My fellow Omega addict Mauriche, mailed me a photo of his wonderful Omega Marine Chronometer. This is not the average clunky 1970s Omega watch, this one is quite special actually. The Omega Marine Chronometer features a 2.4Mhz quartz movement that is graded as a ‘Marine Chronometer’. There are similar Omega Megaquartz 2400 watches from that era, but these lack the ‘Marine Chronometer’ wording on the bezel of the watch. The Omega Megaquartz 2400 was introduced in 1973 in both gold and steel versions (reference BA/ST 396.0806) and in 1974, Omega introduced the ‘Marine Chronometer’ model in steel (ST 398.0836) with caliber 1511 and in 1975 (ST 398.0832) with caliber 1516. The 1974 model is limited to 1000 units and the 1975 model to 8000 units, according to this list. Bill Sohne, the Omega specialist, wrote a clarifying article at http://www.chronomaddox.com/omega_megaquartz_2400.html.

Mauriche, owner of the watch as pictured below, is a lucky bastard to have it complete with original Omega manual (Megaquartz 2400 booklet in German), Omega warrantee card, Marine Chronometer certificate of the Besancon University, Marine Chronometer test report by Omega, original box, price tag (3450 Swiss francs), receipt and all spare links for its bracelet. Wow!

He bought it from the first owner, a German gentlemen who bought it in 1976 in Basel.

Related link: http://www.mancini99.freeserve.co.uk/Megaquartz_con.html

A watch company that uses the same e-strategy as Dell computers and Amazon.com? 121TIME.com is the first Swiss Made quality watchmaking company that use this direct sales and customization model. Each watch can be personalized with an engraving of text or a logo in the case back of the watch. Before that, you have to make a choice which type (or as 121TIME put it: “theme“) of wrist watch you like to have, which kind of bezel, dial and hands you want your watch to have, which type of movement you want to have and of course, which type of bracelet. Either stainless steel, rubber, carbon or a number of leather options. However, you can also start from scratch and start by selecting a quartz, quartz chronograph or mechanical movement as a basis for your watch.

Watches start at 239 USD for a quartz model (ladies watches start at 179 USD), selected from the available 121TIME.com themes. Building from scratch with a automatic winding mechanical movement, prices start at 369 USD. The mechanical movement is an ETA 2824-2 which has the following specifications:

- 28800 bph;
- 25 jewels;
- date window at 6 o’clock;
- power reserve of 40 hours;

Watches with this movement come with a display back by default.

Playing around with the 121TIME.com configurator, I clicked together this sporty automatic watch with a ‘Challenger’ case, a brushed 60 minutes diving bezel (raised arabic numerals), guilloche dial with vertical line pattern with classy hands (luminous) and a solid 3-links bracelet. Then I upgraded it with a sapphire crystal (add only 39 usd). For just over 750 USD I would be ready-to-go with a self configured mechanical watches, all up to my own standards.

So, what’s the catch? Well, there is no brick and mortar or any sales peronnel involved. It’s a factory direct price for the buyer. This saves at least a two digit percentage!

And what about the quality of the watch? Is it as good as the website claims it to be? Simon Girardin of 121TIME.com send me a sample of one of their watches to examine more thoroughly. It is one of their Zenturio watches with a nice croco grain leather strap and black chronograph dial.

The packaging of the watch is a small black box with a warranty card, manual and a cushion with a the 121TIME.com watch wrapped around it. 121TIME.com ships their watches safely and discretely packed. The included manual describes how-to operate the watch, setting time and date and how-to use the chronograph function.

The first thing to be noticed is the nice classy looking dial (type ‘Dynamic’) and hour markers. The broad hands with luminous material finishes the watch’s face perfectly. The case of the watch looks and feels solid and is made out of 316L stainless steel. The bezel perfectly integrates in the design of the watch casing. It reminds me a bit of the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster in the goold old days. The crown is being protected against damaging by its shoulders.

Of course, the quartz movement makes sure it keeps perfect time. The quartz movement is an quality ETA G10.711 movement with a chronograph (1/10th of a second) and a date window. A mechanical chronograph is not available (yet). The buckle of the watch is signed ‘121′ and has a nice satinized finish. Of course, just like the watch case, the buckle is made out of 316L stainless steel as well. As you can see on the picture below, there is enough space left to have a nice logo or text engraved by 121TIME.com. An excellent idea for a gift! Also note the 4 screws that keep the case back in place.

The 121TIME watch comes with 2 years of warranty, 30-day return policy and world wide free shipping (FedEx).

Now your turn to do your dream watch!

As I wrote in a post on the 29th of November 2004, involvement of a brand’s CEO is a mighty marketing weapon. Not only Angelo Bonati (CEO Panerai) got the hang of it, also Jean Claude Biver of Hublot seem to know how it works. Hublot, which is present on the TZ forum since may 2005, is responding to a long winded post by a dissappointed customer of the All-Chocolate Hublot Big Bang watch. Forum moderator Mike Margolis (also Sales Director of Hublot for North-America) and Jean Claude Biver (CEO Hublot) give a fair response to fellow TZ visitor and Hublot-fan Ron (a.k.a. WatchRon). The full post by Ron can be read here: http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg&goto=3867474&rid=37687#msg_3867474.

In short, Ron ordered an ‘All-Chocolate’ Hublot Big Bang wrist watch, as pictured below. This watch was introduced during the Basel 2008 expo in Switzerland. As you can see, it is an all-brown Hublot Big Bang (44mm). At least, that’s how it was presented during the Basel fair. On the TZ forum, Ron complains that the watch he got delivered turns out to be not so all-brown.. The chronograph second hand is red and the date disc is white. Both should be brown, according to the prototype that was demonstrated to him. Ron had sent this watch back to Hublot to get the correct brown second hand and date disc wheel. Free of charge.

Both Mike Margolis and Jean Claude Biver react on the message posted by Ron, saying that they are terribly sorry and that it was purely a business decision to send out these not-so-brown watches, because not all parts came in on time at Hublot. Dealers wanted it now, they didn’t care about these details. Right or wrong, up to you… It is clear that JC Biver and his Sales Director of the USA create a lot of respect and goodwill amongst Hublot (Big Bang) adepts by participating actively on TZ.

Note: Mike Margolis used to be the Hublot Forum moderator, this task is now done by AMR_KSA. Thanks for the info Ron.

39 years ago, on July 21st 1969, 2:56 AM (GMT), Neil Armstrong became the first man to set foot on the moon. For us watch freaks, it is nice to know that not Neil Armstrong was the first to set a foot on the moon wearing an Omega Speedmaster Professional but Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin was the first astronaut to wear the Omega Speedmaster Professional on the surface of the moon. The technical debrief in 1969 states that the Neil Armstrong’s watch was left behind in the capsule since the mission timer was out (source: http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/pao/History/alsj/a11/a11.evaprep.html). I assume it is also widely known that Buzz Aldrin’s watch got stolen afterwards, unfortunately.

Late Chuck Maddox did a study on which type of Omega Speedmaster Professional was worn on the moon. And additionally, if it was really the ‘only’ watch worn on the moon, as Omega claims it to be on their Omega Speedmaster Professional case backs. The full article written by Chuck Maddox can be found at http://www.chronomaddox.com/moonmovement.html.

The Apollo 11 NASA astronauts – Armstrong, Aldrin and Collins will be probably know best, but Omega’s answer is the closest ‘we’ can come I guess. Former Omega employee John Diethelm (known for his swift replies with respect to vintage information inquiries) stated several times in his e-mails to Omega collectors/customers that the Speedmaster Professional watches with reference numbers st105.003 (Aldrin), st105.012 (Armstrong) and st145.012 (Collins) with calibre 321 movement was the first watch worn on the moon. I copied the content of such an e-mail from Chuck’s article on the first Moonwatch:

“ * mvt N° xxxxxxxxxx * manual winding chronograph movement of Calibre 321 - 17 jewels * case reference: ST 145.012 - stainless steel * manufactured and delivered to our Agents in Danemark on October 25, 1968.
It is confirmed that the OMEGA Speedmaster chronographs that went to the ” Moon ” were of identical reference as your above watch.”

Part of a double paged 1969 Omega Speedmaster advertizement

I consider this one quite funny, since my own Speedmaster Pro pre-Moon ST145.012 was according to the same Mr Diethelm made in 1967 and delivered to Norway on October 22, 1968. Only a few days in between, and both to scandanavian countries. Were they the last to receive caliber 321 Speedmaster chronographs? As per november 1968, only calibre 861 Speedies left the Omega factory in Bienne.

As for being the ‘only’ watch worn on the moon, as Omega claims, this is proven to be wrong. David Scott wore a Waltham Chronograph on the surface of the moon during the third EVA of the Apollo 15 mission (source: http://www.hq.nasa.gov/alsj/a15/a15.eva2prep.html). The crystal of David’s Speedmaster Professional chronograph popped-off, and he started using his Waltham chronograph as a back-up wrist watch.

David Scott’s training space suit on display in the Air and Space Museum, Washington, DC.

On the earlier Omega Speedmaster case backs, the inscription was ‘The first watch worn on the moon’ which seems to be more spot-on than the current ‘The first and only watch worn on the moon’.

Photo by Chuck Maddox, “First watch worn on the moon” caseback. Made between approx. 1969 and 1973.

Anyhow, if you want to get closest to the real thing, I suggest you start looking for that caliber 321 Speedmaster Professional ref. ST145.012 and buy yourself a NASA Velcro strap from gasgasbones.com. These Speedmaster Professional pre-Moon models, as they are being called, are becoming more and more expensive. Thanks to the Omegamania auction held by Antiquorum in 2007. Prices are going up, also for the later 1970s models with calibre 861 movements.

Photo of my own Speedmaster Professional pre-Moon on a Velcro strap

To wrap things up: I have been wearing my Speedmaster all day to commemorate the moonlanding in 1969. Wearing the watch also reminds me of Chuck Maddox, one of the guys that really got me into the obsession for Omega Speedmasters. I consider myself to be a lucky guy to have known this legendary chronograph collector.

Interesting links:
http://www.chronomaddox.com/
http://www.buzzaldrin.com/
http://www.speedmaster-mission.net/
http://www.old-omegas.com

Interesting book on the subject:

Click here for more titles.

The Atmos clock by Jaeger LeCoultre always has intrigued me. I really love the later models with a moonphase and in rhodium plated steel.

These clocks do not need a power plug or a winding key. Atmos clocks get their energy from temperature changes in the environment. The following explanation is grabbed from the Atmos wikipage, as I couldn’t say it better (in English at least):

“Its power source is a hermetically sealed capsule containing a mixture of gas and liquid ethyl chloride, which expands into an expansion chamber as the temperature rises, compressing a spiral spring; with a fall in temperature the gas condenses and the spring slackens. This motion constantly winds the mainspring. A variation in temperature of only one degree in the range between 15 and 30 degrees Celsius is sufficient for two days’ operation.

In order to run the clock on this small amount of energy, everything inside the Atmos has to work in as friction-free a manner as possible. For timekeeping it uses a torsion pendulum, which consumes less energy than an ordinary pendulum. The torsion pendulum executes only two torsional oscillations per minute, which is 60 times slower that the pendulum in a conventional clock.”

As pictured on Atmos Adam’s website:

A bit of googling learned me that there are quite a number of Atmos collectors and freaks around. However, most Atmos clocks you will encounter on the collectors web pages and on ebay are gold plated. This has probably something to do with its price. The vintage models that are gold plated are very affordable. I have seen them going for 650-800 euro, probably the same range in USD, but importing them to another continent isn’t a good idea, since air-mail isn’t doing them any good. The rhodium plated models however, are much more expensive. I haven’t seen them below 3000 euro and a moonphase complication will add another 2000 euro at least. It would be fun to own one, even gold-plated give the price, but since I would like to place it in our living room, gold-plated is not the way to go It simply doesn’t fit. I guess I will have to keep saving up or get a gold-plated one and keep it in our study.

Note (thanks Hessel): In 2008, the JLC Atmos celebrates its 80th birthday with three limited models. In these 80 years, JLC has manufactured more than 750 000 Atmos clocks. Click here to see a nice SIHH report on the Atmos specials (you need a login code for the WatchProSite!).

Click here for the official Jaeger LeCoultre Atmos pages: http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/la/en/watches/atmos-classique

Click here for a collector’s page on Atmos clocks: http://www.geocities.com/atmosclocks/

Click here for Atmos repairs: http://www.atmosclocks.com/index.html

Photos grabbed from various eBay auctions. The How-it-works description is from atmosadam.com. A great source of information for Atmos-adepts, make sure to visit this website.

As promised (to Martijn, see the comments of the GP post below), I hereby post a few pictures of a watch that I bought a few months ago, from a fellow Dutch collector. It is a Titus Geneve chronograph from the 1940s (ca.1946-1948) with a Landeron 48 handwound movement. It is a 38mm watch, which was quite big for those days, in a 18ct red gold case. The case is very light and has a metal ‘ring’ inside, to make the thin 18kt red gold case a bit of solid. I was told that these watches were quite populair for US ex-soldiers from WWII to bring home, because these were one of the few gold watches allowed for them to import. I am not sure, but I think there were some kind of restrictions for the import of gold items. The Landeron caliber 48 (31mm) is produced between 1937 and 1970, ticks at 18000 beats per hour, has 17 jewels and a power reserve of 44 hours. Another brand from that era which produced quite similar watches was Chronographe Suisse. This brand was brought back to life just recently.

Anyway, I bought this watch because I was eager to try out a red gold (chronograph) watch. I always feel that I am a bit too young (and pale) to wear gold watches, but this one is really fun to wear with a nice shirt or suit. These type of watches can be bought for relatively little money, I think I paid between 250 and 300 euro for this example (including a new Officine Italia Bros strap).

During my ‘research’ on chronographs from the 1940s/1950s, I came across this interesting French site about chronographs. Make sure to visit if you are interested in these vintage beauties as well. http://monsite.wanadoo.fr/chronotictac/page5.html

I took three pictures to satisfy Martijn I hope I was able to capture its ‘modest’ beauty in these pictures. The black ‘aged’ dial with gold printing is really nice IRL, a good picture was hard to take with all these reflections in the plastic crystal.

The watch has a small dent in one of the lugs. Like I wrote above, the material is quite thin and this dent was probably caused by bumping into something or it was dropped on one of the lugs. The crown is in doublé or plaque and a bit too yellowish. Perhaps I will put on a 18ct red gold crown in the future, if I can find one cheap. The watch runs acceptable, but I wouldn’t wear it for days in a row, because the deviation will become too annoying.

The looks of the watch at least convinced me to get myself (or as a present :)) a nice red gold modern chronograph in the far future.

I just posted a blog on watch advertizements over at Watch Freaks! Click here to read it.