Click here for the pictorial report on the Breguet & Purists Dinner on the 20th of February 2006

Ian Skeller did a very impressive essay on the new woman’s collection from Parmigiani Fleurier.

“Until recently, Parmigiani’s watches were designed exclusively for men. Not that that stopped some women from wearing them; however, for 50% of the planet’s population it certainly limited the brand’s attraction . . . and the most important 50% according to many!”

“Much more important than knowing what you can do is knowing what you can’t do. Michel Parmigiani knew he could create innovative movements and he knew he could design special styles which would appeal to a certain type of man; however, he also knew that designing for the opposite sex was not necessarily his forte. He decided that the best person to design a range for contemporary women was a contemporary woman; he found exactly the right person in talented young designer Carol Vallat.”

Click here to read the complete article…

“Michel Parmigiani explaining the fine details of restoration to international press manager Marina Celliti.”
Photo by Ian Skellern

RogerCP (a TZ regular) wrote a nice review on the Omega DeVille Co-Axial GMT. It is a 18 karat rosé gold version, but that’s not even the argument why I think it is ’special’. The watch is only 35mm in size. That’s smaller than the average men’s modern wrist watch.

Picture by RogerCP

The review is quite in-depth, not only on the movement (caliber 2628, which is based on the famous co-axial movement caliber 2500, which is based on ETA 2892-A2 again. Or did I forget to put the Omega caliber 1120 in there as well?), but also on the case, dial, hands, strap, deployant clasp and last but not least… the GMT watch as such (and links to some other GMT related articles as well).

Anyway, click here for a good read!

And here for some explanation on the GMT feature.

Last week (well, the 17th of february already, but didn’t have much time to make a picture and post something here) my watch arrived. I really had a hard time choosing a new watch… Another Panerai with a black dial, a vintage Submariner (ref.1680) or a new GMT-Master II. I used to have a ref.1675 GMT-Master, but I didn’t want to wear that one on a daily basis. However, the voices in head told me that I really needed a GMT-Master again. So I ordered one at my watch dealer and it didn’t take too long before it arrived!

This Rolex GMT-Master II ref.16710 is a 2006 model (with the new box and no holes in the case anymore).

The best watch according to the Wallpaper* magazine is a Rolex Prince.

“Launched in 1928, the ‘Prince’ was the watch that established Rolex as a timepiece titan. Revolutionary in design and engineering, its elegant rectangular shape allowed space for more reliable movement and separate dials for seconds and hours/minutes (these were known as doctor’s watches because of their accurate pulse-taking). Rolex has updated the classic design of the original with a new rectangular movement, visible through a transparent caseback (a first for Rolex). It also features a stunning guilloche decoration on the dial, which is repeated on the movement. This is a ticker that certainly gets our pulses racing.”

Well, I have to see them yet in stores.. but maybe you can order them already. Prices for a 18kt rose gold model is a mere 6,740 UKP.

In this new series of ‘Watch of the Month’ I will select a watch (from the collection of Horloge Platform Nederland) that is special, limited, ackward, collectible or just nice Like the name of the category already says, I will try to do this monthly..

The first watch I selected is a Movado Elliptica. I noticed it in one of the displays in the watch shop in The Hague and reminded me of the Omega Seamaster Bullhead, with the crown at ‘12′. I also believe Seiko has made a few of these ‘bullhead’ models.

This Movado model is ofcourse an extent of the famous ‘Museum’ watch. So despite the odd shaped case and busy dial, it still has the Movado flavour. The case material is stainless steel, with both polished and brushed elements. The inner work of the watch is a Swiss mechanical automatic movement, modular built-up (ETA with a Dubois Depraz module). The dial shows that this watch features extra timezone functionality (GMT) and has a power reserve indicator. Ofcourse, this watch belongs on a black genuine alligator strap.

One of the questions I asked myself is, who would wear such a watch? The shape and look is quite out spoken and probably does not fit everyone’s taste. This watch will perfectly suit the wrist of a designer, architect or editor of a magazine (like Wallpaper* for example).

Production year of this particular watch is 2005. Watch comes new in box (including all the papers) for 2.950 Euro (list price is 4.060 Euro).

I have posted about Pierre DeRoche watches before and have seen the SplitRock in stainless steel (as pictured below)… however.. today I had the ‘honor’ to check out the rosé gold SplitRock with black dial. This gold SplitRock is a limited edition (only 21 pieces) and just arrived at the -only- Dutch authorised dealer, Horloge Platform Nederland (located in The Hague).

This rather big watch with chronograph functionality has an automatic Dubois Dépraz movement with a 22 kt gold rotor.

“The slightly convex sapphire crystal of the Concentric chronograph reveals the elegance and meticulous decoration of the mechanism. In addition to its new shape, the oscillating weight is decorated with Côtes de Genève, rhodium-plated and engraved with the Pierre DeRoche logo. The circular bridge forming a distinctive crown-shaped motif is decorated with Côtes de Genève and protected by a fine layer of ruthenium chosen for its resistance to oxidation and its high resistance. Moreover, Pierre DeRoche has highlighted the two bridges of the chronograph mechanism by a similar ruthenium-treated decoration. Finally, each movement carries its own number, engraved on the oscillating weight.”

This guy at the Ulysse Nardin Forum left his office early to get himself an IWC Portugieser as a birthday gift.. and as you probably already guessed.. he failed doing so and bought an Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Ludwig instead. Lucky bastard!!

More photos can be found here.

Someone at the Paneristi.com forum asks:

“Do you think it is better to wear PAM outside or inside long sleeves?? i feel so strange..better with the short sleeves, i think..but for people who are working and wearing long sleeves, how?”

Well, to be honest.. I hate short sleeves. Especially in combination with a suit, short sleeves are never an option. So, long sleeves and a Panerai. Although I think a Panerai goes very well with a suit, sleeves might be a problem. Some cuffs just don’t allow it to hide a Panerai. So most of the time, it will look like Nad’s picture below.

Picture by Nad.

Another option, also given as an answer in the forum, is to start wearing tailored shirts. According to the forum, make the cuff that is on the side of your wrist with the Panerai watch, about 0.5 - 1 inch bigger et voilá! Problems solved. Or do you dare to copy Giovanni Agnelli?

Magus Bosse, regular on TimeZone and owner of the Ornatus Mundi site, posted an essay on Minerva watches on TimeZone. And not to forget, Magnus Bosse is moderating the official Blancpain forum.

The first collection (called 1858) of Minerva after their change of management is showed on the TimeZone Minerva Forum.

Below, you’ll see the Minerva Coll. 1858 Cal. 48 White Gold case/grey dial. By clicking here you will find the complete essay by Magnus.

Picture by Magnus Bosse.

Benrus is one of those (vintage) brands that has not being re-invented by investors (yet). Luckily, because in most cases, the results are horrible. Benrus is also a brand that has some very nice time pieces (like the one below or the Sky Chief for example) that is nice to wear/have at a reasonable price.

Michiel van der Arend bought this 38mm Benrus Ultra-Deep diver and allowed me to put it for show here at Fratello!

This Patek Philippe reference 3940 in Platinum is a real beauty, captured by SuitbertW at the Patek Forum. Although these Pateks are quite small (37mm), I feel that I could get used to it.

I am not very into yellow gold either, so platinum or white gold would be a perfect option!

Hi all,

Just a short notice from Ernie Romers @ WatchUseek:

“We are facing a major problem with our database and the tech support is working hard to try and fix them.

Very Sorry for all the inconveniences this causes to you.

Best regards,

Ernie Romers
Watchuseek.com”

So, please keep trying to access WatchUseek!! Ofcourse, it might take some time to get it up and running again…

!Update! - Omega box sold, Omega Seamaster Chronograph sold, only few Panerai straps left!

Not really ofcourse, but I decided to get rid of these two watches because they get no wear at all. Also, I have some Panerai (or other 24mm ‘lugged’ watches) straps for sale. Brand new, never worn and including the pre-Vendome style buckle.

See below… or click here to go directly to my special For Sale page with all this ‘attic’ stuff. That’s also the place where you will find more detailed descriptions and prices!

Watches

This Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. 3753.50, comes with original strap and deployant buckle (latest model, with the pushbuttons) and the original stainless steel bracelet. Complete with box, papers and warrantycard (stamped 17th of January 2004). This is the model with the saphire crystal instead of the Hesalite crystal. Also a saphire crystal on the back, to see the cal.1863 movement.

This Omega Seamaster Chronograph Olympic Edition from 1992 is number 1300 out of 3000. Quartz movement is caliber ….Complete with box, booklets and overhaul service ticket

Also for sale… straps and a Omega wooden watchbox.

Click here to see my For Sale page!!!

At www.r-l-x.de you can order the 2006 Rolex Calendar! Hannes, Michael and Percy made this incredible calendar called ‘Fruits of Passion’ and it is for sale for a mere (Euro) 39,90, excluding shipping.

Below is one of the pictures that didn’t make it to the calendar, but it is still one of the nicest Day-Dates I have ever seen. Period.

You can order it at www.r-l-x.de/calendar.htm.

I know there is a bit much Rolex news/postings here lately, but that’s simply because I am fascinated by this brand ofcourse I will try to ease up a bit and post about other brands as well this week

Small note…

Expect some stuff for sale here as well, as I am cleaning up my ‘attic’ for watches, straps and other watch related things… just need to tidy up a bit here and make room for other/new things. Among them will be two Omega chronographs, a vintage Seamaster, a lot of straps (unused) and watch accessoires. I will make some pictures of all the items ofcourse…

Maurits, regular visitor of the Paneristi Forum bought himself a nice caliber 321 Speedmaster Pro pre-Moon… A nice addition to his already impressive collection of ‘Tool Watches’, as he likes to call them.

Click here for more pictures…

Picture by Maurits Bollen

A WatchUseek visitor by the name of ‘HighStreet’ just got his first Rollie. A GMT-Master II from the year 2000. Love this red/black combo on the GMT-Master II, to me… a II should be this way. The red/blue (a.k.a “Pepsi”) belongs to the ‘I’.

More picture on his watch can be found on the WatchUseek Rolex Forum (which I happen to moderate :-)).

Congrats HighStreet!!

Yesterday, at the Paneristi forum it was scan day. Jacques from The Netherlands showed his Sea-Dweller. Exactly what I was wearing.

The other contributions can be found here.

I just checked the statistics of this blog and noticed that someone Googled on “PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA UNWANTED GIFT”.

First of all, how can that watch be an unwanted gift? Second of all, why did it resulted in a visit to this blog? Third, how can that watch be an unwanted gift?

I know that I am almost alone on this one, but this is really high on my ‘must-have’ list.

Unfortunately, Audemars Piguet knows about prices.
Fortunately, this ref.15300ST is cheaper than a Royal Oak Jumbo.

Photo by Daniel Szeto