Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case

It took a while, but the 2016 Overseas Ultra-Thin finally has a successor. Ten years after the launch of the 40 × 7.5mm white gold reference 2000V/120G-B122 with caliber 1120, a 39.5 × 7.35mm platinum timepiece debuts. Introducing the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin reference 2500V/210P-H028 outfitted with the new 2.4mm-thick caliber 2550 featuring a micro-rotor and twin barrels.

How can you best reduce the thickness of a case while not sacrificing the practicality of an automatic movement? By changing from a movement with a central rotor to one with a micro-rotor, that’s how. And that’s exactly what Vacheron Constantin did. It’s easier said than done, though. It took seven years to develop the ultra-thin automatic caliber 2550. It debuts inside the new platinum Self-Winding Ultra-Thin at Watches and Wonders 2026.

Introducing the platinum Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin with a new micro-rotor movement

Updating the central-rotor caliber 1120 and putting it inside the new platinum Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin was not an option. The movement first appeared inside the round case of the Vacheron Constantin reference 7398, a slim dress watch, in 1968. Caliber 1120, which is actually the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 under a different name, is a tried-and-true golden oldie, and it deserves a well-earned rest after many decades of good service. That 28.4 × 2.45mm movement enabled the creation of the 7.5mm-thick Overseas Ultra-Thin in 2016. The 2026 Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin is 15 hundredths of a millimeter thinner than its 2016 predecessor. How did VC find “all that” extra space? Creating a 2.4mm-thick movement with a micro-rotor instead of a central one is part of the answer.

Switching from a central to a micro-rotor enabled a 0.05mm reduction in the new movement’s thickness compared to the previous one. Marginal gains matter when creating ultra-thin watches. The in-house caliber 2550 has a 30.6mm diameter, a 3Hz frequency, and an approximate 80-hour power reserve, which is relatively high for a movement this slim. Apart from the platinum micro-rotor integrated into the mainplate, the movement features a double-barrel system and a single-level gear train. The winding system operates in both directions, and a key feature of the movement is its two-barrel configuration. The barrels are arranged in a stacked formation and operate in series, with one transmitting energy to the other. This compact setup delivers longer, more stable power. By modifying the conventional barrel construction, including removing certain components, Vacheron Constantin could keep the movement’s thickness in check.

Limited vertical space, but plenty of room for decorations

Since there’s limited vertical space, VC arranged the gear train on a single level. It consists of five wheels, two of which sit on ball bearings to reduce friction and improve durability. This configuration is both efficient and stable, another hard-to-accomplish characteristic with an ultra-thin movement.

Finishing adheres to Vacheron Constantin’s traditional high standards, and that’s why the watch bears the Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva). The bridges feature Geneva stripes and beveled edges, while the mainplate displays abundant perlage. The micro-rotor features a combination of satin and grained surfaces, along with a decorative compass rose inspired by the Overseas collection. Other components, such as the wheels and barrel, show sunburst brushing and snailed patterns.

Slim

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin looks delicate and slim, but is actually a heavyweight. Not only is the 39.5 × 7.35mm case made of 950 platinum, but so are the bracelet and clasp. This is a first for the Overseas collection, by the way. Since the Overseas is a sporty all-arounder at heart, to make the platinum resistant to daily wear, VC uses an alloy that incorporates a small percentage of additional metals and undergoes a hardening treatment intended to improve scratch resistance. The material is new, just like the movement, but the case retains the familiar Overseas design language. There’s a tonneau-shaped mid-case and a bezel inspired by the brand’s Maltese cross emblem. A sapphire-crystal-equipped case back reveals the movement, and the watch is water resistant to 50 meters.

The dial, with its soft salmon tone, has a lacquered finish combined with a sunburst satin texture in the center and a contrasting peripheral minute track. The choice to use a salmon color for a dial is a reference to mid-20th-century VC creations. The white gold applied hour markers and handset feature blue-glowing Super-LumiNova for visibility in low light. Historically correct, utterly discreet, and sophisticated is the absence of a date indication and a seconds hand. You get two hands displaying hours and minutes. That’s it, and it’s more than enough.

Heavy

In my humble opinion, the watch looks best on the integrated platinum bracelet with polished and satin-brushed links. Although I haven’t weighed the watch yet, it could very well tip the scales at 270 grams, around the weight of a platinum Land Dweller 40. Luckily, the watch comes with two quick-release-equipped straps, one in beige rubber and one in dark beige alligator leather with a “nubuck touch” finish and an interchangeable platinum pin buckle. The rubber strap lightens the watch’s mood more and gives it a very sporty look.

Limitations

The platinum Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin (ref. 2500V / 210P-H028) is a limited edition of 255 individually numbered pieces. Distribution is also restricted to Vacheron Constantin boutiques. The price of this perfectly proportioned, ultra-luxurious timepiece is €119,000 (in the Netherlands). Price and availability are strong limitations, although a production run of 255 pieces is quite generous. That means the gross revenue VC will make if all 255 sell at full retail value will be €30,345,000.

I hope the brand doesn’t blow it all on a huge celebration bash but, instead, after getting back the money spent on movement development, invests it in something more tangible. What about something that all watch fans can aspire to? I’m thinking maybe a steel, unlimited Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin with the new caliber 2550 at an old-fashioned price level made possible by selling out of all platinum pieces. Let’s say around €25k. I can dream, can’t I?