The German based R-L-X forum has a number of excellent authors aboard. One of them is Percy, also known by his initials PCS. Percy wrote a great review on three (later on four) Rolex watches that are priced just over 7000 euro in the current Rolex catalogue.

The Cosmograph Daytona is only marginally available. Although the waiting lists aren’t as ridicilous anymore as a few years ago (when you had to watch 6 years to get one, if you could get on the list at all), you still have to wait for one a few months at the authorized dealer (7200 Euro). In the grey circuit, you can get one for approximately 8000 euro. The Sea-Dweller DeepSea has been introduced during the last Basel Fair, and its available already below list price (between 6500 and 7000 euro). The Yacht-Master was introduced in its gold version in 1992, and five years later, in 1997, this watch was presented in rolesium, which is Rolex’s definition for a stainless steel & platinum combination. Although this model lists for 7200 euro, it can be had for 5500 euro (BNIB) in the grey circuit.

Percy does an excellent job on reviewing and analyzing each of these terrific Rolex watches. Because the market prices of these watches actually vary between the mentioned 5500 euro to 8000 euro, he also includes the successor of the proven Rolex GMT-Master II (16710), the GMT-Master IIc (116710). This watch, with its ceramic bezel and magnificent bezel turning system, has a market price of around 5000 Euro (Lists for 5350 Euro).

The review includes superb comparison pictures, like the ones below. Comparing the size and shape of each watch included in this review with eachother.

The picture above perfectly shows how BIG the new Rolex DeepSea Sea-Dweller is, compared to the regular sportsmodel (GMT-Master IIc).

Below, you’ll see that the watchcase of the Yacht-Master comes very close to the one used for the Daytona. Except for the bezel and pushers ofcourse, the shape is very similair. However, if you’ll observe both of these watches from the side, you will notice that the lugs of the Yacht-Master are bend a bit more downwards.

All aspects of these watches are being discussed in detail. The bracelet, clasp, case, functionality and so on.

The article ends with a small summary per watch. Calling the Yacht-Master the ‘most bang for the buck’, if paid for with a fair discount, the Daytona ‘the watch that no-one is able to get, but everyone has one’, the GMT-Master IIc ‘The Perfect One’ and the Deepsea Sea-Dweller ‘the toolwatch in FULL effect’.

Personally, I could go for each of these watches, with the exception of the DeepSea Sea-Dweller. Although my wrists could easily handle such a large watch, it is too clunky for me and I don’t like the too small-ish tapering bracelet. Actually, I went for the Yacht-Master in 2007. I bought a used version from 2004, complete with box and papers in very good condition at Subgmt.com. The hardcore Rolex fans do not seem to like this watch at all, because they don’t consider this to be a tool watch. Probably because of the use of platinum, polished center links and most importantly, the lack of a black dial. Partly, I agree with them. However, I don’t need a tool watch doing deskwork ofcourse. It was meant to be the ultimate luxury Submariner spin-off with its raised numerals on the solid platinum or gold bezel, polished center links and solid platinum dial. The dial really stand-out in the bright sunlight, but might look a bit dull or grey-ish if you are located inside a building with articial light.

Click here for the full article (it is in German, but the picture alone are worth viewing it anyway). Precisionwatches, one of my blog sponsors, has most of the mentioned watch models in stock, make sure to visit him for the actual prices.

All pictures taken by PCS.

The Horological Machine No.3 has been introduced by Maximilian Büsser & Friends. This time, MB&F were able to make their customers choose between two watches. Two watches have been introduced, by the names of Sidewinder and Starcruiser. And when I look at them, I think these names are well chosen. I am still pondering whether these timepieces remind me of Starwars or of one of my favorite childhood cartoons, Transformers (More then meets the eye).

The 304 component movement in these timepieces is a three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor. It has a Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear and ticks at 28,800 bph. The 22k rose gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor can be seen at the picture below.

And now for something completely different… the movie credits:

Concept: Maximilian Büsser/MB&F
Product Design: Eric Giroud – Eric Giroud Design Studio
Technical and Production Management: Serge Kriknoff/MB&F
Movement Development: Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor, Nicolas Stalder/Agenhor
Movement manufacturing: Georges Auer/Mecawatch, Salvatore Ferrarotto/APR Quality
Ceramic ball bearings: Patrice Parietti/MPS
Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas/MB&F, Gilles Dalloz/Agenhor
Case and buckle construction and production: Philippe Marti, Dominique Mainier and Stéphane Lhomme of G.F.Châtelain

Sapphire cones: Sébastien Sangsue and Grégory Esseric/Sebal, Peter Bloesch/Bloesch
Dials: François Bernhard and Denis Parel of Nateber
Hands: Pierre Chillier, Isabelle Chillier and Félix Celetta of Fiedler
Strap: Olivier Purnot/Camille Fournet
Presentation case: Frédéric Legendre/Lekoni, Isabelle Vaudaux/Vaudaux

Communication:

Graphic Design - Alban Thomas and Gérald Moulière of GVA Studio
Product Photography - Maarten van der Ende
Display Architecture - Frédéric Legendre/Lekoni
Portrait Photography - Régis Golay/Federal
Webmasters - Stéphane Balet and Guillaume Schmitz of Sumo Interactive
Texts - Ian Skellern
Project Manager - Estelle Tonelli/MB&F

Visit www.mbandf.com for all the detailed information you didn’t find here. Delivery of the first HM3 pieces will start March/April 2009, and MB&F expects to deliver approximately 25 pieces of each reference over the following 12 months.

I recently saw Quantum of Solace in the movie theatre, where Daniel Craig wears his Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. Although Omega is one of my favorite brands, I think the new watches by Linde Werdelin are better suited for his needs. Let me explain.

The watches by Linde Werdelin are pure luxury sportswatches, but do combine with the latest digital sports instruments. The watch is called the Biformeter and is available in three versions. The Elemental, Two Timer (extra timezone) and the Hard Black DLC. These watches are powered by an ETA 2892 / 2893 automatic mechanical movement which secure reliable and accurate time keeping. The Elemental is only available in 316L graded stainless steel, the Two Timer in 316L graded stainless steel and in 18 carat gold. The Hard Black DLC model is a limited time piece, produced in a serie of 22 watches. The watch case have been blasted with carbon making them second only to diamonds in terms of hardness. The DLC is therefor James Bond’s ultimate watch, useable in extreme environments.

The stainless steel watches are available on a variety of straps, including stainless steel. The DLC and gold models come on a rubber strap. On the Linde Werdelin website you are able to order them in various colors. Leather straps are also available. A smart move by Linde Werdelin to sell these straps through their own website. This is something more brands should do.

So, what’s the digital instrument in the picture there? That’s the Sea Instrument. A digital device for divers that can be attached on top of the Biformeter watch. The Sea Instrument will constantly guide divers, tracking the critical pieces of information needed on any dive using an advanced 3-axis compass, CPU’s and alarm systems. Presenting the data, using strong graphical displays, it features the divers depth, dive time, vital decompression stops, temperature, maximum depth and surface interval times, constantly keeping the user in a real time picture.

Are you more into skiing? No problem. There is also the Land Instrument.

This 40 gram digital masterpiece (equivalent to 8 sheets of A4 paper) is unmatched in the timekeeping category. It easily clips on top of the Biformeter watch to provide protection, guidance and entertainment when needed. Water resistant to 30m, the Land Instrument is timeless with the software programmed in house to allow Linde Werdelin to continually upgrade and improve the functions. The Land Instrument has a number of cool functions : Temperature including frostbite warning alarm, heart rate including calorie count function, chronograph, 3-axis compass with inclination sensor, altimeter with isotherm, barometer and a logbook.

The Sea Instrument is available for 1000 UKP and the Land Instrument is available for 700 UKP. The Biformeter timepieces start at 2490 UKP for the stainless steel Elemental watch.

Shown below, the 18 carat gold Two Timer model. Which is currently sold out, but was available for 10.850 UKP.

Make sure to visit the Linde Werdelin website to check out their online videos on these ultimate tool watches! Information on pricing, technical specifications on the watches and instruments, accessories (straps, adapters, chargers) etc. are also available through their website.

“Sigh. Another watch forum?”. Yes. Although Perpetuelle is more than just a forum on watches. On Perpetuelle you’ll find a nice on-line library containing a lot of watches with their technical specifications. It is like having your Armband Uhren Katalog online. The forum part consists of a number brand forums, but also a generic watch forum, a forum on vintage watches, a diving watch forum, a ladies watch forum and a forum for watch techies. The atmosphere is very refreshing to be honest, at least when you compare it to the big watch portals where reading the disclaimer before you post is mandatory.

Another great feature is that you can fill a virtual watch box with the watches you have or want to have in your collection. This way, people can see which watches you have, which specs they have and what you think of it (by adding a review for each watch). You can also define a ‘wish list’, so if you are looking for that special vintage Universal Genevé tri-compax chronograph or a Breitling Navitimer for example, you can make that clear by putting these watches in your wish list. Other who might know where to find one or even have one, can contact you

The design of Perpetuelle is refreshing. In most cases, ‘designed’ websites have to make sacrifices with respect to useability, but Perpetuelle has done a great job and enables you to have a good ‘overview’ at all times. Have a go and see if they can become your new (or second) online watch home.

Oh yeah, their brand forum includes, besides the Swiss and German brands, also Seiko! Given the fact that Seiko is gaining more and more enthusiasts amongst watch collectors, this might be a good place to have a look at.

In the first weekend of December, I will be visiting the Watch2008 event. A two day watch event, to be held in a castle in Maastricht. A city with a very nice shopping center and lots of nice watch and jewelery stores.

Anyway, one of the exhibitors on the Watch2008 event is Rainer Nienaber, from Bünde/Germany. This watchmaker, born in 1955, created his first wristwatches in 1995. Before that, Nienaber had a repairshop and was primarily occupied with clocks (regulators). Nienaber is a member of the AHCI - the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants. Other members of the AHCI are George Daniels (Co-Axial design), Paul Gerber, Svend Anderson, Franck Muller, FP Journe, Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk) and our own Dutchman, Christiaan van der Klaauw.

Horlogenieuws.nl, a Dutch blog with the latest watch news, had a topic on Nienaber recently. They covered the Digimat watch, a nice rectangular shaped watch with a jump-hour display. Very nice, and limited to 25 pieces. That’s what I call ‘limited’.

After a visit to the Nienaber website, which is a bit of a disappointment really, I was immediately interested when seeiing the Retrograde watches. The disappointment of the website is mainly because it is lacking good pictures, pricing information and specifications on each watch. However, I rather see the Nienaber company putting their effort in creating interesting watches than in their website.

The Retrograde watch comes in several models, but I am discussing this ‘The Unique’ model here. Only 50 pieces per year, featuring a regulator dial with a jumping hour at the top, followed by a retrograde minute hand and a small seconds hand. The stainless steel case has a 41mm diameter and is 10.8mm thick. The dial has an incredible nice pattern and is made out of silver.

Nienaber used a A.Schild S.A. movement, also referred to as A.S. with caliber number 1130. This manual wind movement was produced between 1936 and 1967. This slow-ticker (18000 bp/h) is a 29.4mm movement, with a power reserve of 38 hours.

I am definately going to check Rainer’s watches out in December. The price of this watch is 6300 euro. An up-to-date price list of Nienaber watches can be found here. Since the used movement is not very special and can be found in lower market brands like MarcelloC as well, I will pay close attention to the finish of the movement and the applied modification. Otherwise I think 6300 euro is a lot of money for this watch.

Do you want to see Nienaber’s watches yourself as well? Thanks to Ernie Romers of WatchUseek, one of the Watch2008 partners, I have some entrée cards worth 35 Euro each to give away. Just drop me a line at fratellowatches@gmail.com.