Silent Sleepers: The Best Watch Releases No One Talks About

Every once in a while, I come across a great watch that makes me think, “Ah, yes, how could I forget about this release?” Multiple watches are released every day. Some get dedicated events, while others are subject to massive hype on social media. Many releases, however, don’t get the attention they deserve right from the get-go. Sometimes the brands simply didn’t put them on their A-lists, or maybe the watches didn’t land with the mainstream audience that well. So, I’m here today to go over some of the silent sleepers I think deserve more praise.

Eventually, this might turn into a series of articles. For now, though, I’ll go over five releases from the past five years that I think deserve more of your attention. I specifically chose watches that are still available in the brands’ catalogs. After all, if a brand discontinues a watch after such a short period, it probably wasn’t that good. All right, let’s take a look at these five underrated watches.

Silent sleepers — Pick #1: Longines Avigation Bigeye

This first one came up during our weekly editorial meeting. We all agreed that the Longines Avigation Bigeye is a great modern reinterpretation of the brand’s heritage chronograph. However, it’s not one of those iconic releases everyone mentions when talking about the best chronographs out there. The thing is, though, that for €3,300, you get a whole lot of automatic chronograph for your money.

The 41mm stainless steel case is fully brushed and features big pushers and a well-proportioned, signed crown. The bezel features a stepped design, and the case back shows an engraving of a military aircraft. Its dial is all about legibility. You get big Arabic numerals and three concentric-grained sub-dials. One of them — the minute counter — is noticeably bigger, hence the Bigeye moniker. Inside is Longines’s L688.5 movement, which runs at 28,800 vph and offers an ample 66-hour power reserve.

In 2021, Longines also released a titanium version of its Avigation Bigeye. That watch features a textured blue fumé dial and offers a ton of value for its €4,200 price. If you’d like to know more, check out Dave’s hands-on article.

Pick #2: Grand Seiko SBGW283

This next one is a watch I’ve been looking at for a long time. Ever since I saw Thomas’s Grand Seiko SBGW231, I knew this model in the brand’s collection would be hard to resist. Its 37mm round case, well-proportioned lugs, and dateless dial with Zaratsu-polished hardware are a joy to look at and wear. Indeed, the eggshell dial color of Thomas’s watch is timeless. However, my heart skipped a beat when I saw the beautifully textured, shiny, light blue dial of the SBGW283.

I completely agreed when Thor said that the “glittering blue surface inspired by the sky during kishun — the very last days of spring — is breathtaking.” Sure, that blue textured dial might be less timeless, but in my eyes, it takes the SBGW to a completely different level. The only thing that bothers me a bit is its hand-wound 9S64 movement. However, looking at that beautiful dial up close while winding the watch in the morning doesn’t sound like a punishment at all. Besides, at €5,200, the SBGW283 is also one of Grand Seiko’s more affordable references.

Silent sleepers — Pick #3: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding

I know the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 has received a lot of criticism since its release. However, every time I see one at an event, I’m impressed. Yes, the octagonal mid-case is a bit of a gimmick, but along with the skeletonized lugs, it gives the Code 11.59 a distinctly modern look without taking it too far into the future. And I can say the same thing about the dial execution. The stamped ripple pattern is something I haven’t seen on any other watch, and although it resembles a classic sunburst, it’s definitely in its own modernized league.

But what most surprises me when I put the AP Code 11.59 on my wrist is how well it wears. It’s evident that Audemars Piguet paid close attention to the ergonomics of these watches. The lugs slope downward quite dramatically, which is why even the 41mm version wears well on my 17cm wrist. Unfortunately, at €26,200 in stainless steel, this isn’t a watch I’ll be able to add to my collection anytime soon. However, if you are in a position to spend that kind of money on your next watch, the AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding is definitely worth your consideration.

Pick #4: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

This next watch came to my attention again during a recent event at the Hermès boutique here in Amsterdam. In general, I think this brand gets overlooked when people talk about watches. I also feel the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is the perfect example of the maison’s ingenuity and originality. It perfectly combines the dreamy way of thinking about time, the unique design language, and high standards in watchmaking.

It all starts with the Arceau’s elegant round case featuring asymmetric lugs and flaring from 35mm on the bottom to 38mm at the top. Both the case and the movement are made in-house — the latter with the addition of a module developed by Chronode. But the star of the show is the dial, which dances around Hermès’s imaginary equestrian world map. The blue 38mm version costs €24,350.

But if that one is a bit too petite, you can also go for the 41mm platinum model, which features a black DLC-coated titanium bezel. This version costs €30,100.

Silent sleepers — Pick #5: Ralph Lauren Vintage 67

Now on to a release that I completely missed last October. It’s not a completely new model, but I do think the new black-dial option gives the Ralph Lauren Vintage 67 a completely different vibe. The original white-dial Vintage 67 was already a favorite of mine, with its 9.1mm-slim case and 40mm diameter. It’s powered by a hand-wound La Joux-Perret caliber 7380 featuring a 90-hour power reserve. Its Côtes de Genève and perlage finishing are visible through the display case back.

But even with the bold black Arabic numerals, the white-dial version can look a bit dressy sometimes. With the new black dial, there’s no longer any confusion. This looks like a proper vintage-inspired sports watch, especially with its faux-continuous lugs. I don’t know about you, but I’d have a very hard time choosing between the two versions. Both of them cost €3,100.

So, there you have it — five releases I think definitely deserve more attention and praise. What do you think of these watches? Or do you have others you immediately think about when talking about silent sleepers? Let me know in the comments below.