The Best Summer Watches: Ben’s Five Picks From Orient Star, Longines, Fears, Hermès, And Richard Mille

Well, this week in the UK, and much of central Europe, sits firmly in the grip of an intense heatwave. Honestly, I’ll take a cold, wet day over this any time. Still, summer is here, and the vibes are unavoidable. So, let’s look at some watches that can handle the heat across different price points.

What I’ve really enjoyed about this series, aside from the watches themselves, is the variety of opinions on what defines a summer watch. My view aligns with most, but I have a few firm rules. A proper summer watch should handle whatever the season throws at it. If you feel the need to remove it before jumping in the pool, it’s not a summer watch. If you worry about scratching it, leave it in the box until fall. A summer watch should take sand, saltwater, sunscreen, ice cream, and mosquito spray without complaint. Ideally, it shrugs everything off with a quick rinse in the shower, then does it all again the next day. Intricate cases with sharp facets also fall short. If it’s difficult to clean with a microfiber cloth, it doesn’t belong here.

What is a summer watch?

That rules out watches like a Rolex Datejust with a fluted bezel or a Bvlgari Octo Finissimo. Both look great, but neither suits this brief. A summer watch needs a simpler case with smoother surfaces. Straps matter too. Leather, suede, and Alcantara don’t belong here. You can remove them, but by then, they’ve already absorbed sweat, grime, and sunscreen. They wear out fast in these conditions. Instead, go for metal or rubber. They dry quickly and clean easily. And yes, I’ll say it — NATO straps don’t work either. They soak up water and stay damp far too long. I’ve had to take NATO straps off to dry them in the sun, with the watch heads in the pockets of my swim shorts. That’s not practical, and it’s definitely not what I want in a summer watch.

So, with these parameters in place, here are my summer picks to suit all budgets.

The best summer watch under €1k: Orient Star Contemporary Date — €659.99

First up, comfortably under the €1k mark, is the Orient Star Contemporary Date. This specific model is the 75th-anniversary limited edition, capped at 1,200 pieces, with an “Aurora” blue-green dial. The name references the aurora borealis, a natural phenomenon rarely visible during summer months. Still, the turquoise tone feels more at home by the water, calling to mind Caribbean coastlines rather than winter skies.

Beyond the dial, this Orient Star impresses with solid build quality and a dependable 316L stainless steel bracelet. The 38.5mm Contemporary case hits an easy sweet spot for daily wear. The dial layout also works well, with a balanced design that includes a 50‑hour power reserve indicator. Everything remains clear and legible, even in harsh summer light.

The best summer watch under €2.5k: Longines HydroConquest — €2,200

Next up is the Longines HydroConquest, a watch I’d happily wear all summer long without a second thought. I’m focusing on the latest third‑generation model in a 39mm stainless steel case with a navy-blue dial. While rubber straps offer a nice contrast, this watch feels right on a bracelet. Longines gives you the choice between an H‑link and a Milanese option.

I already own two watches on Milanese mesh — the Breitling SuperOcean Heritage and my Planet Ocean. Yet here, I’d choose the H‑link bracelet, mostly because it costs €100 less. But also, this particular Milanese bracelet style, with straight end links, is easy to replicate with aftermarket options. The H‑link, however, integrates cleanly with the HydroConquest case. It feels more considered and ultimately more fitting for the watch.

The best summer watch under €5k: Fears Brunswick 40 Helmsman ES — €3,960

Another recent release is the Fears Brunswick 40 Helmsman. Sailing places specific demands on a watch. Especially useful is having a smooth case that won’t snag on lines. Notice I said “lines,” not “rope.” On a sailing vessel, every line has a name — halyards, sheets, reef lines — with each tied to a specific function. That detail matters when giving instructions. Saying “pull the rope” means nothing, but “raise the mainsheet” is a precise command. In fact, as the saying goes, the only rope on a boat is attached to the ship’s bell.

Back to the watch, the Fears Brunswick case stays true to that requirement. Its smooth, brushed, rounded profile feels comfortable and practical on the wrist. The textured dial helps cut glare in direct sunlight, which makes a real difference on open water. The sailcloth/rubber hybrid strap leans into the nautical theme, but more importantly, it handles moisture with ease. And thanks to the case’s 200m water resistance rating, you can dive off the back of the boat without a second thought. Adding to the peace of mind is the secure, screw-down onion crown.

The best summer watch under €10k: Hermès H08 — €7,700

Stepping up in price, we land at Hermès. The H08 has become a symbol of the brand’s resurgence in watchmaking. While Hermès impresses with complications and playful automatons, nothing beats a dependable sports watch. That’s exactly why I’ve picked the H08 here.

I’d go straight for the rubber strap, which breaks my usual rule of buying the bracelet first. In this case, the colorful strap options are just too good to ignore. They bring a sense of fun that suits summer perfectly.

My pick is the titanium H08 with a slight orange accent and a matching rubber strap. It feels light, vibrant, and easy to wear. That’s exactly what I want when the temperature climbs.

My infinite-budget option: Richard Mille Pablo Mac Donough RM 53-01 — €1 million

When the brief called for an unlimited budget, I took that personally. This watch from Richard Mille sits well beyond my wildest dreams and likely those of most other collectors. Still, it fits my criteria as a genuinely tough, capable summer watch, albeit with more facets to clean and only 50m water resistance.

A bit of context helps. The original 2012 RM053 Pablo Mac Donough stood apart within the Richard Mille lineup. It kept the signature tonneau titanium case but introduced a largely closed dial. Two angled apertures displayed the time, prioritizing protection over showmanship.

Like the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Reverso, the concept draws from polo, where impacts often shattered watch crystals. Richard Mille responded with a reinforced titanium dial cover. That early version remained extremely limited, with just 15 pieces produced.

Collectors, however, favored skeletonized dials and technical displays. Richard Mille adapted in 2018 with the RM053‑01. It introduced a cable‑suspended, shock‑resistant tourbillon movement. The real breakthrough came with its laminated sapphire crystal, adapted from architectural applications. It might crack under serious force, but it won’t shatter.

The NTPT case, paired with light blue rubber and matching accents, keeps things unmistakably Richard Mille. Limited to 30 pieces, it originally retailed just under €1 million. Today, who knows? The watch now sits in the historical section of Richard Mille’s website, slightly forgotten. Either way, this remains my ultimate summer fantasy watch.

So, what do you think of my picks? Let me know in the comments below. And if you haven’t done so already under one of my colleagues’ articles, share your criteria and picks for summer watches there, too!