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31/3/2006

Basel 2006

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 16:16

Since I am not present at Basel (again), better click here to check the latest…

At least Zenith succeeded in making their watches more ugly then before. Thank you Nataf, for ruining such a nice historic brand. Good job.

Thanks to Jorge Merino for publishing it on TimeZone. All credits go to him.

For the Dutch/Belgian readers, go to www.horlogenieuws.nl for the latest on Basel. Gerard is posting there as much as he can.

His latest news on Rolex might interest you. The new GMT-Master II is there. New dial, new movement.

Photo by Gerard

Hannes at “Das Rolex Forum” posted this presskit photo:

28/3/2006

Laco Navy watches

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 17:53

Today I received an email from Martin Blum, he pointed out that he had bought this very nice watch from Laco. As we continued our email conversation, he sent me two very nice pictures of this Laco on his wrist. Here is one of them:


Photo by Martin Blum

This Laco is 46mm in diameter and is powered by an ETA 2824-2 movement. As you can see, the crown is placed at 12 o’clock to prevent it from sticking into your hand.

Update: Martin mailed me the URL of a very nice vintage Laco fliegeruhr. Click here to check it out.

26/3/2006

Paneristis have been tricked

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 20:08

Panerai and Ferrari. Two Italian brands working together on a new ‘company’ watch for the latter.

Here are the results:

Rattrapante Scuderia

Chronograph Yellow Gold

Paneristis around the world are clearly disappointed and reactions range from “Near-sighted Marketing Disaster”, “Truly Scandalous” to “A sad day for Panerai and the Paneristi”.

Oh well, in my opinion this was just what the marketing machine of Panerai is all about. Making big bucks. As with every watch company… Omega making Schumacher/Olympic/Speedmaster Limiteds, Breitling making Bentley’s watches, JLC making AM watches… Paneristi shouldn’t think Panerai is any different then the rest just because Donati (Panerai CEO) pretends to be listening to them by posting a message on Paneristi.com every once in a while… It is all part of the game ofcourse. If you don’t like it, buy something else… :-)

Sinn 142 ST II

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 10:39

Gerard Nijenbrinks over at Horlogenieuws.nl (Dutch website covering novelties on watches and the watch business) mentions the new Sinn 142.ST-II.

It will be introduced at the coming Basel Fair (30th March) as the successor of the Sinn 142.ST with Lemania 5100 movement. Because the Lemania 5100 is not in production anymore (see earlier posts about this), the 142.ST-II will feature a Dubios-Depraz caliber 2070 chronograph.

As you can see below, the lay-out of the dial remains the same.


Photo by Sinn.de

The official Sinn announcement can be read here.

24/3/2006

Tag Heuer fansites

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 17:45

I just received this email from Tag Heuer:

“In May 2005 TAG Heuer launched the international Web Design Contest to elect the best TAG Heuer fan website. The contestants from Germany,Netherlands, Tokyo and Switzerland, designed some wonderful sites. They demonstrate a high level of creativity and in-depth knowledge of TAG Heuer.
Eighteen fans were short-listed and competed for four prizes: Best Design, Best Content, Best Visibility and the judges’ special prize. TAG Heuer congratulates all the contestants for their impressive designs.
After one month of deliberation, the judging panel led by TAG Heuer’s Worldwide President and CEO Jean-Christophe Babin, Designers and Web Professionals, elected the four winners. “

Best prize for design by Mark Svevar: http://www.passionforprecision.com/

Best prize for content by Frederik De Fruyt: http://www.watchpedia.info

Best prize for visibility by Michael McAuley: http://www.MeAndMyTAG.com

Judge’s special prize for Bertrand Balzano: http://10000th.com


22/3/2006

A mid-week rant…

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 21:28

I am not someone who buys a watch primarily for the movement that is ticking inside. I did that once of twice, but those watches ended-up not being worn. I recall a Bulova Spaceview Accutron, an electronic Omega Constellation and a Sinn 142ST with a Lemania 5100 movement. Although all those watches had nice or at least collectible movements inside, none of them had a design that was fit for me. If I had unlimited financial resources, I would probably still have all of them. But reality is that I only want to buy / keep watches that I can wear. On the other hand, I don’t want to buy watches with a movement that is not ‘good enough’ for my taste. I realise that this requirement is quite subjective, because I don’t have the watch maker skills to judge if a movement is good or not. And some times this requirement that I made up does not even make sense. For instance, I would be very reluctant to buy a Panerai (or any other brand) with a movement based on a valjoux 7750. However, I did buy a Panerai with a Unitas handwound movement. Both movements are not very highly thought of and are considered to be ‘cheap’ by some collectors. However, I still bought this Panerai because I really like the design, dial, originality and history of the watch / brand. Since the price was right and the movement, although it is quite basic, has a nice optical finished and has been given a swanneck regulator, I didn’t have too many problems convincing myself that the inferior considered movement would bother me too much. Maybe I would have done the same if I would have cared for a Panerai watch with a valjoux 7750 based movement inside. Just maybe.

I have found that other collectors or enthusiasts have the same train of thought. Perhaps based on different criteria or brands, but great minds seem to think alike. :-)

There are also a few watches, of which I think they have the best of both worlds. Most of the time, these watches are considered to be classics by a whole bunch of people anyway. Like the Omega Speedmaster Professional. Great timeless and well-though-out design and has a Lemania handwound chronograph movement which is considered to be superior to the valjoux 7750 movement and some of the pigggy backing chronograph movements. Same goes for Rolex. The classic design suits me perfectly, and the movement is considered to be one of the most solid and reliable ones around. Due to the looks of the rotor the movement might look like it has no optical finish at all, this is not the case. A lot of people seem to think so, and a few weeks back a poster on TimeZone referred to this as the TimeZone-myth. Upon which I agree. I have seen the movement without the rotor through via sources (magazines, websites and in real life) and it has at least my sign of approval :-) The list of other watches that have a great combination would get too long to post here, but if you are an avid reader of my blog, you probably are aware of my taste for watches.

On the other hand, there are watches which I really like for its looks, but wouldn’t dare to buy them. As I wrote before, a Panerai based on a valjoux 7750 is already on the edge for me, but a watch that really makes a good example is the IWC Portugieser Chronograph. I really adore the classic chronograph look on this watch, and think the lack of a thick lunette make it a very clean design. However, the valjoux 7750 movement ticking inside is an absolute no-no. I wouldn’t care too much about the valjoux 7750 if the watch was priced on a more realistic level (instead of +/- 5500 Euro), but I would expect at least a bit better finish on this movement. The close-ups of this movement in a German watch magazine (Chronos or Armband Uhren) showed a wire edge on several of the movement parts. In the used market, this watch ranges from 2500 to 3000 euro, it is at least a bit more interesting. But this doesn’t make up a 100% for the sloppy finish.

Maybe, just maybe, one of the best buys is the Omega Seamaster Professional. Original (Gerald Genta, for those who didn’t know) design, solid bracelet, saphire crystal, very nicely finished case and caseback, clear and original wave patterned dial, helium gasvalve as a ‘special’ feature and a common, yet nicely finished movement based on an ETA2892-A2. These movements seem to be real work horses and have been given a nice Omega-touch. Not only optical, but also construction wise (a heavier rotor and an extra jewel have been added). Just for a mere 1600 Euro. Sold mine a few years ago to add some (!) money for a Sea-Dweller which was at least twice as expensive. Twice as good?


Photo by me.

19/3/2006

Seiko Ski Monster

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 16:29

Bas van Dorp emailed me a picture of his Seiko Monster. He wore it during his snowboard trip. As you can see, this Seiko Monster is like the Speedmaster Professional with NASA astronauts, worn on top of the (ski) jacket! The large orange dial makes it very easy to read while being in full action!

Seiko model: SKX781 K3, a.k.a. Seiko Monster, caliber 7S26 (automatic movement with day-date feature). Water resistant to 200 meters (660 ft). Stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm (height: 12mm). Just google on ‘Seiko Monster’ and you will find plenty of online dealers who sell this watch for a very reasonable price. The ski jacket is a Lowe Alpine and the gloves are by Ziener.

Uh oh…

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 12:09

There seem to be some sort of misunderstanding here, between the Heuer sponsoring and his own preference :-)

18/3/2006

Movies for the watch lover

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 18:54

Today I bought the Le Mans DVD, with Steve McQueen. This is the movie where the Heuer Monaco was put on the horological map :-) Heuer even produced a version of the Monaco with the colors (red/white/blue) of his racing suit. A while back I posted about a clothing brand called Vintage 55, who makes ‘replicas’ of his racing clothes.

Anyway, for 10 USD you are the man. You can make your own ’stills’ with this DVD of the Heuer Monaco. Btw, I recall that Steve McQueen was an avid Rolex Explorer wearer. You might want to verify in which movie this is though…

While I am at it anyway, you might want to order this one as well. This is the movie called Winning, where Paul Newman wears his Daytona. Or not. That still seems to be the question. Anyway, since then… Rolex has a vintage Daytona called ‘Paul Newman’ or just ‘PN’ that has an incredible cult status with dito price tag.

John E Brozek (of the famous book on how to identify genuine Rolexes) spoke to Paul Newman and wrote a small essay on it.

“First, let me say that I have viewed Winning on numerous occasions, and while he does wear a stainless steel chronograph in nearly every scene, the watch is never shown clear enough to positively identify the brand or model. Furthermore, the face appears to be silver and the trademark contrasting registers are not identifiable.

After inspecting a number of the promotional movie posters and lobby cards for the film, they too fail to positively identify the watch as a Daytona. Thus, it is unlikely that the general public would confuse it with a Daytona.

When I asked Mr. Newman about these theories, he stated that he was unaware of how his name became attached to the watch, and he didn’t recall even wearing a Daytona in Winning. Furthermore, he stated that his first Daytona, and the one he currently wears, was given to him by his wife in 1972, the same year he started his professional racing career. It is worth mentioning that the aforementioned watch is not a Paul Newman (exotic dial) model at all, but rather appears to be a Daytona (model 6263), with black dial and white registers.”

Read the full article by clicking here!

17/3/2006

SteveG did it again…

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 17:07

..a superb article on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 12.5 ligne movements!

Click here to read the full article!

11/3/2006

Dunhill Wheel Watch

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 18:43

Some time ago, I went through some brochures from Dunhill. Gerard pointed out the Wheel watch. An interesting construction of ‘hiding’ the crown. The case design is inspired by old motors and it is shaped like the evocative metal ’spinners’ often used to attach wire wheels to period sports cars. The crown is hidden by the engine-turned bezel. This systems cleverly protects the crown from knocks. The monolug system looks good and emphasizes the case’s ’spinners’ design.

The watch pictured above is the Wheels watch ‘Petrolhead’ model. 42mm case diameter and an automatic movement (ETA 2824-2 + Dubois-Depraz module for power reserve) with date and power reserve feature. Only 1500 units available. The caseback has this English bulldog with racing hat & goggles engraved.

According to the Armband Uhren 2006 annual catalogue this watch lists for 2645 Euro.

Both pictures used are from the A.Dunhill Ltd website.

10/3/2006

AP Royal Oak Jumbo for sale..

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 18:45

It will be yours for a mere 6900 Euro at the Sales Corner of R-L-X. It is a D-series from the 90s.

Look at the cuffs!

7/3/2006

For the Germans…

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 19:17

In Germany they have a Rolex Forum. Das Rolex Forum. Luckily, I am able to read/understand some German, so I am blessed that I can enjoy Das Rolex Forum. It is the friendliest Rolex Forum on the internet I have ever seen and the knowledge some guys have over there, is just amazing.

So if you are a Rolex collector and not able to read/understand German, I suggest you order some study books or course on CD now!

Have fun! www.r-l-x.de!!


Photo by Percy / JBK

For the Italians..

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 19:07

Alessandro Murru from Sardinia Italy mailed me what my opinion is on the Panerai P2002.

I have to say I like the fact that Panerai is making their own movements (strongly based on JLC’s design). However, I would prefer that they made a handwound base caliber in-house, to start with all the Luminor Base and Luminor Marina 44mm handwound models. The new in-house P2002 is quite expensive and like Alessandro, I don’t like the 8-days indicator on the face. A Panerai face needs to be clean, and the only one that is allowed not too, is the PAM0027 :-)

Anyway, Alessandro also notified me that there is a great Italian watch forum called Orologi & Passioni. Give it a try… (only available in Italian).

5/3/2006

Tokyo Tour Report

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 18:17

A small Tokyo tour photo report at ViaPaneristi by Kiyong, Jino and Ray. Click here for the full report.


Photo by Kiyong.

Looks good :-)

3/3/2006

Bunz Moontime III

Filed under: — Robert-Jan @ 17:15

From Europastar:

The new Bunz Moontime III

“This new model’s ingenious highlight is its fully plastic semi-gold-plated moon. It charmingly rotates around its own axis on the white firmament of the watch face at 12 o’clock to indicate to its owner the current phase of the moon. This is set into motion by an angular drive located above the watch work that gets its strength from a crown gear above the hour tube. But, this extraordinary watch face has even more interesting features: numbers three and nine are artistically curvatured to encase the delicate silvery hour and minute hands on an elegant dark-blue background. They are faithfully driven by a rare Lemania 1932 Swiss watch work or, at your choice, a valuable precision quartz movement. “

I dunno… I guess it is kind of special, but nevertheless even cheesier than this:

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To contact me, mail to robertjan@fratellowatches.com