Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References Behind Every Great Watch
Drumming up a list of the watch world’s biggest icons is easy. While we can debate what constitutes a true icon, we can probably agree that such watches defined a category and had a lasting impact on the current watch landscape. That’s not the discussion we want to have, though. In this new series of articles, we will highlight the watches that stand in the shadows of the real icons. While they are often appreciated, they will never reach iconic status themselves. That doesn’t mean they don’t have intriguing stories, though. That’s why we want to tell the tales of these shadow icons — the less obvious choices.
Sure, the icons are the icons for good reason. Try one of them, and you will understand why they are so good. It’s often an experience rooted in design, engineering, and brand reputation. But most of all, this label relates to a watch’s history and impact. I can’t remember how many times I’ve seen people put on an iconic watch and be completely in awe. A big part of the admiration is the story behind the watch. There is something special about these iconic watches that you feel and cannot be replicated. But we have heard these stories many times before.
Standing in the shadow of a category
Often, these icons simply came before the watches that we will discuss in this article. The Royal Oak is a great example of that. That watch started the category of luxury stainless steel sports watches. The Nautilus is, of course, part of the same category and wasn’t first. Still, its story tied to Gérald Genta, plus the rich history of Patek Philippe, adds to its grandeur and iconic status. It’s safe to say that these two watches are the icons, while the other watches in the same category stand in their shadows. While defining the category could be an approach for writing this series of articles, we chose a slightly different one.
We will look at various brands’ collections to identify their icons and find watches within them that aren’t always obvious choices, meaning they stand in the shadows of the greats. For example, even if we consider the Royal Oak and Nautilus the icons of their genre, the Vacheron Constantin 222 still has iconic status within the brand’s long history. Consequently, the shadow icon within the brand’s collection would be the Overseas. That watch was inspired by the classic 222, and while it has become a staple in the brand’s catalog, it will never have the same iconic value for Vacheron Constantin as the 222. While most people know the history of the 222, we want to look at the history of the Overseas.
A focus on the less obvious choices
I hope that explains what we are after. What we are not after is a series of articles discussing the supposed iconic status of a watch or a collection of watches. Nor is it about concluding that a derivative design can never be an icon. A great example would be the Submariner and everything that came after. Can those divers not be icons by default? Such questions are interesting, but we won’t get into them in this article. After starting this article, I brought it up as a topic for our Fratello Talks podcast because it is easier to discuss that topic in that format.
For this series of articles, it’s as simple as putting the spotlight on the less obvious choices, or the alternatives to the iconic watches from certain brands, and taking a deep dive into their history. While we can all recount the history of the icons, the shadow icons have intriguing stories of their own. With that explanation out of the way, let’s jump into our first list of shadow icons.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas vs. Historiques 222
We’ll kick things off with a pair of watches I already mentioned. In 2022, Vacheron Constantin introduced the Historiques 222, the modern reissue of the brand’s classic 222 from the 1970s. However, the Overseas had already been a steady offering and in production since 1996. As such, its presence in the brand’s collection long outpaced the production run of the original 222, which ran from 1977 to 1984. Despite this, watch enthusiasts will label the 222 as the true classic. The Overseas was inspired by it, and the 222 was introduced just a year after the Nautilus, linking it to the roots of a category that has become one of the most popular styles in the watch universe. As Lex said in a thought piece in 2022, he believed the 222 rendered the Overseas obsolete after its reintroduction.
I have a special place in my heart for the 222, and I think that Vacheron Constantin did a tremendous job with the Historiques 222. After the initial gold model, the stainless steel version that followed in 2025 quickly became one of my favorite watches currently available from any brand. But over the past couple of years, we have seen a string of new Overseas models that demonstrate the collection’s depth and versatility. Especially this year, one year after the brand’s big celebration, Vacheron showcased the great brilliance of the Overseas. With the stunning platinum Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, the brand introduced a stylish version of its modern sports watch. It even beat the anniversary model of the Nautilus in our Sunday Morning Showdown series.
Putting a spotlight on the evolution of the Overseas
On top of that, we were treated to the impressive Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points, a great follow-up to the much-praised Overseas Dual Time “Everest” from 2021. It pushes the Overseas into even sportier territory. Lastly, the impressive Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models further underscore the significance of the Overseas series as a whole. But will it ever reach the status of the 222 it was inspired by? We know that it won’t. Regardless of which of the two you prefer — and some on the Fratello team prefer the Overseas over the 222 — you can’t debate the difference in status.
Having said that, it does spark the idea of putting a spotlight on the Overseas and examining the lineage dating back to 1996. Over the last three decades, we have seen the Overseas evolve into a highly relevant line for Vacheron Constantin. On top of that, it has become a fan favorite of people who don’t want the obvious choices within the genre. While there are many choices in the modern luxury sports watch category, having an Overseas on your wrist, with that beautiful Vacheron Constantin wordmark on the dial and the Maltese cross proudly placed above it, puts it above many other options. That’s why this is our first pick as a perfect shadow icon.
Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is not just the blueprint of modern dive watches. For a long time, it was also labeled the most famous luxury watch, period. Most of you will be familiar with the history of the Submariner. From the references to the many dial variations to the updates in the caliber, it’s all very well documented. Standing in the shadow of the Submariner’s success is the Sea-Dweller.
The more extreme brother of the Submariner is a favorite in the Fratello offices and firmly takes the #1 spot on my watch wish list. There are many reasons we adore the Sea-Dweller, and we have written multiple articles about it. Robert-Jan explained why he bought one again after selling his first. I explained why it is my perfect GADA watch, and Henry recently explained why it is his ultimate dive watch.
If you know us, you will know that those stories are only about the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600. But as a model series that stands in the shadow of the Submariner, there is much to tell about the Sea-Dweller that is super interesting, from the first prototypes (known as the “Single Red” Sea-Dwellers), which didn’t feature a helium escape valve, to the last 40mm Sea-Dweller ref. 116600, which is a great alternative to the Submariner ref. 116610 with its blocky Super Case.
We all know that the Sea-Dweller will never hold the same iconic status as the Submariner. But simply reading the nicknames of the different Sea-Dwellers makes it worth digging deep into the story of these Rolex professional dive watches. Why wouldn’t you want to know more about the Double Reds, the Great White, or the Triple Six? The Sea-Dweller is another great shadow icon that is worth checking out.
Zenith El Primero A384 vs. El Primero A386
Another perfect example is the Zenith El Primero A384. It will always stand in the shadow of the far more popular El Primero A386. Most people will immediately know which two watches I am talking about, even though both have different names in the current Zenith collection. The first is the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384, and the second is now known as the Zenith Chronomaster Original.
If ever the status of two watches was clearly outlined by a brand, it’s with these two. The A386 is considered the “original,” whereas the A384 is the “revival” watch. I completely understand that choice and don’t have issues with these names at all. For me, they will always be the A384 and A386, two references that were part of the original trio of El Primero models presented in January of 1969 as the first automatic chronographs.
Image: Ticking Time Homme
There is so much to uncover in Zenith’s rich history
It’s easy to understand why people consider the A386 the icon. Its presence is far less divisive than the A384, with its blocky case that oozes ’70s vibes. The A386’s rounder case is easier to love, and the iconic dial design with the tricolor sub-dials is another feature that makes it even more appealing. But if you dive into the history of the A384, you will find many great stories. One of them is Zenith’s choice to create a trio of El Primero models in 1969, with two featuring the same blocky case. Indeed, the history of the A384 cannot be discussed without also focusing on the A385. Did Zenith initially believe the A384 and A385 would become the big hits? It’s a question worth answering.
On top of that, it’s worth unraveling how Zenith struggled to tell the great story of its classic El Primero over time, with some questionable versions of its classics. Lastly, the modern Chronomaster Revival series shows the tremendous power of the A384. As it turns out, it is the perfect canvas for wildly creative variations that showcase the tremendous power of Zenith’s creative team. It makes the A384 another shadow icon worth checking out.
Finding more shadow icons
These are just three examples of what we define as “shadow icons.” There are so many more that we could have picked to illustrate what we mean by the term. Some more examples are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore vs. the Royal Oak, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox vs. the Reverso, and the Panerai Submersible vs. the Radiomir. And there are so many more options worth checking out. That’s why we also want to turn the question to you. What are some watches you would define as shadow icons? Or do you think we should redefine the term? Let us know in the comments section, and if you have suggestions, we are more than happy to hear them!
