2017 shows that a different, slightly simpler case design does the trick. Just looking at the 2017 reissue of the CK2914, it doesn’t look outdated or any less relevant. Just like the original from 1957, the watch had a 38mm case, and that is still a relevant size. Omega even downsized the Railmaster from 40mm for the previous generation to 38mm now. If it had a simpler case with a flat-link bracelet, which Omega still uses for its Speedmaster and Seamaster 300 lines, it could be a modern Railmaster we would rally behind.
Image: The Watch Club
A Railmaster that looks like the 60th-anniversary model could be a hit among enthusiasts
Funnily enough, the current Railmaster dial design looks a lot like the original and, therefore, like the dial of the 60th-anniversary model. Omega updated the design, particularly the font used for the Arabic numerals, so there isn’t much to change there. It would be great, however, if the dials weren’t gradient ones, like the current options, but a simple black one, as was used for the CK2914 back in the day, and maybe a small number of new colors.
Image: The Watch Club
So technically, the Railmaster is not “discontinued.” But if you allow us, we’ll play with the term to focus on the 60th-anniversary Railmaster from 2017 and show that we’d love to see a modern Railmaster like that. It feels like Omega missed an opportunity when that trilogy model sold out and did not get a proper follow-up. But it does show that Omega has the ingredients to create a wonderful version of the Railmaster that could be what the Explorer is for Rolex today.
Tudor Heritage Chrono
Our next pick for watches that should never have been discontinued is the Tudor Heritage Chrono. Two weeks ago, I talked about the Black Bay 58 Blue and explained how it taps into Tudor’s history and should therefore always be part of the brand’s collection. The same goes for the Tudor Heritage Chrono, a design inspired by the classic Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph ref. 7169/0 “Monte Carlo” from the 1970s. The Heritage Chrono debuted at Baselworld 2010 with gray and black dials, and a white-and-blue version followed in 2013. The Tudor designers did a great job of bringing the original design into modern times.
Like the vintage versions, the discontinued Heritage Chrono featured a remarkable design combining the base colors with touches of orange. The modern versions also featured a rotating bezel with a 12-hour scale, whereas the ’70s models had a fixed bezel. The Heritage Chrono measures 42mm wide, 13mm thick, and a little over 50mm long. It would be great if Tudor could size it down somewhat without losing the right proportions. Hiding in the Heritage Chrono was the brand’s caliber T401. This was an ETA 2892 base movement with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module.
There is room for a new, smaller Tudor Heritage Chrono
The Heritage Chrono is an iconic Tudor model with a remarkable, brand-specific design. That’s why so many fans love the vintage Monte Carlos and the modern reissues, which Tudor discontinued in 2023. Since then, the brand has focused its chronograph efforts on the Black Bay line. With the recent introduction of the 39mm Black Bay Chrono, we also see an opening for an updated Heritage Chrono that is smaller and still uses the iconic styling. In a collection largely inspired by Rolex watches, the Heritage Chrono proudly stands out as a Tudor-unique design that enthusiasts love. That’s why it deserves a permanent spot in the brand’s collection.
Top Time “early case” ref. 810 group — Image: Fred Mandelbaum
Breitling Top Time ref. 810
Breitling’s current Top Time collection features a colorful lineup of race- and cycling-inspired chronographs. But the Top Time model Breitling fans love is the classic ref. 810 with a reverse panda dial.
Image: Fred Mandelbaum
The original Top Time ref. 810 was part of the Breitling catalog from 1964 to 1972 and represented the brand’s sportier side. As a result, it looked much cleaner than the iconic Navitimer and Chronomat chronographs of those days. This was thanks to a toned-down dial and a more straightforward case.
Image: Fred Mandelbaum
When Breitling reintroduced the Top Time in 2020, it did so with a modern take on that classic case. But we never saw a rerelease of the iconic reverse panda dial that made the ref. 810 such a beloved classic. Instead, Breitling unveiled a series of colorful limited-edition models, the Top Time Classic Cars Capsule Collection, and a collab with Triumph Motorcycles. Since then, the Top Time line has expanded to include more colorful watches related to the cycling world and the partnership with Aston Martin. Additionally, Breitling released a series of three-handers. All this has led to a rather extensive series of colorful Top Time watches.
Image: Fred Mandelbaum
Can Breitling make it slightly smaller?
But the one we’d love to see is the Top Time with a reverse panda dial, inspired by the classic ref. 810 — no dual branding, no reference to classic cars or cycling, just a clean black-and-white aesthetic that harks back to the ’60s classic. It would also be awesome if Breitling could bring it back in its original 38mm size instead of using the current round 41mm Top Time chronograph case. This might all be wishful thinking, but I’m good with that. What is clear, though, is that the Top Time ref. 810, one of the coolest chronographs that Breitling ever created, deserves a modern successor in the collection.
Omega Speedmaster X-33
While browsing through the Omega website for this article, we noticed that the Speedmaster X-33 was missing from the current lineup. We didn’t expect to see a world where the quirky yet famous X-33 wasn’t part of the brand’s collection. The discontinued model is the Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer, which Omega launched in 2022 during a special Speedy Tuesday event at the European Space Agency Visitor Center in the Netherlands. It was the fourth generation of the X-33, developed with specific functions for measuring time on Mars.
The hematite-colored bezel is reminiscent of the dust on Mars. It’s a nice touch on top of the specific functions developed in collaboration with people at ESA (European Space Agency). In his introductory article, Robert-Jan explained the different functions in detail. It was great to see a follow-up to the X-33 Skywalker, especially in the environment it is used in at ESA. It gave us a great idea of how extraordinary space travel is.
The legacy of the X-33 is far greater than the last model
That’s also why it is not just about the Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer. The X-33’s history as one of the defining watches for space travel is widely documented here on Fratello. The X-33 is still used today as the standard watch aboard spacecraft, as we saw most recently during the Artemis II mission, which Robert-Jan reported on. This tells us that the X-33 is more than just a Speedmaster. We covered all four generations in a lengthy article, which will give you a good idea of what makes the X-33 series so important for space travel.
As we have a healthy obsession with space travel and a deep love for the Speedmaster, many members of the Fratello team own a Speedmaster X-33. Therefore, you will understand that we would love to see it return to the brand’s collection sooner rather than later. The collaborations with both NASA and ESA remain highly relevant, as there is much more to explore in space. It seems unlikely that Omega won’t be part of that with its Speedmaster X-33.
Final thoughts
There you have it — our second group of five watches that should not have been discontinued. While it’s hard to believe that we won’t see some of them return, others are, admittedly, more wishful thinking. Once again, plenty of other options could have made this second list. That’s why I want to turn the question over to you once again. What watches do you feel should never have been discontinued? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for a new list.
