Last year was a big one for Zenith, celebrating the manufacture’s 160th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand introduced the impressive Zenith G.F.J. The release brought back the legendary caliber 135 and marked the start of a new series of dress watches. But after that release, it remained quiet until today. Today, the inaugural G.F.J. gets a proper follow-up with two striking models. The first is a yellow gold G.F.J. with a stunning bloodstone dial, and the second is a tantalum variant with a beautiful black onyx dial. The two watches immediately reminded me of what makes the G.F.J. such a great release. Let me explain why.

Last year, quite a few brands were celebrating notable anniversaries. One of them was Zenith. Besides a string of blue ceramic versions of existing models, the brand also unveiled the new G.F.J. The story of the watch was two-fold. First, the G.F.J. paid tribute to Zenith’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. Second, the watch was powered by a caliber honoring the brand’s most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. This story now gets a second act with two new versions that look rather striking.

yellow gold Zenith G.F.J. 30.1865.0135/56.C216 on its side with crown up

The details of the Zenith G.F.J.

Let’s start with the details that both watches share before we focus on the differences. First up are the dimensions. These watches feature the same 39.15mm diameter, 10.5mm thickness, and 45.15mm lug-to-lug. The case design includes a characteristic stepped bezel and beautifully curved and stepped lugs, and a mix of finishes further emphasizes the brilliance of their yellow gold and tantalum forms. On the right side of the case, you will find the crown proudly featuring the G.F.J. initials, referring to Zenith’s founder, the namesake of this collection.

tantalum Zenith G.F.J. 98.1865.0135/21.C205 flat-lay on blue leather tray

Furthermore, the modern version of the classic Zenith caliber 135 powers both watches. As I explained in last year’s article on the inaugural G.F.J., the original caliber was produced from 1949 to 1962. The standard version was commercially available, while the special 135-O was created exclusively for observatory chronometry trials. It ended up winning a total of 235 chronometry prizes. Zenith developed a new version of the movement using the same architecture, dimensions, and overall look. On top of that, the brand updated it by using modern-day techniques and materials.

yellow gold Zenith G.F.J. 30.1865.0135/56.C21 sticking out of shirt pocket, face down, next to pair of tweezers

The modern Zenith caliber 135

For example, spring-mounted jewel settings now protect the balance staff. Zenith also modernized the power reserve from 40 to 72 hours. Thanks to the optimized tooth geometry, the caliber became more efficient. Additionally, the offset center wheel creates space to accommodate the oversized balance wheel, improving both precision and stability. Furthermore, Zenith added a hacking mechanism that lets you set the time to the second.

Zenith caliber 135 macro

Importantly, however, the signature double-arrow-shaped regulator has stayed, allowing for precise adjustment. Caliber 135 operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour and features regulation screws on the balance wheel and a Breguet overcoil. Lastly, Zenith regulates this COSC-certified chronometer to perform within ±2 seconds per day. It is an impressive movement with an incredible story, and now it powers two stunning new G.F.J. models.

yellow gold Zenith G.F.J. 30.1865.0135/56.C21 head on

The Zenith G.F.J. “Bloodstone”

Let’s move on to the two versions of the G.F.J. The first has a yellow gold case paired with a bloodstone dial. Bloodstone combines green chalcedony with red jasper that contains hematite inclusions resembling blood droplets. But just as with last year’s model, the dial consists of multiple parts. While the center is made of bloodstone, the small seconds sub-dial is made of mother-of-pearl, and the peripheral guilloché sector features a pattern inspired by the brick façade of the Zenith manufacture in Le Locle.

yellow gold Zenith G.F.J. 30.1865.0135/56.C21 dial macro

The applied indexes, the central hands, and the hand for the small seconds are all executed in yellow gold to match the case. A stunning detail is the series of 40 hand-applied yellow gold beads that serve as minute markers. All the yellow gold elements contrast nicely with the beautiful green dial. As with every series of watches featuring natural stone dials, every dial is unique, adding to the romance of owning a special timepiece.

yellow gold Zenith G.F.J. 30.1865.0135/56.C216 on its side with crown up and tantalum 98.1865.0135/21.C205 upright

Additionally, I love how detailed the dial is. The bloodstone is stunning, the brick pattern tells a nice story, and the way the sub-dial is grounded in the chapter ring gives it a solid visual base. Lastly, I adore that Zenith kept the text to a minimum. Under the applied Zenith star is just the brand signature and model name. At 6 o’clock, you will see the “Swiss Made” text, replacing a small yellow gold index.

yellow gold Zenith G.F.J. 30.1865.0135/56.C21 up close

Accessories, availability, and pricing

This special G.F.J., produced in a limited run of 161 pieces, comes with beige nubuck alligator, green alligator, and black calfskin straps. All are fitted with a brick-patterned gold pin buckle with the G.F.J. branding.

yellow gold Zenith G.F.J. 30.1865.0135/56.C21 on gold bracelet

But if you want something truly special, Zenith also offers an optional 18K yellow gold bracelet with a butterfly clasp. It is the cherry on top of this brilliant release, which costs €54,000 / US$51,900 / CHF 48,900 with the three straps. The additional price for the bracelet was not disclosed. Zenith will provide that if you are interested in buying one of these watches.

tantalum Zenith G.F.J. 98.1865.0135/21.C205 head on

Zenith G.F.J. “Black Onyx”

But that’s not where it ends. If you love the G.F.J. but are looking for something that seems a little more understated yet remarkably executed, Zenith has a second option. This is a limited edition of only 20 pieces featuring a tantalum case. As most of you will know, tantalum gives watches heft, and if beautifully finished, the material looks stunning. The polished parts of this special G.F.J. look insanely beautiful, and they accentuate the case’s intricate design.

tantalum Zenith G.F.J. 98.1865.0135/21.C205 flat-lay on white glove

The case houses a similar three-part dial as the gold model. But for this version, Zenith chose a black onyx center paired with a gray mother-of-pearl sub-dial for the seconds. The slight difference in tone brings the dial to life. But it gets even better. The black brick-pattern guilloché sector features 11 baguette-cut diamond indexes. The brilliant thing is that they blend seamlessly into the overall picture, but once you zoom in, you will see they are not just regular hour markers. The 40 hand-applied white gold beads and set of white gold hands finish the look of this extraordinary timepiece in style.

tantalum Zenith G.F.J. 98.1865.0135/21.C205 up close

As mentioned, Zenith will produce only 20 pieces of this exclusive limited edition, each with a blue nubuck alligator strap, a black alligator strap, and a gray calfskin strap, all with the same G.F.J. signature pin buckle in titanium. The price of this tantalum version of the G.F.J. is €82,700 / US$83,400 / CHF 73,900. It will buy you a stunning timepiece that has quickly become one of my favorites from Watches and Wonders 2026. These two new G.F.J. pieces perfectly show the brilliance of the series and what makes Zenith such a special brand. The design, caliber, storytelling, and execution are simply stunning, and that’s why my love for  Zenith runs deep.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
G.F.J.
Reference
30.1865.0135/56.C216 (Bloodstone) / 98.1865.0135/21.C205 (Onyx)
Dial
Green, three-part construction with brick guilloché and applied yellow gold hour and minute markers on the outer ring, bloodstone in the center, and mother-of-pearl small seconds register / Black, three-part construction with brick guilloché and applied white gold hour and minute markers on the outer ring, black onyx in the center, and mother-of-pearl small seconds register
Case Material
18K yellow gold / Tantalum
Case Dimensions
39.15mm (diameter) × 45.75mm (lug-to-lug) × 10.5mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Yellow gold and sapphire crystal, affixed with four screws / Tantalum and sapphire crystal, affixed with four screws
Movement
Zenith 135: manual winding with hacking, 18,000vph frequency, 72-hour power reserve, 22 jewels, COSC-certified chronometer, regulated by Zenith to ±2 seconds per day
Water Resistance
50 meters (5 atm)
Strap
Beige nubuck alligator leather with a yellow gold pin buckle and additional green alligator leather and black calfskin straps included; yellow gold bracelet also available (price on request) / Blue nubuck alligator leather with titanium pin buckle and additional black alligator leather and gray calfskin straps included
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds)
Price
€54,000 / US$51,900 / CHF 48,900 (Bloodstone) | €82,700 / US$83,400 / CHF 73,900 (Onyx)
Special Note(s)
Bloodstone edition limited to 161 pieces, and onyx edition limited to 20 pieces