It’s hard to believe that Baselworld 2016 occurred 3 months ago, but here we are in June, which is probably enough time to reflect on new releases that have left an impression. Today’s focus is on a series of watches that really impressed me because they were simply so satisfying in their execution and they’re from a brand that we really enjoy here at Fratellowatches. It’s the independent brand from Glashuette and today we’ll look more closely at the Nomos Neomatik lineup.
With the Nomos Neomatik lineup, the brand presented us with 10(!!!) models (some new and some released between Baselworld 2015 and 2016) featuring its completely in-house DUW3001 movement. Nomos claims – and we agree – that, at 3.2mm, it is amongst the thinnest serial production automatics in the industry. As you can see above, it’s also not a microrotor. Naturally, the movement contains the brand’s own swing system that we discussed in a previous review of the beloved Metro. Furthermore, like all Nomos movements, the DUW3001 is beautifully decorated. Because Nomos is so proud of its movements, and why not (?!?!), all of the Neomatiks feature a display back.
Before we get into some of the models shown, it’s important to understand how the Nomos Neomatik line fits into the brand’s range. There’s certainly been some serious expansion in the offerings, so let’s explain. What we saw at Baselworld were, for all intents and purposes, automatic versions of watches that currently exist with Nomos manual movements. Nomos released five Neomatiks with white dials and basically the same watches also with champagne hued dials. The diameters are between 35 and 36mm (aside from the Tetra) for each and in many cases, but not all, there’s a manual wind version in similarly sized dimensions.
When comparing the automatics with the manuals, some key differences are noticeable. First, the Neomatiks all contain a red seconds hand in white dial configuration and the champagne dial versions all have an orange seconds hand or an orange detail. Then, we have the issue of pricing. I’ll talk prices individually, but the rule of thumb is that these automatics are roughly 1,000 Euros more than Nomos’ original most basic alpha manual wind and about 500 Euros more than the swing system/power reserve equipped DUW4301 manuals. So, no, these new automatics aren’t inexpensive but the overall pricing is still very competitive versus the market and remember, they are completely in-house.
All watches, by the way, are water resistant to 30 meters. Ah, and naturally, all watches shown to us were on the brand’s great shell cordovan straps. Now let’s take a look at just a few of the new Neomatiks. As a note, prices shown are for the white/silver dials. Add 80 Euros to the prices shown for the champagne dial versions.
Nomos Neomatik Orion
This was my favorite Nomos Neomatik shown to us. During our fantastic meeting with Nomos, I think I had the Orion on my wrist for most of the time while the others looked on wondering when I would relinquish it. To me, this watch has such simple and great lines with its flowing lugs and it really reminds me of wearing a 1960’s dress watch such as an Omega Constellation or even a Grand Seiko. However, in the case of the Nomos, it feels more robust because of its modern construction. Also, it’s a touch thicker than its manual wind contemporary but not by much and I think that also gives it a touch more wrist presence.
You can see some of the wonderful details like the drilled lugholes, the beautifully finished dial with blue/grey outer numbers, and expertly applied indices. The Orion is also one of the larger pieces at 36mm with a lug width of 18mm. The pricing for this watch is 2680 Euros.
Nomos Neomatik Tetra
This was the Nomos Neomatik that captured most of the headlines due to its new dials that brand calls “more masculine”. Coming at 33mm square with 20mm lugs, the Tetra definitely sports a different case than its round stable mates.
It’s actually my favorite from the reverse side as the round display window looks striking against the square case. Check out the fantastic detail on those lugs and the beautiful cyan blue dial. The Tetra is priced at 2900 Euros in white and 2980 in blue.
Nomos Neomatik Tangente
The Nomos Neomatik Tangente was an attractive, very angular piece shown to us. It has a lot of “Bauhaus” to it in the design and I found the slim, sharp, and drilled, lugs unique.
In fact, Robert-Jan reviewed this exact watch last August. It comes in at 35mm with 18mm lugs, but due to its vertical case sides, it wears a bit larger. The pricing for this model is 2580 Euros.
Nomos Neomatik Minimatik
If I had to venture a guess, the Nomos Neomatik Minimatik will likely be one of the most popular pieces in the line. It has a very approachable, casual design due to its softer, more organic forms. For example, take the hands with their more rounded design and the case itself and it makes for a watch that seems like more of an all-arounder than some of the other models. Also, note the small red dot at 6:00 – a cool detail indeed! At 2770 Euros, the Minmatik isn’t the least expensive of the new watches, but it’s a lovely design. It comes in at 35.5mm with 17mm lugs.
Nomos Neomatik Ludwig
From the head-on view, the Nomos Neomatik Ludwig looks a lot like the aforementioned Tangente, but in real life, the watch features a more rounded bezel, case sides and lugs. With Roman numerals, it definitely presents a more classical look, but the red seconds hand and blue outer track lends a bit of whimsy to an otherwise very stark dial. It also features drilled lug holes for ease of strap changes.
The Ludwig is 36mm in diameter and has 18mm lugs. The price for this is the least expensive of the Neomatiks at 2520 Euros.
Nomos Neomatik Metro
My other favorite Nomos Neomatik had to be the Metro. Of course, I had reviewed a larger manual wind version previously and it was fantastic, so this was not a surprise. Admittedly, I like the larger versions slightly more – this one is 35mm with 17mm of spacing between the wire lugs, but any version of the Metro works for me.
The Neomatik contains all the great details of its larger siblings such as the dotted hour markers, the use of the blue/grey, and those wonderful hands. The Metro is priced at 2880 Euros.
Thoughts on the Nomos Neomatik lineup
Now, after reading through the brief descriptions of the newest Nomos Neomatik models, you’re likely thinking that these sizes are way too small. For certain, these watches will appeal to both male and female – Nomos even spoke to us about the increasing popularity of the brand amongst women buyers. Still, I can’t help but continue to mention that 35-36mm is a perfectly acceptable size for a dressier, non-sports watch and with lighter colored dials, they do look a bit larger in real life than their size would suggest. When it comes to the champagne colored dials, these were definitely not my style versus the white and struck me as a bit more feminine. Still, with the right strap or clothing combination, they’d likely work for the male wrist as well.
With the introduction of the new Nomos Neomatik line, the small brand continues to grow in stature. Firstly, I enjoyed the visit with them very much and found the team full of humor and just downright approachable – that’s not something we see with every brand for sure. Second, their watches ooze quality and look very nice on the wrist. Plus, as much as I am a manual wind curmudgeon, I know that the general market prefers an automatic for practical reasons. These new Neomatiks should definitely attract many new buyers who are looking for something well-designed and unique. Let us know what you think of these new pieces from Nomos!
The Nomos website can be found here with loads of information: http://www.nomos-glashuette.com/