A Hands-On Introduction To The Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S And 1.GMT
We all love Holthinrichs here at Fratello. It’s great to see a Dutch brand thriving in the watch industry, especially with such distinct designs. On top of that, the brand is located in the lovely city of Delft, just around the corner from the Fratello offices in The Hague. Being so close to the impressive new Holthinrichs headquarters allowed us to get a first look at the new Lab Series 1.S and Lab Series 1.GMT, the first special releases celebrating the brand’s 10th anniversary. I had a chance to get some first impressions of these two new pieces with stunning domed copper-oxide patina dials.
The Holthinrichs Lab Series is not a new addition to the brand’s lineup, but it still feels that way. Every time I see a new version of one of the Lab Series, I am amazed by its presence. The team at Holthinrichs seems to master the art of creating new dials to accompany the signature case that presents something new every time. For these two new releases, Holthinrichs used its “Horlogerie Brut” concept to create wildly spectacular domed copper-oxide patina dials. When wearing these watches, it’s hard not to constantly look at them. That’s exactly what happened in the short time that we had the Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT in for a quick hands-on experience.
The story of the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT
The Holthinrichs Lab Series has been around for a few years now. In 2024, Daan reported on the Signature Lab Series and explained its concept. The limited-edition watches in it have a similar case to the lightweight Signature Ornament, but they’re 3D printed rather than CNC machined.
On top of that, the elegantly flowing lugs are skeletonized for a completely different feel. The case is paired with domed dials made from solid metal that get special Horlogerie Brut treatments. This concept focuses on creating textures, finishes, and colors that are directly derived from manufacturing processes and the inherent material properties. The result is an experimental series of watches that stand out immediately.
For these new Lab Series releases, Holthinrichs drew on two key elements of the brand’s history. The first is the small-seconds layout of the first watch that Michiel Holthinrichs created 10 years ago, which comes back in Lab Series 1.S. Secondly, the Raw Ornament Bronze from 2021 introduced the Horlogerie Brut concept applied to both of these new timepieces. As a result, the new Lab Series releases are great storytellers.
The details of the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT
Let’s zoom in on the details. Both watches have the same 3D-printed Grade 5 titanium case, measuring 38.5mm wide, 46mm long, and 9.85mm thick (7.8mm excluding the domed sapphire crystal). Overall, the elegantly flowing case feels slim, and the level of detail and finishing is impressive.
I had the brand’s Lab Series 1.24 on my wrist last year for the wrist shots in Daan’s article. Once the new models landed on my desk, I remembered instantly what I love so much about the case. Overall, the Art Deco-like presence of these watches feels graceful and elegant. But once you zoom in on the rough textures and the natural colors, you see the stunning contrast that characterizes these timepieces.
For this new duo, the in-house-created dials are truly special. Both watches feature domed copper-oxide patina dials. It all starts with a domed, solid piece of copper. The base dials get a sunburst pattern and layers milled and laser-etched into the surface. After that, the copper patina is then applied through a special in-house manufacturing process. Holthinrichs refined and mastered this process for its Raw Ornament Bronze. After treatment, the dials feature a unique color and texture. These new ones have a predominantly azure-blue tone with mossy-green accents.
Getting a feel for the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S
But since they are two distinct models, the details differ as well. The first is the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S. This one features a sunburst pattern radiating from the sub-seconds register. As you can see, the sub-dial is predominantly dark green, thanks to the pattern. Furthermore, the brand logo is located at 12 o’clock in a light goldish tone. A detail that I love is the titanium cantilevered hour markers that seem to hover above the dial. The faceted, beautifully finished hands complete the look.
If you turn the watch around, you are greeted by the patinated, hand-carved, and heat-treated rotor of the Sellita SW360-1. On top of that, the tungsten rotor is ground and heat-treated to achieve subtle blue and purple tones. As a result, the caliber matches the watch’s dial-side presence. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, features 31 jewels, and offers a 56-hour power reserve. Finishing the watch’s stellar look is a rooster-leg-leather cognac strap with a branded titanium buckle.
The wild presence of the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.GMT
The second model is the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.GMT. This one has an even more spectacular dial. The base is still a solid domed piece of copper. But on top of a sunburst pattern, it features a map to emphasize that this is a travel watch. The image is an azimuthal projection of Earth viewed from the North Pole. Holthinrichs chose this specific layout because it naturally references the radial division of time zones originating from the Earth’s rotational axis. For this dial, the axis translates into the position of the watch hands. The darker brown tones of the map are created by hand with a microbrush, selectively removing excess patina.
Additionally, you will see a 24-hour ring consisting of dotted markers and Breguet-style numerals. The brass-colored markers and numerals have a brushed finish. As a result, they contrast nicely with the dial color while matching the texture perfectly. Just like the Lab Series 1.S, the GMT version also features cantilevered titanium hour markers. But for this special travel watch, the hands and markers have a filling of Super-LumiNova. Additionally, the handset includes a slim seconds hand with a nicely domed tip and a brass-colored GMT hand.
The Sellita SW330-2 powers the Lab Series 1.GMT
If you turn the watch around, you are once again greeted by a customized rotor. This Lab Series 1.GMT houses the Sellita SW330-2. This 25-jewel automatic GMT movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a 56-hour power reserve. The SW330-2 is a caller-style GMT caliber, so it unfortunately doesn’t offer the practicality of an independently adjustable 12-hour hand.
But what you get in return in terms of presence makes up for that. Once again, the visual impact of that custom rotor is impressive, and it fits the overall concept and presence very nicely. Though we received this watch on the same cognac-colored rooster-leg-leather strap as the Lab Series 1.S, it will come standard with a burgundy one and a titanium pin buckle.
Wearing the Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S and 1.GMT
On the wrist, these two timepieces show their visual brilliance. The combination of the elegant but visually striking case with the stunning dials is something else.
Not only do you instantly get the feeling of wearing something truly special, but you also can see and feel the craftsmanship that went into creating the watches. I found the Lab Series 1.S particularly amazing. The simplicity of that model gives the materials and textures maximal room to shine, and I love that. While I am a big GMT guy, this time, the small-seconds model is the favorite.
That said, in terms of detail and overall impact, the GMT is equally special. Realizing that the map was created with a tiny brush and a super steady hand makes the respect for what Holthinrichs has achieved with these two limited editions even greater.
I am certain that all 100 available pieces of both models will find their way to their new owners soon. In today’s watch industry, these are simply too good and too special to ignore.
The 100 pieces of the Lab Series 1.S each cost €5,900, while the 100 examples of the Lab Series 1.GMT each retail for €6,500, both prices excluding taxes. Both are available to order on the brand’s official website. For the money, you get a truly striking, distinctive timepiece that marks the start of the brand’s 10th-anniversary releases in this special year. It’s a brilliant start, and I can’t wait to see more from Holthinrichs in 2026.
