Just recently we wrote an article on the Breguet 5447BR Classique Grande Complication, a € 268.000 Euro timepiece that is mind blowing, but also about a ‘dream piece’. Unless something happens in the lottery, it will stay a ‘dream piece’ as well I am afraid. A bit closer to the wallet is the Breguet we are featuring today here on Fratello Watches. The Breguet Tradition GMT. Almost two years ago we wrote about the Breguet La Tradition that was already introduced in the mid-2000s and featured the escapement on the dial side and had a pocketwatch-like construction (read more here).
The Breguet Tradition GMT is another version of that family of watches with the escapement on the dial side of the watch as well as other visible mechanical parts. I have a weak spot for GMT and world timer watches so I am more than happy to talk about this high-end timepiece with an extra time zone.
As you can see on the photo above, the Breguet Tradition GMT has the fluted round gold case that I praised so much in our Breguet Classique Grande Complication (5447BR) article. Although I am not the type of guy that often wears classic or dress watches, the Breguet cases are something I really could get used to.
The version we have here is the rose gold model with a 40mm diameter case. A very attractive size for a dress watch as I feel that many of its competitors have cases that are rather small for tall people. With a thickness of just 12,65mm it is a watch with modest dimensions. If the rose gold puts you off, you might want to check out the white gold version. Both versions come on a handsome leather alligator strap with a gold folding clasp.
However, aside from the dimensions or case material, this Breguet Tradition GMT is about fine watchmaking and the level of detail and finish.
The dial of the watch is as impressive as its transparent case back. The hand-made guilloché dial at 12 o’clock displays the home time while the small sub dial at 8 o’clock displays the 2nd time zone. At 10 o’clock there is another little sub dial to indicate day / night for the 2nd time zone (reference time zone).
All hands are the typical Breguet style hands, open-tipped and beautifully polished.
As you can see, the movement has received an anthracite-grey surface treatment, giving it an awesome technical appearance. In my opinion, it is rather a bit industrial looking, which I like very much though.
Below is a photo of the movement of the Breguet Tradition GMT. The transparent caseback demonstrates the very nice anthracite-grey treatment of the caliber 507DRF movement.
A fine mechanism is in place (located at the upper left lug on the photo below) for the power reserve indicator. The small arrow of the mechanism points out the position on the scale below, in this picture at approx 50% which is about 25 hours of power reserve. I love the sharp edges and rectangular shapes on the movement, it also gives the movement this industrial look again. Wonderful!
The Breguet Tradition GMT has a little pusher located at 10 o’clock that needs to be unscrewed before use. By pushing this button, the hour hand of the local time zone (or home time) at 12 o’clock will increase in steps of 1 hour each. The reference time (or 2nd time zone) is being adjusted with the crown at 3 o’clock of course. A very easy watch to operate and to use while travelling or when you – for example – have family or business in another time zone you want to contact.
An attractive formal watch with a very useful complication, this Breguet Tradition GMT. List price is approximately € 33.000,- Euro (~ $39,500.- USD) for this beautiful time piece.
This price gives you a whole range of very serious time pieces from the high-end brands, so I can only imagine it will be quite difficult to make a choice. Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne also operate in this price range and are perhaps more obvious choices for many watch enthusiasts out there. However, the style, history and level of finish of Breguet is something I came to appreciate over time. Whether it is your style – or suits your style is perhaps a better phrase – is entirely up to you.
More information on the Breguet Tradition GMT can be found here.
Ever since he was a young child, Robert-Jan was drawn to watches, even though it were digital Casio and quartz Swatch models at the time. In the mid-1990s, his interest increased when he started to read about mechanical watches in... read more